Powersteering, yellow warning light with steering wheel and quotation mark

Tiny
BRYCE CLINE
  • MEMBER
  • 2007 MAZDA 3
  • 2.0L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 80,000 MILES
I just installed 2006 Mazda 2.0 engine into my 2007 Mazda 3i 2.0.
I replaced rack and pinion and bled the system and installed a filter in the line in case there was anything foreign in then existing system, I started the car it fired up immediately and the yellow steering wheel light came on, I added more fluid ad I continued bleeding the system, I had the cap off and turned wheel partial one way to other way as the manual specified. I've tried PILKINGTON fuse and negative terminals to reset the computer, I pulled both sides off battery, hit the brake pedal 5 times and waited 15 minutes as another person had done in the past but I got nothing. My power steering doesn't want to work until your moving, turning around there is no assist. If you have any answers that will help I greatly appreciate it.
Monday, June 15th, 2020 AT 1:30 PM

13 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

When you reinstalled the new engine, was the EHPAS (electro hydraulic power assist steering) module reconnected? If it was, do me a favor. Disconnect it and see if there is any difference in the assist.

I attached a pic to help you locate it.

Joe
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Monday, June 15th, 2020 AT 8:34 PM
Tiny
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Hi Joe, thank you.

I did reconnect the module and I just unplugged it to see if there was any difference, but it's the same. I was just going through to double check connections again. I've stood on my head and pushed the brake pedal with the fuses in my hand and waited 15 minutes, lol. I have tried everything to reset and hard reset, but no prevail.
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Tuesday, June 16th, 2020 AT 1:31 PM
Tiny
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Hi,

Sorry to ask this, but I need you to have the computer scanned for diagnostic codes. When I check simply under poor assist, here is what it gives me. See the two pics attached.

_____________________

2007 Mazda 3 L4-2.0L
No.1 Poor Power Steering Assist Electro Hydraulic Power Assist Steering (EHPAS)
Vehicle Steering and Suspension Steering Testing and Inspection Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures No.1 Poor Power Steering Assist Electro Hydraulic Power Assist Steering (EHPAS)
NO.1 POOR POWER STEERING ASSIST ELECTRO HYDRAULIC POWER ASSIST STEERING (EHPAS)
NO.1 POOR POWER STEERING ASSIST [ELECTRO HYDRAULIC POWER ASSIST STEERING (EHPAS)]

No.1 Poor Power Steering Assist [Electro Hydraulic Power Assist Steering (EHPAS)]

Pic 1

Diagnostic procedure

Step 1-Step 3

pic 2

__________________________________________

However, there are several codes that correlate with this system. What I can tell you is that the EHPAS is part of the can system in the vehicle, so anything could have happened. If you look at pics 3 and 4, it shows the wiring schematics and how it's tied into the CAN system. In this case, either you need to have the EHPAS module scanned or better yet, the CAN bus system scanned. Here is a video showing how that is done:

https://youtu.be/InIlnsjOVFA

Do you have access to a scan tool that can interface with the module or scan the CAN bus system?

Let me know.
Joe

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Tuesday, June 16th, 2020 AT 8:33 PM
Tiny
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Thank you for getting back to me. I went to go get a scanner but I was looking for one that could access power steering and the the dash for that yellow warning steering wheel with quotation and be able to scan and clear those. Do I need one that accesses that or what type of scanner? I took a vacuum pump to the hydraulic resevoir and removed all the air I could. I was told by a place it's $129.00 an hour for scanner and them chasing it down. If there's one I can get and save money and doing it myself. If there is let me know please.
I don't know if this helps but I put a new rack and pinion in it when motor was out. And I have another pump I believe is still good, it worked when it was in my 2006 mazda 3. I also have PCM from the 2006 if swapping may help. I also seen something about the steering tilt I believe it's called might need accessed and set back to zero when wheels are straight.
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Wednesday, June 17th, 2020 AT 12:59 AM
Tiny
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As far as the scan tool, one that can read these won't be cheap. I know on Amazon they have CAN scan tools. Have you checked there?

As far as the PCM, leave it alone. The pump is another question. Is the one in the vehicle known to be good?

Joe
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Wednesday, June 17th, 2020 AT 7:25 PM
Tiny
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Hi Joe, I'll look on Amazon. I spoke with a guy who's worked on my wife's previous vehicles before we met, he said $129.00 hour and he said there has been times where a car has taken days. I thought holy shit, how much is it to be in ICU for a day? Lol. The pump I'm unsure, I'm messaged the last owner this evening and waiting. I used a test light and I have power coming into it, I picked up a multi-meter and if you know how I could test it to see if it's the pump/module or somewhere else.
Thank you for getting back too me
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Thursday, June 18th, 2020 AT 12:04 AM
Tiny
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Wow! A bit expensive. I have been digging through things can came across this technical service bulletin (TSB). Since we don't know if the pump is okay, this may be pointing us in the right direction; especially since you find it is getting power. I'm questioning if all the work that was done may have caused dirt or contamination to break loose.

_______________________

Some customers may feel that the steering effort is hard or heavy with power steering malfunction indicator lamp illumination and DTC Cl 099 [ELECTRO HYDRAULIC POWER ASSIST STEERING (EHPAS)] stored in memory. This problem is caused by contamination of the system from such things as corrosion getting inside the power steering line, sticking in the power steering pump, and lowering the revolution speed. The system then goes into a fail safe function.

______________________

Let me know.
Joe
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Thursday, June 18th, 2020 AT 8:08 PM
Tiny
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I put another pump on it today, it's a little better. I had the lines capped off when I was replacing control arms, rue rods, CV axles, rack and pinion and motor. I did have metal particles in it when I drained and installed other pump. Those weren't there when I flushed it right before I installed the motor. I installed a filter on return line.
Everything was new that I replaced.
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Thursday, June 18th, 2020 AT 10:08 PM
Tiny
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I have a feeling that is what has happened. You may want to flush the entire system.
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Friday, June 19th, 2020 AT 8:40 AM
Tiny
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I just picked up a tune flush, figured it would help flush anything out. I will get another filter. You think it was that last pump that caused the metal shavings? The rack is, was new, I'm no mechanic by trade, but that rack was not bad with the engine out and now that it's in. It sure as he'll better not have to come out, I hope not.
Will the light on the dash shut off when I get it all out or will I have to take it in and have it cleared?
Thank you, I appreciate all the help.
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Friday, June 19th, 2020 AT 9:29 AM
Tiny
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Hi,

Give it a try. I don't want you to have to take it out either. As far as what was in it, there is a chance it was from the pump. I hope that takes care of the issue. The light should reset itself once things are working properly again. It make take a bit of time, but should go off.

Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Friday, June 19th, 2020 AT 6:12 PM
Tiny
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Hi Joe,

I got that flushed and put in a little bottle of conditioner and particle protecant, and I guess it will stop leaks too, its for ATF, PSF. Spendy but I figured if any of that might be still in there this. Will help protect and I put that new filter on there. I flushed it the best I could and I took apart the pump but I didn't get into the module so I could remove any of the debris that was possible. I bled it a few times, it is a little better but like you were saying it'll have to operate correctly for a few more miles and then it will shut off. I have it going in for alignment in the morning. Thank you and I'll keep you posted.
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Friday, June 19th, 2020 AT 11:32 PM
Tiny
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Sounds good. Let me know.

Take care,
Joe
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Saturday, June 20th, 2020 AT 9:10 PM

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