Push Button Start MOD for jeeps

Time flies!

I made that mod in 2007 and took most of the pics then.

A few years later somebody wanted a diagram, I was not as"in tune" with all of the researching and checking and double checking that I was doing "for me" originally.

I did really try to make the requested one right.

Upon looking it over for you, I did try to simplify it, as I looked at it "NOW" it just looked too complicated.

Sooooo, I just re did the whole generic pic of the switches just for you!

Yep, I did put the wire in the wrong spot on the diagram! I got it fixed, verify that!

I have a few more pics I made to keep me straight back then, I thought their poor quality would confuse you so I didn't post 'em.

You can use your switch in any orientation.

To keep you on track as far as the spades go, if you have the toggle moving up and down, on the backside, the 3 on the left go together and the 3 on the right go together. A voltmeter continuity test will prove this.

Let's try the right side 1st. If you put one lead in the center and the other above or below on a terminal, then flip (and hold) the toggle, the one above or below center will show continuity. Move to the other terminal and the toggle the other way. The Left side will work the same. THE LEFT AND RIGHT SIDES ARE NOT CONNECTED!

This switch can be used in various other ways!

Below

1) Combining 2 old pics, to see where I messed up making your diagram.

2) Same pic above, just the full size

3) Same in pic 1, This one is not turned upside down! Not rotated either!

I'm gonna reply below this post so that the Corrected version is all by itself!

Keep me straight, your turn!

The Medic

THIS IS THE RIGHT AND CORRECTED DIAGRAM!

The Medic

That little mess up had me checking and rechecking forever! You know, I still feel unsure!

I think it's right now

The black wire on the Jeep connector plugs into the spade that was in question. On the Jeep connector the 2 yellow wires (together) are on the same side as the black wire

So when you flip it upside down, turn it around, and punt that puppy.

I had to find the "OTHER SIDE" of the 2 yellow wires, that told me which side the black was on.

More flipping and turning in my head! As the Jeep connectors are not shown in the PUSH BUTTON diagram

I arrived at IN THE FINISHED DIAGRAM, Where the 2 YELLOW Jeep Connector wire would hover above the Ignition switch. This would be the black wire's side too.

Sorry, you seem really into it too! Am I right now!

The Medic

What region are you in?

Let's stay updated with the switch building!

Every real Jeep guy needs a '40s Willy!

The Medic

Hey CJ Please start a new question for a separate problem. Don't want to dilute this thread.

Nice work BTW

Best, Ken

Always leaving something out, assuming the other end understands the little stuff!

I'll back up a bit.

The safety switches I used are ON/OFF (2 positions only)

https://www.radioshack.com/products/safety-switch

Notice it has 3 spade terminals. On "mine", 2 terminals are copper colored and the 3rd is sorta silverish.

The 2 copper ones are actually the "switch"

The silver one is simply a ground for the lighted tip of the toggle. If you don't want the lighted tip to shine, you just don't ground it!

Now, I chose to have my 2 switches to light up when "ON", so I grounded them! In the quest for simplicity, I jumped from one to the other and only gave it only one ground.

Here's the good part!

I also JUMPED the brake failure's ground in along with it!

Soooooo, I only had to make one ground connection to the dash/ body.

Now to make this a bit more able to understand!

I coulda just bought 2 Plain Jane ON/ OFF toggles (no bells and whistles) They woulda only had 2 terminals, when turned "ON" the 2 wires would connect together/ when turned OFF, one of 'em would go dead.

So on the 2 terminals (that are switched) IT DOES NOT MATTER WHICH ONE IS HOT OR WHICH ONE TRAVELS TO THE ACCESSORY!

However in this scenario, we have no grounds for lights, We must ground the brake failure ground to "ground" all by itself.

Here's my concern

Did you buy 3 position switches for "IGN" and "ACCs" (as you saw 3 terminals on mine)? Which would be wrong.

Or did you buy 2 position switches (like mine) (lighted?) (w/ 3 terminals)

If you have lighted switches (3 terminals-like mine) Are the switch bodies marked to distinguish the switch terminals from the "light's ground"?

I really don't mean to make this hard! Or hard to read!

Oh Yeah!

Your solder job looks great!

Your Turn

The Medic

Like I said, The wire is really positive as it comes to the switch from the "Hot source", it's also positive as it leaves the switch.

What? That's stupid!

Think of this DC set-up as:

There is no switch at all!

Let's say the wire came from the ign switch (Hot 12V), let's run thru your switch holder (not the switch), make a hard bend in the wire

From that bend, we're going back to the ign switch.

Let's hook on to an accessory wire that you have already soldered in.

Just for giggles, pretend this wire runs the heater fan (other stuff too)

Well right now

You can turn on the heater fan with it's switch, Any time! The only control is the switch on the dash. Anytime!

Let's kinda look at the circuit

Hot 12V (basically from the ign switch connector) The ignition switch is no longer in existence!

The meanders around and goes to the blower motor.

This wire is POSITIVE!

The wire coming out of the blower is NEGATIVE (it gets grounded somewhere)

This is where POS and NEG come into play

Lets go back now

Our GOAL here is to DUPLICATE the ignition switch, just in a different configuration!

So, what we're doing is Copying it's functions with switches.

Remember back there where we made a hard bend in the wire at your switch holder?

Cut the wire.

It's still a positive wire, Now one side is dead. Hook it to the switch. It's now a controllable positive wire!

Now that I have gone thru all of that.

I sorta may know why it's marked POS

DUH!

I'd say they want you to to hook the ALWAYS HOT wire to that POS terminal. Reason? Probably the lighted tip is internal hooked to the other side (what would be the so-called negative side terminal)

Hooking the Always Hot wire to the NEG or "so called wrong side" would result in the lighted tip always staying on never going off!

I would delete all of the ranting I did way above, but it took a while to peck it out, and it's still "correct info".

Bottom line

Out of the old ign switch is "HOT" wherever it goes (a switch) Call that the hot side. Hook it to POS on the switch if it is denoted.

Wherever any switch obtains it's HOT from, we can call this the "Inlet juice" or POS for the sake of the lighted switch. In the case of the security switch, once it's turned on, the Juice leaving it becomes the HOT for the next switch in line

Have I messed your head up really good?

Other info to check out later on

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/jeep-cj7-1985-jeep-cj7-stalls-when-hot

The Medic

On my switch it did not matter which terminal I used for the hot "IN" or the hot "OUT"

On yours, the "+" mark must mean the 12V "IN"

Your "light" may not work if you swapped it to look like mine!

SO,

The circle of confusion you drew, just swap my wires on my switch to the opposite terminals.

You have the theory right!

The "HOTs OUT" of the Security Switch will each go to the "+" (POS) side of your safety switches.

Is this what you needed to know? Yep, ask, better safe than sorry!

The Medic