Do you have any instructions/info on how to replace seals for rack and pinion?

Tiny
TERMAXCO
  • MEMBER
  • 1987 CHEVROLET CELEBRITY
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 83,000 MILES
Rack and pinion big leak. How to take it part?
Thanks
Monday, September 13th, 2021 AT 7:29 AM

16 Replies

Tiny
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Hello,

Please see attached for the rack and pinion replacement procedures for your vehicle.

https://www.youtube.com/c/2carpros/featured

Please let me know of any questions.
Thank you.
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Monday, September 13th, 2021 AT 11:56 AM
Tiny
TERMAXCO
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Thank you for replying. Specifically need to know how to replaces seals
and/or how to take rack and pinion apart to get to the seals.

Thank you for your help.
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Wednesday, September 15th, 2021 AT 10:01 AM
Tiny
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I have attached the disassembly and reassembly procedure.
It covers the basics. Let me know if this is closer to what you need.
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Wednesday, September 15th, 2021 AT 10:10 AM
Tiny
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Thanks for the instructions on how to take the 87 Celebrity rack & pinion apart for new seals (rebuilds do not seem to be available).
Quick question: On 1st page of instructions, top of 2nd column #3 remove and install inner tie rod, the instructions say: the inner tie rod is removed and installed by wrenching the flat portions of the tie rod housing per the typical threading. It says to stake both sides of the tie rod housing down on the flat portions of the rack after reinstalling.

On removing the inner tie rod, the factory has staked both sides of the tie rod housing to the rack in a permanent metal stretching and forming manner where they cannot be pried up without tearing and warping the tie rod housing.
The instructions did not mention undoing these stakes to remove tie rod housing; so, Do they have to be undone and reweld and rework the housing or, is there a method to do so without damaging the housing? Or, does the old inner tie rod always have to be replaced? Thanks.
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Friday, September 17th, 2021 AT 7:23 AM
Tiny
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Would it be possible to upload few pictures of the factory tie rod that you have?
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Friday, September 17th, 2021 AT 9:33 AM
Tiny
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I've attached 4 pictures. The last one is the side I pried on to try to get it apart. The 3rd picture is the backside of it. First 2 are just at a distance.
Thanks
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Friday, September 17th, 2021 AT 5:17 PM
Tiny
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Good morning,

If I can jump in here, I would not replace the seals. The seals fail from the shaft moves up and down or damage to the surface of the shaft sliding back and forth.

I would just replace the rack and pinion assembly. I attached the part from Rock Auto. The assembly is only $81.99. It would be money well spent.

Roy
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Monday, September 20th, 2021 AT 4:02 AM
Tiny
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Is it the typical case that a backyard rebuild usually fails to stop a leak even if it only needs new seal(s)?

I don't really want to rebuild, but here's the background reasons for trying to rebuild it myself:

1. After car sat for few years and was driven for a few weeks, the R&P went from no leak to a sudden real bad single spot overnight leak of all fluid; so, assumed dried out seal cracked. And I figured I'd be able to see if it has a rusted shaft or cylinder when get apart.

2. No one seems to have a rebuilt one. Rock Auto said they didn't have one either but is the only one willing to rebuild mine if sent to them. With shipping both ways - looks like it's around $140.00 total (vs. Approximately $20.00 for seal kit and save several weeks time).

However, I was guessing they won't do it for this price if mine is all worn out and they have to replace inner tie rods also due to factory staking, etc.?

Also, In case I do have to rebuild it myself, Will you review the pics and tell me if there is any way to undo the stakes without damaging the inner tie rod housing for reuse. Surely the guys who rebuild these have a way of dealing with these stakes, unless they just replace every housing. Thank you
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Monday, September 20th, 2021 AT 10:48 AM
Tiny
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Did you call and verify that the rack I listed was not available? It showed in stock on my screen.

I would not try and rebuild the rack at all. You do not have the tools to remove and install the seals.

As far as the inner tie rod ends, you can get a universal tie rod remover tool and they will release from the shaft. They are tight due to the lock.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/tie-rod-end-replacement

Roy
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Tuesday, September 21st, 2021 AT 1:49 AM
Tiny
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Yes, I called them and it's not available. I've called multiple places and it's not available anywhere. I'm being told that there are shortages on many car parts.
In repairing the leak in the rack and pinion (1987 Chevrolet Celebrity 2.5L with the regular suspension), I have taken off everything per the instructions you provided regarding removing the pinion from the rack. I removed the pinion retainer C ring, dust cover, and lock nut. However, something still hidden and not done is still holding this particular pinion and preventing it from pressing out as most do at this point. Would you know or have a way to find out what this might be? Thank you.
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Friday, October 1st, 2021 AT 1:08 PM
Tiny
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What part, in particular, are you referring to?

Can you attach a picture?

Roy
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Friday, October 1st, 2021 AT 1:12 PM
Tiny
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It's the pinion shaft and worm gear that connects to the steering shaft and rack and turns the rack from right to left. Per the instructions you sent me. I removed the lock nut off and the retaining ring off, then it says to press off. But it seems to be caught on something inside and won't budge. See images. First one is the pinion housing shaft, and the second image shows each end where I can't get it out.
Thank you
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Saturday, October 2nd, 2021 AT 4:24 PM
Tiny
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Did you follow the instructions that were posted in the beginning? I attached the one sheet you need.

Roy
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Saturday, October 2nd, 2021 AT 5:20 PM
Tiny
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Yes, I followed these directions:

1. Removed the tension adjuster plug and rack bearing and spring.
2. Took pinion top end retainer 'C' ring off and removed rubber dust seal.
3. Took lock nut off bottom threated end while holding top end shaft.
4. Even took off lower bearing retainer ring and both directional fluid lines just in case.
5. Put pinion shaft in press on lower threated end with more than enough pressure to press it out and it still would not budge at all. Tried the press at all rack and pinion positions.
I can move it by hand less than 1/16 inch before it hits something solid each way inside but that could just be loose bearing rollers.

I Watched a video of a similar made one and in video just a couple of hammer hits on the bottom threaded end and the pinion came right out.

Something inside is holding mine? And I don't think the bearings could be that stuck in the housing.
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Tuesday, October 5th, 2021 AT 7:05 PM
Tiny
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Yes, I followed these directions:
1. Removed the tension adjuster plug and rack bearing and spring.
2. Took pinion top end retainer 'C' ring off and removed rubber dust seal.
3. Took lock nut off bottom threated end while holding top end shaft.
4. Even took off lower bearing retainer ring and both directional fluid lines just in case.
5. Put pinion shaft in press on lower threated end with more than enough pressure to press it out and it still would not budge at all. Tried the press at all rack and pinion positions.
I can move it by hand less than 1/16 inch before it hits something solid each way inside but that could just be loose bearing rollers.

Watched a video of a similar made one and in video just a couple of hammer hits on the bottom threaded end and the pinion came right out.

Something inside is holding mine. And I don't think the bearings could be that stuck in the housing.
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Wednesday, October 6th, 2021 AT 1:17 PM
Tiny
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They sure could be. This is why we replace them rather than do a rebuild.

Did you verify from anyone that they can get a rack for you?

Roy
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Thursday, October 7th, 2021 AT 5:07 AM

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