Will not go in gear when warm and brake feels like it is not releasing

Tiny
AMANDA SPRIGGS
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 GEO PRIZM
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 20,000 MILES
Car will go in gear but when warm does not want to go. Also, brake is still hard like it did not release.
Monday, May 7th, 2018 AT 5:47 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,872 POSTS
Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros. Com. That is an interesting one you are dealing with. You mentioned that it feels like the brakes are still engaged. With that in mind, I would suggest that you safely secure and lift the vehicle when this is happening. Once lifted, turn each wheel to determine if one is locked. If you find one that is a problem, you will need to remove the wheel and inspect the components to determine what is causing the wheel to lock.

Here are the directions from Alldata for removal and replacement of the front brake caliper and brakes. I have also attached pictures for you.

Removal:
Siphon 2/3 of the brake fluid from master cylinder, raise and support vehicle, and remove wheels.
Reinstall two wheel nuts to retain rotor, then remove caliper mounting bolts, Fig. 3.
Remove union nut securing brake hose to caliper and drain fluid into suitable container. If caliper is only being removed for brake pad replacement, do not disconnect brake hose.
Compress piston as needed, then remove caliper. If brake hose remains connected, secure caliper aside to prevent hose from being stretched.
Installation
Seat piston in caliper bore, taking care not to damage piston.
Ensure support plates, Fig. 5, and anti-rattle springs are properly positioned, then mount caliper over rotor onto mounting bracket.
Install caliper mounting bolts and torque bolts to 18 ft. Lbs.
Install brake hose and mounting bolts, using new copper gaskets, then torque bolt to 17 ft. Lbs.
Refill master cylinder and bleed brake system.

If you find the issue to be related to the rear brakes, here are the directions for removal and replacement.

Removal:
Siphon 2/3 of the brake fluid from master cylinder, raise and support vehicle, and remove wheels.
Reinstall two wheel nuts to retain rotor.
Remove union nut securing brake hose to caliper and drain fluid into suitable container.
Remove clip from parking brake and disconnect parking brake cable.
Remove caliper mounting bolt, lift caliper, then remove parking brake pin clip.
While pushing parking brake crank, Fig. 6, remove pin.
Lift caliper and remove from vehicle.
Installation:
Position caliper over mounting bracket, then install mounting bolt and torque to 14 ft. Lbs.
Install parking brake clip.
Install brake hose and union bolt, using new copper gaskets, then torque bolt to 22 ft. Lbs.
Refill master cylinder and bleed brake system.
Adjust parking brake as follows:
Pull upward on parking brake lever several times, then fully release lever.
Depress brake pedal several times to automatically adjust brake.
When properly adjusted, parking brake crank should just contact stopper pin.

The last pictures is of the rear brake system.

Based on your symptoms, you may have a sticking caliper or a bad rubber brake hose. You will see that brake fluid is supplied to the brake caliper via a rubber hose. What happens is over time, the inside of the hose breaks down. The result is that brake fluid can travel one direction (to stop the vehicle) but there is not enough force to release the pressure through the bad hose. Thus, the brake sticks on.

I hope this information is helpful.

Cheers,
Joe
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Monday, May 7th, 2018 AT 8:11 PM
Tiny
AMANDA SPRIGGS
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Will this keep car from driving?
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Tuesday, May 8th, 2018 AT 1:11 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,872 POSTS
If you have a brake locked up, it can.
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Tuesday, May 8th, 2018 AT 6:03 PM

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