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Head Gasket Repair Cost Range

Tiny
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2000 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP, 3.8L V-6 S.C. Blown Head Gasket.

I was just wondering what an average replacement cost range would be for a Head Gasket replacement would be from an auto repair service center would be for the vehicle listed above. Also, how much labor actually goes into fixing the blown gasket?

Thanks in Advance!
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Wednesday, September 12th, 2007 AT 10:00 AM

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Tiny
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2car pro guys = many guys that rock!

What are your symptoms, my guess is an intake manifold problem.

A head gasket job is probably $1500 or better.
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Wednesday, September 12th, 2007 AT 10:16 AM
Tiny
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I have white smoke pouring out the exhaust and then it finally quits after driving it for a little while. I read the code with my pocket scanner and it says Misfire Cylinder 5. I have since then replaced the coils, ignition control modulator, plug wires, and the plugs. When you first start the vehicle the smoke occurs out the exhaust and then it acts like it wants to stall and it doesn't. When you first start taking off during the first gear it runs shuttery and then it's like something catches and you just take off like a bat outta hell until you hit third gear transition in the automatic transmission. So roughly 25-30 MPH it runs fine. I had the transmission serviced at a GM Dealership nearby and they didn't mention anything out of the ordinary. I had an ASE certified mechanic that happens to also be my Uncle look at the transmission and he said it's operating within normal capacities. I'm pretty sure it's a head gasket since I've had one go out on me before in a 93 Mits Eclipse. Yet that Eclipse wouldn't smoke, I think that would have to be b/c it was a 4 cylinder though. This thing smokes so bad that it did some good though. It killed all the mosquitoes outside the house, lol, any further tips would be great.

Thanks!
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Wednesday, September 12th, 2007 AT 8:04 PM
Tiny
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I'm not saying that you may not have a head gasket issue.I just see so few of these compared to the intake manifolds that go bad and have the same symptoms.

These plastic manifolds were a poor design that the pressure of the coolant errodes the manifold.

Understand that driving like this is going to end up in a hydrolic lock as the cylinder will fill up with coolant and we know that you can not compress liquid.

OF course, I'm not an ASE cert. Tech :wink:
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Thursday, September 13th, 2007 AT 5:04 AM
Tiny
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So what did uncle ASE has to say about the mosquito chaser-he should know he's certifed-

I agree with my associate car doctor SW- you're burning coolant, pressurize the system it will come out where its not suppose to.

Coolant Leakage: Sometimes they show up when its cold and sometimes they show when its hot
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Thursday, September 13th, 2007 AT 7:52 AM
Tiny
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It has been sitting for about 2 months now, I haven't driven since I drove it home from Tuffy Auto service center when I had the radiator flushed. The car didn't have this problem until after I took it to those weasels. I paid them $690 for a flush, a wheel bearing replacement, a tie rod, and an alignment. Now the car drives straighter than it did, but, never the less it blew a head gasket. I don't know if it was from the previous owner mixing the green and red anti-freeze, and then they just finished it off. How would I go about finding if they did cause it to blow? And what steps should be taken in correcting their mistake?

Thanks again!
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Thursday, September 13th, 2007 AT 7:56 AM
Tiny
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That's what happens when a deal is As is-its in your hands now-my advised to you is get that coolant out of the engine or its gonna lock up on you and you can forget about the gasket.

Honestly my friend your in heap of trouble here, I feel bad for you. Check with uncle ASE for some pointers and get back with us, we're here 24/7 right now am doing the night watch and be gone the next 1/2 hr.
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Thursday, September 13th, 2007 AT 9:24 AM
Tiny
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I drained the coolant from the radiator and the block of the motor which was no easy task. I also am in the process of draining the oil since it has anti-freeze in it. Now I just don't know what to do next other than let it sit until I can afford to take it to the shop. I would take it back to my Uncle and have him fix it but, his shop is located in Miami, FL and I am in Michigan about 20 Hours drive away and I am low on funds. I do have a buyer for the car though that is wanting to have it fixed and take over the payments on it. After it's fixed they said they would come and take it off my hands. They'll be paying for the repairs and then coming by bus to get the vehicle.
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Thursday, September 13th, 2007 AT 10:50 AM
Tiny
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Mixing the two coolants will only reduce the life of the coolant to the lowest life yield.

The coolant flush may have pushed a weak spot over the edge, I wouldn't hold that against the shop though. Still it needs to be pressure tested and I am still thinking intake problem.

If I were you, I'd pull off the upper intake manifold and you will probably find coolant laying up in there.
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Thursday, September 13th, 2007 AT 11:07 AM
Tiny
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Pulled and drained about 2 quarts from there.

Thanks again!
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Thursday, September 13th, 2007 AT 7:01 PM
Tiny
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Just as a word of caution, It doesn't mean head gaskets are necessarily good, but unlikely. You will need to replace the whole upper intake, not the gasket.
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Thursday, September 13th, 2007 AT 7:07 PM
Tiny
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I've been tearing away at it all day, any ideas how to remove a rounded off bolt the poor man's way? LoL I guess they don't call them torque wrenches for nothing ;)

ETC: I will take the Heads into the shop to be milled smooth as a sheet of ice in the morning.
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Thursday, September 13th, 2007 AT 7:11 PM
Tiny
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You animal!

Speaking of torque wrenches there is a specific pattern to tighten the bolts as well as torques specs. You best follow them. IF you need anything, just ask.

A rounded bolt is something you don't repeat too often. Various methods I have used is to take the next smaller socket and pound it on and pray (and I'm not religious). Using a cutting wheel, carve it down when you can't pound on a socket. Vise grips.

Depending on the situation, the head can be cutoff, the part removed exposing the bolt shank and vise grip it off from there. Using heat sometimes helps.
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Thursday, September 13th, 2007 AT 7:41 PM
Tiny
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Just called it quits for the night, I pulled the heads off "Finally!" YEAH! The last bolt in the head was so rounded off I used the father-in-laws Sawzall to cut it and shank it out, lol. I guess whatever works lol, man I'm tired, gonna be a sore morning tomorrow.
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Thursday, September 13th, 2007 AT 9:22 PM
Tiny
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You're doin great, satisfaction is a cool thing. So how much labor goes into a head gasket job anyways :lol:

Are you good on the specs and sequences?

Get a good look at the upper intake too, don't wanna do this twice.
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Friday, September 14th, 2007 AT 6:10 AM
Tiny
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Not too sure what you mean by specs and sequences. Unless your talking about compression ratio of the manifolds and firing order lol, or, your talking about the Specs for having the head milled and magna fluxed.

" So how much labor goes into a head gasket job anyways "

|

More than I ever want to do again, lmao, rofl.

Thanks Again for Your Expertise!
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Friday, September 14th, 2007 AT 7:24 AM
Tiny
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The cylinder head bolt and intake manifold bolts for sure have to be tightened in very specific pattern and to certain tightening specs. I haven't looked but many you need to tight down to one spec say 50 ft pounds, then re-tightend an additional 130 degress. And thenthen the center bolts only again another 30 degrees. All in a particular order. This is important.

YOU MUST REPLACE THE HEAD BOLTS.

They are torque to yield and will not re-stretch.
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Friday, September 14th, 2007 AT 7:39 AM
Tiny
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I'm also boring the heads out a little wider to allow more flow to the cylinders and cutting the gasket to fit to adjusted head diameter. I'm having the heads milled down 10/300. So the Specs you gave should still work right?

Thank You So Much!
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Friday, September 14th, 2007 AT 11:00 AM
Tiny
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I haven't overbored so I can't help there, but the specs will still hold true.
For $10 you can get a ton of info:
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/mitchell1eautorepair-car-repair-manuals

A donation here wouldn't hurt either. :mrgreen:

Anyways, here is what I have been referring to:


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/30961_gp_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/30961_gp1_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/30961_gp3_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/30961_gp2_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/30961_gp4_1.jpg



The numbers in parentheses are Newton-Meters, the numbers preceeding are in Foot- pounds.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/30961_mitchel_14.jpg

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Saturday, September 15th, 2007 AT 7:18 AM
Tiny
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Job is Done, car is finished and runs better than new, of course there is a break-in period but, I just can't wait for that to end so I can get it back on the track and rip it down the lines.

Thanks for all your help, I will send a donation in here in a few seconds, cause I will need your help in diagnosing my 1993 Z34, I will post that in the Chevy section :D
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Monday, September 17th, 2007 AT 7:13 PM
Tiny
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Congrats to a job well done. Thanks for the donation!
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Monday, September 17th, 2007 AT 7:21 PM

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