Code P1655, no start

Hi,

The code indicates an open in the SEAF line between the ECM and TCM control modules. Is the wire you checked for continuity green with a blue tracer?

If there is no continuity when testing the wire end to end, there is an open. I have seen the actual wire under the insulator break, and it isn't noticeable because it is covered by the insulation.

Try this. When testing for continuity, move the wire around to see if anything changes. Also, you may want to consider replacing the wire itself. I'm not sure what you mean by how far back these terminal wires go. Please explain.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below. They are the wiring schematic. I have a feeling you already have it but thought I would add it as a reference in the event you don't.

Well, I got battery voltage between C30 and B18, but only when using a jumper wire. I ended up replacing the TCM. I got the car to start, no check engine light, but the shifter will not move out of park. I have to use the manual release to move the lever to a gear, and every gear shows up on the dash. So, the computer knows the transmission gear positions and it goes into every gear and moves. When using the manual release method, it kind of slams the transmission into Reverse/Drive but Reverse is worse. So, this is my next problem, getting the lever to move when I press the brake in. Brake lights do come on.

Hi,

There is a relay and fuses to check. If you look at the attached pics below, they are the wiring schematic for the shift interlock.

I highlighted two fuses and the relay. Check to make sure the fuses are good first. In addition to checking the fuses, confirm there is power to and from them. Here is a link you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

If that checks good, then go to the relay and check it. Here is a link that explains how to test a relay:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Let me know what you find or if you have questions.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

Fuse 14 was blown and fuse 18 was fine. I replaced fuse 14 and the problem is now as follows:

Check engine light came back on, showing stored codes P1655 and a P-code related to O2 sensor heater circuit. I cleared the codes and immediately the O2 sensor code came back, but not P1655. The gear positions are no longer illuminated. The car will go into gear but once back in park it will stay locked until you restart the car. Also, I can pull the fuse and replace it while it is running, and it will let me bring the lever out of park again. I did not test the relay because I didn't know exactly where it would be, "under center console" is kind of general.

It's odd you lost the gear indicator light when the fuse was replaced. As far as the relay, I attached a pic below showing it. (Pic 1)

The two remaining pictures are the directions for testing a 5-pin relay.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

See pics below.

What's the procedure to remove the center console pieces? It looks pretty brittle.

When connected i have no continuity between terminal 1 and 2, and disconnected i can get .10 ohms between terminal 2 and 4.

Hi,

When you checked for continuity between 1 and 2, did you have a power source and ground between 3 and 5?

As far as the resistance, 10 ohms seems high for the short distance the power travels. If you have a different relay that is the same type, switch them.

Let me know.

Joe

Between 1 and 2 I probed the relay with it plugged in, through the back of the connector. I don't have another relay, and actually I can't find any relay like this one anywhere.

Hi,

Normally, the resistance across the electromagnetic coil pins (3 and 5) should be between 50 and 100 ohms. Based on the 10 ohms found, it likely isn't energizing enough to close the switched side.

Do me a favor. Take a few pics of the relay you have and let me do some digging. Also, if by any chance there is a part number, let me know what it is as well as the brand (likely still Honda OEM).

Let me know.

Joe

I attached some pictures below. Part number is a Denso 058700-4431.

I put the relay back and now I can hear it click with my stethoscope when I turn the key over, and again with every time the brake pedal is pressed. And now the gear shift will move like it should without locking in Park. And the gear selector lights on the dash work again. So, looks like this relay was sticking internally, right? I guess we should still be looking for a replacement.

Hi,

With the resistance you indicated, my first suspect is the relay itself. I tried looking through all my usual places for a fuse and totally understand what you mean. You may need to contact a Honda dealer to see if it is something they can get you.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

According to the relay diagram on the Honda website it looks like the OEM part is 39799-S30-003, I ordered it so let's see what happens.

Hi,

Thanks for the update. The part number may supersede the number I have, so anything is possible. I hope it is correct.

Let me know how things turn out for you.

Take care,

Joe