Yeah, that can be an issue if no coolant is flowing. Although service info is calling this an Aux Coolant circulation pump, so I don't know if it's the main water pump for this vehicle, I don't work on these, but the Coolant Circulation Pump looks to be bolted next to the overflow reservoir. There's a picture here of it I can post. It's supposed to be 2 wires, one wire is always grounded, and the Front SAM module controls this pump by applying power, it might be a pulse width modulated signal, that also I'm not sure of. But if the top coolant hose is hot and the lower cold you're definitely not getting circulation. I'll post this picture of the pump, but I'd go through service info some more and see if there is another main pump driven by a timing chain or belt. I'll look further as well.
With this being a 2-wire pump, you can verify it has Ground, you can unplug it and check the resistance of the pump itself and make sure it's not an open circuit inside. And you can check it for power if the first 2 tests are ok. Maybe that's why the fuse blew in the first place. I'll keep looking for more info on this
There are also 2 TBSs for the fan running after the engine is off. The 2nd one looks to be a software update as well, but Id stick to the no coolant flowing issue first and resolve that. Then see what else comes up after.
Okay, it looks like the main water pump is bolted to the timing cover and is driven by an accessory belt, so you could take that off and try spinning the pump by hand, see if you feel any resistance or if the bearing failed and it doesn't turn at all. There are a few bolts into the timing cover and then a few that go through into the engine block. Good thing you noticed the radiator hoses. Hope fully that's all this is, and the CAN bus codes are possibly just more software updates it needs done to those modules setting codes.
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Saturday, November 18th, 2023 AT 9:53 AM