Rattling, clunking noise in front end

Tiny
CAROLANNHAYES
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 FORD ESCAPE
  • 125,000 MILES
This noise is driving us bonkers. When we hit a rough place in the road, the front end rattles or clunks. If we are on a gravel road, the nose is horrible. Sounds like the front end is falling out. We replaced stabilizer links, but no improvement. New struts did not help, either. We do not know what to do. Mechanics are puzzled, and we are ready to sell it, soon. Please advise.
Friday, November 15th, 2013 AT 1:27 AM

11 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,873 POSTS
Lower ball joints are the most common cause but you have to know how to support the car to inspect them. Outer tie rod ends are also common, but they usually do not cause much noise. Ford front-wheel-drive cars already have miserable tire wear, and a worn tie rod will make that even worse.

Here is a guide to help you:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/popping-noise

There is a tool you might be able to borrow or rent from an auto parts store that borrows them called the "chassis ear". It is a set of six microphones, a switch box, and headphones. You clip the microphones to suspect points, then drive around while listening with the headphones. You can move the microphones around to zero in on the source of the noise. Be aware that many mechanics have never seen or even heard of this tool. Suspension and alignment mechanics use it to find rattles, squeaks, and other noises.

A brake caliper can have worn mounting hardware too. Although that can cause a horrendous rattle, it usually is not a serious safety problem. If that is the cause, the noise will stop when you hold light pressure on the brake pedal. Steering and suspension parts cause a dull thud-type of knocking. Anti-sway bar links will cause a metallic banging noise and center bushings usually cause a thumping that is best heard at low speeds. Noise from the center bushings will stop whenever the steering wheel is turned a little to one side. Do not overlook a deteriorated rubber exhaust hanger that is allowing two metal pieces to rub on each other. Loose heat shields will rattle when the holes around the mounting screws corrode away. Bang on the catalytic converters with a rubber hammer to check for a catalyst that is broken free and rattling.

All manufacturers seem to be having more trouble with control arm bushings than in the past. If one is worn, the steering wheel will shift position slightly as the arm shifts position, or the car will steer a little to one side intermittently and you will have to constantly correct the direction of travel. Those bushings also cause a dull thud.

If you can feel the knocking in the floor, suspect a loose rack and pinion mounting bolt, or wear inside the assembly.
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Friday, November 15th, 2013 AT 2:26 AM
Tiny
STANGGID
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I have been in the automotive service industry for thirty eight years and this is the best website I have ever seen! I love 2CarPros!
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Tuesday, November 25th, 2014 AT 9:19 AM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
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I was one of the suspension and alignment specialists at a Sears Auto Center in the 1980's. Every Wednesday we got in a shipment of parts made by Moog, and branded with Sears part numbers. Each shipment included one or two tie rod ends or ball joints for import cars, one or two for Chrysler products, about a half dozen tie rod ends and idler arms for GM rear-wheel-drive cars, and forty outer tie rod ends for Escorts, Tempos, and their Mercury twins. By Saturday we were always sold out of the Ford parts and had to buy them from local auto parts stores. We begged the corporate office to send us more, but forty was all they would allow for a store our size.

A similar trick is to list the cost of maintenance as a fraction of that of their competitors. Oil changes are recommended every 7,500 miles under the "normal service" schedule. However, if you drive on dusty roads, in rain, at slow, city speeds, at highway speeds, etc, you fall under the "severe service" schedule which is the only one anyone can adhere to.

You must also be familiar with Ford's "rubber-bonded socket” design for their outer tie rod ends. No other manufacturer in the world has ever used that disaster. The ball of the joint is dropped into the socket, then molten rubber is poured in to "glue the two parts together. Every single steering maneuver twists that rubber until it tears free and the part fails.

Most DYI are not aware of the damage they can cause when they replace a part with a rubber bushing, such as a lower control arm, and tighten the mounting bolts while the car is jacked up and the suspension is hanging down. Once the car is back down on the wheels, and the suspension moves up to its normal position, those bushings are clamped in a permanent twist. That greatly reduces their life expectancy. Now, compare the number of degrees of rotation that bushing goes through as the car goes up and down on the road, to the number of degrees a tie rod end’s ball and socket goes through. I would suspect that tie rod is going through six to eight times the amount of rotation that design does not hold up.

You know camber is responsible for tire wear and pulling to one side. Every manufacturer includes some means of correcting camber to account for the effects of mildly-sagged suspension, hitting potholes, and other normal occurrences, except Ford. What stroke of genius made them think their little tin box would hold up any better than everyone else’s tin boxes? Those settings are critical and must be set very precisely. That is why we have computers that can read those values to.01 degree of accuracy. Most cars call for a camber setting of 0.00 degrees to around 0.75 degrees. Every alignment specialist rolls his eyes when he sees the 2 7/16 degrees specified for the Escort. He knows that will tear up the tires, and his natural response is to want to fix it, but he cannot. The rear wheels are tipped in a real lot too, but at least there are aftermarket products that allow us to fix that design problem.

Another “fact” that you want to be aware of is you could not get a mileage warranty from most tire stores when those tires were going on a Tempo or Escort. They knew their tires could easily last 40,000 miles on any other car, but not on the Fords. All you could get was a road hazard warranty, and that expired when cords started showing on the outer edges, typically in 13,000 to 15,000 miles.

Of all the Ford classes I attended, no instructor would ever admit there was a problem, and their response to correcting a pull was to “replace worn parts”. I learned from a friend working at a Ford dealership what was the common practice. To correct a pull to the left, that was to break the taper on one or both of the outer tie rod ends, turn the steering system to the right, then re-tighten the tie rod ends! That put the rubber-bonded sockets into a permanent twist when the steering system was straight ahead. They tried to straighten out which meant turning to the right. That was supposed to counteract the left-hand pull. What kind of names would you call me if I recommended someone tie a rubber bungee strap between the body and the steering linkage to correct a pull? Well, that is how those cars were being fixed at the dealerships.

In the 1990's I was the suspension and alignment specialist at a new-car dealership for ten years. We had a few recalls related to suspension parts, but never anything that would lead to a crash or loss of control. A large part of my daily routine was repairing and aligning trade-in cars. One memorable truck was an F-150 that was only a few years old. The rubber-bonded socket on the drag link separated and the guy went into the ditch. The truck was towed to our dealership where he traded it on the spot. I never saw these problems on GM vehicles, unless clunks and rattles were ignored for a really long time. I never saw so many problems on Chrysler products, or imports. It was only the Aerostar's with broken rear coil springs. Only the Escorts and Tempos with worn ball joints and tie rod ends on almost every one we traded in. Only the “F”-series that gave us the really tough twin I-beam suspension that came standard with accelerated and choppy right front tire wear. That could be reduced, but again, only with aftermarket parts. Only Ford that recommended tire pressures that were so mushy as to cause numerous failures, so now the politicians insist we all have to pay for a monitoring system whether we want it or not. Only Fords that did not have grease fittings where they should have been used. At that time Ford was the innovator with puny little rolled-up sheet metal suspension links to hold the rear wheels in place on Tempos. What an embarrassment. And they listed them as the points to hook to when pulling that model out of the ditch. The rear wheels would fold up like airplane landing gear, then you hauled it to the body shop. This is one place where the Escort deserves some credit. Their rear links were a lot beefier than those on the much heavier Tempo. And what genius put the twin I-beam suspension on a Bronco II and Ranger? Look at the camber changes as the suspension goes up and down. Try to get any kind of decent tire wear out of that.

I taught Automotive Technology in a community college for nine years, and as such, had the opportunity to attend a lot of high-level classes, and manufacturer-sponsored classes. One was a two and a half day Moog school in St. Louis, MO. They have a number of display cases showing the parts they developed to address the design flaws of original equipment, and the vast majority of them were for Ford products. That is not because there are more Fords on the road. As much as I do not like GM’s business practices, I have to admit their vehicles do not need a lot of suspension design improvements. Chrysler buys most of their parts from outside suppliers, so if there is an improved design, I suspect they will already have it. NAPA suspension parts are Moog parts with their name on them. If Moog parts are good enough for NASCAR, I think they are okay for your car too.

As I told my students every year, “you are welcome to like any brand of car you want to, just do not tell me yours is better than mine unless you can tell me why”. Well, I just scratched the surface, but now you understand that my comments are indeed supported by facts. I had no preconceived opinions about any car brand until I started working on them and I saw how they were built and designed. Today there is no car of any brand that I would want to own.

Every manufacturer has problems because, after all, they did not ask me first, but a lot of what I shared here comes from listening to other professionals.

Steering or suspension parts on them that is a common failure item that leads to loss of control and crashes. The closest I can come is that Blazers eat upper ball joints, and replacing them every two years is common, but they just make noise. They do not typically come apart. They have had some terrible steering system designs, but they do not lead to loss of control. Why has the Toyota not recall you mentioned been in the news? If there is a safety concern, I would have heard about it from my friends who are still aligning cars.

There is the supporting facts you wanted, but those are not what Carolannhayes asked about, nor are they going to help with the current problem she wanted addressed. This is a conversation between the two of us. You are welcome to add your thoughts too if it helps solve the immediate problem. If you look at what she posted, you will see that this is much more serious than a simple little rattle, and I have to stress that an inspection should be done immediately. There is no way to say that gently when someone’s safety is concerned.
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Tuesday, November 25th, 2014 AT 5:21 PM
Tiny
JEN1977
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  • 3 POSTS
Did you ever get your Ford Escape fixed with ten left front rattle? And what was the cause? I am having the same issue.
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Monday, November 28th, 2016 AT 12:11 AM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,615 POSTS
Hello,

Yes the problem with these cars is the lower ball joints and control arm bushings. Here is a guide to help you see what you are in for when doing the job.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/lower-control-arm-bushing-replacement

Purchase the entire arm its easier to and get both sides. Image (below)

Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Cheers, Ken
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Saturday, June 17th, 2017 AT 7:29 PM
Tiny
FLYBOY165
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 2003 FORD ESCAPE
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 75,000 MILES
2003 Ford Escape six cylinder two wheel drive automatic 75000 miles.

Have a clunking noise under the front end when driving and hitting small bumps. Twenty five MPH and a small bump like hitting a manhole cover is all it takes.

Spent several hours under the car but nothing obvious appears to be wrong. Does not appear to be the exhaust system either as all the hangers are in tact.
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Saturday, June 17th, 2017 AT 7:29 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DALE68
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Check either the sway bar links or the control arm bushings both super common on the Escapes.
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Saturday, June 17th, 2017 AT 7:29 PM (Merged)
Tiny
  • MEMBER
  • 0 POST
  • 2003 FORD ESCAPE
  • 190,000 MILES
Clunking noise from front end replaced struts but clunking noise is still there when I hit small bumps on rough road.
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Saturday, June 17th, 2017 AT 7:29 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,615 POSTS
Hello,

Here is a guide that can help you find the problem and get it fixed.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/popping-noise

Please let us know what happens, we are interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken
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Monday, June 19th, 2017 AT 4:19 PM
Tiny
CHADSKULL
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
It’s your tie rod ends bro. Same thing happened to me and bothered me for over a year until I figured it out.
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Tuesday, January 7th, 2020 AT 12:54 AM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
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Actually, tie rod ends cause the least number of clunking and rattling complaints because road forces act on them less than ball joints, struts, and control arm bushings. You're more likely to feel the clunking in the steering wheel than you are to hear it. With the '80s Escorts and Tempos, it was common to steer the car with the accelerator pedal. The outer tie rod ends commonly wore out at 15,000 miles, then, when accelerating, that wheel would turn toward the center of the car, and it would turn away from the car when slowing down or braking. Those never caused a noise, and by the time you could feel the clunking in the steering wheel, they were real close to separating.

Even the experts become confused as to the cause of a clunk or rattle, until they finish the under-car inspection, and with so many different causes that sound similar, don't assume all cars have the same worn parts based on what you hear or on what you found on your car. Tie rod ends are the last thing I would suspect on anything other than Ford products.

Worn tie rod ends are the easiest parts to identify if the front end is raised up off the ground. Just grab the tire and try to turn it left and right with gentle force. You'll feel the clunking when there's just a little wear, and you'll hear it too when the wear is more severe. Due to the very high number of steering parts failures on Ford products, mainly front-wheel-drive cars, I was in the habit of checking for sloppy tie rod ends on every car I walked past in the shop. I found the least number on import models.

When you feel that clunking at the wheel, you still usually need a helper to do that while you watch underneath to see where that wear is. Inner tie rod ends can become sloppy too, but the outers cause most of the trouble.

If you find both tie rod ends on one side are okay, you can go further and do the same movement on the tire / wheel, but with a lot more force. The steering linkage will act like a fulcrum, and the tire like a lever, to put sideways force on the lower ball joint. If you feel movement that way, that identifies one form a wear in the load-carrying ball joint. It still needs other checks, but this is a fast way of starting those inspections. The car has to be jacked up in a way that lets the suspension hang freely without putting pressure on the ball joint. That usually means jack stands or the arms of the hoist under the frame rails.

I'm happy you found the problem and it is solved, but please don't let noises go for a year. There is too much history of parts separating, leading to loss of control and crashes, and it was not uncommon for that failure to occur within a week of first hearing the noise. Some of those noises are caused by things that aren't a safety concern, such as rattling anti-sway bar links, but you don't want to risk a failure by not knowing the cause of that noise.

Since so many people added their experiences here, it pays to mention a tool called the "Chassis Ear". This is a set of six microphones, a switch box, and head phones. You clip the microphones to suspect parts, then drive around with the head phones on and switching between those mics. This tool is real effective in locating the source of all kinds of noises, but be aware, a lot of mechanics have never seen it or even heard of it. My dealership got one from the manufacturer as a required piece of shop equipment. As the alignment and suspension specialist, I used it more than anyone else, sometimes twice per week. You might be able to find this tool at an auto parts store that rents or borrows tools. Typically they make you buy it, then they give you a full refund when you return it. If you choose to keep a tool, you still return it, then they give you or order you a brand new one.

There's at least three models now of the Chassis Ear. The original one with six wired microphones costs around $200.00 from the guys with the tool trucks that visit each shop once a week. I found these brand new on eBay for just under $100.00. The newer models use all or some wireless microphones, and at least one of those uses a speaker in the switch box instead of head phones.

Here's links to some related articles that might be of some interest:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/jack-up-and-lift-your-car-safely

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/tie-rod-end-replacement

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/popping-noise

There's a lot more dandy articles on this page:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles
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Tuesday, January 7th, 2020 AT 11:19 AM

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