On that truck it is located under the truck about 2 feet forward of the tires. It will have the front cable coming into the front side and then the two rear cables going out the back side of the T assembly. However you don't want to adjust that cable until you have adjusted or at least verified that the rear shoes are adjusted out properly before you adjust it. This is because of the way the system works you can adjust the parking brake out and if the automatic brake adjuster is frozen (very common) the wheel cylinder can start to come apart because of the extra travel the internal pistons have to go.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-rear-brake-shoes-and-drums
Will show you most of that process.
Adjustment of them is as follows
Remove the knockout plugs (1) in the backing plate.
Tighten the adjusting screw inside until the wheel can just barely be turned by hand. The brake lining drag should be equal at both wheels.
Loosen the adjusting screw until the tires turn freely (about 20 clicks)
Important: The brake linings should not drag after backing off the adjusting screw 12 notches.
Install an adjusting hole cover in the backing plate.
Check the parking brake adjustment.
Block the front wheels.
Raise the rear axle and support the rear axle with safety stands.
Loosen the equalizer nut. May need penetrant or heat to get it loose if you live in an area with rust.
Fully release the park brake pedal.
Tighten the equalizer nut until the rear wheels will not rotate without excessive force in a forward direction.
Loosen the equalizer nut until there is little or no drag when the rear wheels are rotated in a forward direction, but the tires will not rotate when you apply the pedal about 1-2 inches.
Lower the vehicle and remove the blocks.
Test the parking brakes by starting the engine, placing the transmission in gear. With the parking brake on, the vehicle should not move without excessive throttle.
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Tuesday, February 23rd, 2021 AT 1:23 PM
