Piston ring end gap Hypereutectic Pistons needed?

Tiny
HD1200
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 5.3L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 2,300,000 MILES
I’m rebuilding a 2003 Chevy Silverado 5.3. I need to know what is the correct end gaps for Hypereutectic pistons. It has stock bores and basic use and some towing RV. Gap for 1 2 3 set of rings. I’m finding all kinds of different information online.

I saw this one place.

.018 top
.022 second
.015 min third

Would this work?





Thanks
Sunday, March 10th, 2024 AT 7:20 AM

5 Replies

Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,480 POSTS
Being this sounds like a mild engine there are some easy math that works for ring gaps. For the top and second ring in a street engine ring you multiply.004 by the cylinder bore.
For the oil rings you just be sure to have.015 minimum as they don't get as hot as the top two rings and don't expand as much.
In the case of the 5.3 the bore is 3.780 So 3.78 X.004 =.015" ring gap for the top two rings
So, for all of yours a.015 gap will be fine. Now if you were building a higher performance engine with a turbo or supercharger you would use slightly different numbers because they generate more heat in the chamber and the rings expand more due to the higher temperatures. Now if you are buying the rings to fit a stock bore and are not using a file to fit ring, it is likely that they will be set to that number out of the box.
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Sunday, March 10th, 2024 AT 1:13 PM
Tiny
HD1200
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Okay, thanks. So, that math is correct for Hypereutectic Pistons?
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Sunday, March 10th, 2024 AT 1:21 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
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Piston material doesn't matter much for ring gap. The idea behind the hypereutectic piston is that the allow the piston is made from expands less from the heat and can run tighter bore clearance than a common cast or forged piston. They are overkill for a normal street engine though because the same properties that make them suited for race use also means that unlike a cast or forged pistons, they don't expand to fill the bore properly unless they are run hard, so they do heat up. That means you get more piston rattle because they don't expand, and you tend to have more blowby as well for the same reason. I won't use them on a street engine build because of the downsides. Instead, a stock or mild build gets stock type cast, if it's going to be a high output street/strip style engine it will get forged pistons. If it's an all-out fire breather with a good cam, tune, turbo or supercharger I might move to the high silicone content and heat resistance of a HUP piston.
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Sunday, March 10th, 2024 AT 3:25 PM
Tiny
HD1200
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Got it. Thanks so much for explanation.
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Sunday, March 10th, 2024 AT 4:05 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,480 POSTS
No problem. We are here to help. Come back any time.
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Sunday, March 10th, 2024 AT 4:30 PM

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