P0175/P0306 codes

Tiny
GINALANGSTON1
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 FORD F-150
  • 4.2L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 236,000 MILES
I don't even know where to begin. First off I brought my truck into the shop to have them do a complete engine flush as when I replaced a leaking freeze plug I noticed a lot of rusty corrosion inside the motor. Well upon leaving the shop and paying them $180.00 for the 2 minute flush, my truck ran extremely worse leaving there and when I got home I checked the coolant reservoir and it green. However, the shop "champs auto" said they replaced it with gold antifreeze.
Question #1. Can you mix gold with green antifreeze (my thoughts are no), and if not, what damages can all be done on my truck from this?
Because my truck has been running worse and worse after that and leaking bright green antifreeze.

Then later I replaced fuel filter, truck ran pretty good then brought it in and had new fuel pump put in, now running like crap again. I put in new spark plugs, wires and even a new coil pack and to fix my puddles of green, I had the water pump replaced, now I am getting codes again, a p0175 and p0306.

Checked fuel pressure. Key on, engine off it would barely go to 10 then sometimes to 30 psi. Engine running no change, turn engine off and goes to 40 psi. Sometimes I wouldn't even get to the 10. The highest it would ever read would be the 40 psi and that was only after shutting it down and taking out key. ?
Question #2.
How does my truck start right up every time with no fuel pressure.

Question #3
What is my engine compression supposed to read?
After compression test on cylinders, those read like this:
Spark plug #1 165
#2 165 #3 160 #4 170 #5 180 #6 175.
Is that okay compression or what is going on with my motor, it is barely wanting to keep running anymore.

Could it be due to antifreeze mixed together or what?

Please help me figure this out. It was running great, I take it in for a coolant flush and put so much money into it and it is only getting worse instead of better.
Wednesday, August 7th, 2019 AT 5:28 PM

20 Replies

Tiny
BMDOUBLE
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,139 POSTS
Not good to mix green with gold, corrosion will occur. Residual fuel in the rail will help a vehicle start up with 10 psi, some vehicles it will have an extended crank and some will fire right up, strange but true. Ford does not give a spec on compression, just an "acceptable range and from my experience yours is in range, but bank 2 ( 4, 5, 6) seem a little higher which could be due to fluid being in the cylinder i.E. Oil, fuel, coolant. But what I want to focus on is the P0175, P0306 bank 2 rich, cylinder 6 misfire. Possibilities and things that I've seen in my 27 years at Ford are : injector, restricted catalytic converter. What you can do is swap the #6 injector with #1 injector, clear the keep alive memory with scanner or unplug battery for 3 minutes, road test several times until the check engine light comes on and see if the code moved to #1 ( P0301).
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Thursday, August 8th, 2019 AT 3:09 PM
Tiny
GINALANGSTON1
  • MEMBER
  • 65 POSTS
  • 2000 FORD F-150
  • 4.2L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 236,000 MILES
Thanks for reply, So in order to switch the #6 fuel injector with the #1 is to remove the Plenum right? That is the one thing I didn't want to have to do. But okay I will work on that and get back to you with outcome. But I also wanted to mention that while removing the Spark plugs to do the compression check not only were they all Extremely hard to remove where I had to use A lot of penetrating oil and even a pry bar on #3 but the #6 spark plug was very dirty and fouled so I had to replace it with the old one. What would cause it to get so bad when they were all just recently replaced with new ones and I did not put them in tight at all.
And do you think that could be the problem and not the Fuel injector for the p0306 codes or no?
Also when the guy replaced my Water pump he also had to Bypass my Heater core (which both codes showed up a few days after that) and when doing so, instead of cutting both hoses and adding in a curved bypass hose he just disconnected the one long hose then cut the other one and bent it over where it looks to me like if it got hot enough it would be restricted. Do you think that could be any cause of my problems> It is not over heating however.
Also as far as the Fuel Injectors, I know that on Bank 2 my Spark plugs go from 4-5-6, but up on the Coil pack the wires go 5-6-4 so what how do my fuel injectors go? The same as the coil pack or the spark plugs?
The middle injector s electrical connection is loose and comes off easy, could the problem be that as well? Waiting for your reply. Thanks again.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Friday, August 9th, 2019 AT 5:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GINALANGSTON1
  • MEMBER
  • 65 POSTS
  • 2000 FORD F-150
  • 4.2L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 236,000 MILES
Thanks for reply, So in order to switch the #6 fuel injector with the #1 is to remove the Plenium right? That is the one thing I didn't want to have to do. But okay I will work on that and get back to you with outcome. But I also wanted to mention that while removing the Spark plugs to do the Compression check not only were they all Extremely hard to remove where I had to use A lot of penetrating oil and even a prybar on #3 but the #6 spark plug was very dirty and fouled so I had to replace it with the old one. What would cause it to get so bad when they were all just recently replaced with new ones and I did not put them in tight at all.?
And do you think that could be the problem and not the Fuel injector for the p0306 codes or no?
Also when the guy replaced my Waterpump he also had to Bypass my Heater core (which both codes showed up a few days after that) and when doing so, instead of cutting both hoses and adding in a curved bypass hose he just disconnected the one long hose then cut the other one and bent it over where it looks to me like if it got hot enough it would be restricted. Do you think that could be any cause of my problems> It is not over heating however.
Also as far as the Fuel Injectors, I know that on Bank 2 my Spark plugs go from 4-5-6, but up on the Coil pack the wires go 5-6-4 so what how do my fuel injectors go? The same as the coil pack or the spark plugs?
The middle injector s electrical connection is loose and comes off easy, could the problem be that as well? Waiting for your reply. Thanks again.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 9th, 2019 AT 5:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GINALANGSTON1
  • MEMBER
  • 65 POSTS
  • 2000 FORD F-150
  • 4.2L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • 233,000 MILES
Hi guys. I am getting theOBD II CODE. P0171 with AFreeze Frame reading of the following
DTC FRZF. P0171
FUEL SYS 1. CL
FUEL SYS. 2. ---
LOAD_PCT (%) 53.7
ECT(*C) 93
SHRTFT1. (%) 0.0
LONGFT 1. 10.9
SHRTFT 2 (%) -2.3
LONGFT 2. -11.7
RPM. 1090
VSS. 1

With LIVE DATA READING

DTC CNT. 2
FUEL SYS 1. OL
Fuel sys 2.
Load PCT. 0.0
ECT. 96
SHRT FT1. 43.8
LONGFT. 1. 0.0
SHRT FT. 2. 43.8
LONGFT. 2. 0.0
RPM. 0

COMPLETE DATA

VSS. 0
SPARKADV. 0.0
IAT. 46
MAF. 0.10
TP. 19.6
OS2LOC. B1S12, B2S12
02B1S1 (V) 0.0005

_
Can you please. Tell me what that means and what you think I need to do first to fix it? The truck has a lot of miles on it I know, but has been well cared for. Please Help!
Thank you.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 9th, 2019 AT 5:45 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good afternoon.

The long term trim reading is what set the code. It is at 10.9. It should be lower at about 7.

Possible causes:

1. Vacuum leak.

2. Mass air flow sensor.

3. Low fuel pressure.

4. EGR valve partially open.

5. PCV valve not seating.

All these need to be checked to be sure no failure is found in each area.

Roy
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 9th, 2019 AT 5:45 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GINALANGSTON1
  • MEMBER
  • 65 POSTS
Thanks for Reply. Now I am not sure I mentioned this before, but my truck does start up and run alright every, time. Just high idle and hesitation at take off after stop, and a bit noisy, and eats a lot of gas!

Prior to getting the last OBDII readings I showed you this is what was done to truck (Kingcab).

Replaced PCV valve, Replaced the O2s bank2 #1(cleared that code), replaced the IAC solenoid (both which came from junk yard). Cleaned MAF sensor (with MAF cleaner). Oil change, and had the passenger side Idler Control arm replaced.

Now since that reading. All what has been done:

Checked for vacuum leaks by spraying starter fluid and carburetor cleaner all over. Vacuum hoses and intake manifold, which No leaks detected, New air filter, new locking gas cap, removed and cleaned the MAF sensor "again" with MAF sensor cleaner, and big mistake We added about 1/4 of a 16oz. Bottle of"DURA LUBE(race born) Severe Fuel System Cleaner" to only about just over 1/4 tank gas, (directions called for full bottle of Cleaner to a full tank of gas. Wrong move? Now these are my new readings:

**Please note that while all this is happening, I am losing water and antifreeze from "somewhere" off on side of passenger side (not radiator or water pump) it only does it about 75% of time ( a lot, fast and steady) getting worse. After driving ten miles. I stopped to see where it was from I noticed light smoke coming from pipe and of course very hot radiator hoses. However. The water and antifreeze flowing out, is cool water almost.

My new freeze frame readings are way worse now.
OBD Code P0171.

Fuel Sys 1. CL- SHRT FT1 - 4.7
Fuel Sys 2 - LONG FT1 - 12.5
Load (PCT) - 46.7. SHRT FT2 - -3.11
ECT - 66. LONGFT2 - -7.0
RPM - 968
VSS - 0
And at first reading my IM readiness codes stated seven completed system were okay. Now only three does.
It has tobe due to the fuel cleaner I put in with little gas. (?)
Emission readiness readings:
(t test#1) (this Test)
ML - ON. ON
MS - OK. OK
FUEL. - OK. OK
CCM - OK. OK
CAT - OK. INC
HCAT - N/A. N/A
EVAP - INC. INC.
AIR - N/A. N/A
O2s - OK. INC.
HTR - OK. INC.
EGR - INC. INC.

I now went from having seven systems. Emission ready down to three.
Please help! What to do now? Did I mess it up real bad?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 9th, 2019 AT 5:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GINALANGSTON1
  • MEMBER
  • 65 POSTS
I do not remember how to get to the page asking for a donation for you guys. Please let me know so I can donate some money to guys as I did before. You guys are well worth it. Wish could only be more money.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 9th, 2019 AT 5:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
No worries. We are glad to help. Let us know if you have any follow up questions.

Roy
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 9th, 2019 AT 5:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GINALANGSTON1
  • MEMBER
  • 65 POSTS
Well, besides needing help with the new problems and codes on the second from that last letter. I forgot to mention that the first few times that I reset codes it took approximately a week before check engine light would come back on. And now it takes less then a mile. Please help? What should I do about the above reply?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
-1
Friday, August 9th, 2019 AT 5:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Okay, lets start with the code.

When you clear a code, the ECM tests the system. When a fault code is detected, it must fail its own internal test three times in a row to set a hard code and a light. That is why it takes time for a code to reset. Clearing a code does nothing as it is still an issue until diagnostics are done and repairs made.

Roy
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 9th, 2019 AT 5:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GINALANGSTON1
  • MEMBER
  • 65 POSTS
Okay, but what about the message I first replied with? About all the IM readiness codes changed and the fuel system cleaner? What caused all them to change to INC? And what do I do now to get them all back again? Please read my reply from the original question and to Roy's reply. Thanks
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 9th, 2019 AT 5:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
When you cleared the codes they all go to not ready. They must be checked and the ECM will run its own test and when they pass they will go to complete or ready.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 9th, 2019 AT 5:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GINALANGSTON1
  • MEMBER
  • 65 POSTS
Okay and that is what I am trying to say. Every time I ran the OBD scanner and the emission readiness this is what it always read With my P0171 code. Even after all resets.
IM readiness:

MIL- ON
MS- OK
FUEL- OK
CCM- OK
CAT- OK
HCAT- N/A
EVAP- INC
AIR- N/A
O2s- OK
HTR- OK
EGR- OK

And now since I put that fuel system cleaner in gas tank with too little of gas I think, and new fuel cap and air filter. It is now reading that everything except fuel, CCM, MS and EGR. Are now INC.
I went from having seven Complete and Ready system, down to three. And I do not know why or how to fix it back. Also, my water leak on top of all of it.
Also, you stated in your first reply that my freeze frame reading of 10.9 for my long TFT was what set my code. That it should be only at seven. Well now that 10.9 reading is at 12.5. What happened I do not know.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 9th, 2019 AT 5:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Okay, NA means not available and does not apply to your truck.

The INC or the EVAP is the only one not ready. You need to do a drive cycle to set that. It will go to INC every time you clear the code.

What was the fuel pressure?

If it is only the 171, your issue is on the passenger bank. You most likely have a vacuum leak possibly at the intake manifold.

Roy
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 9th, 2019 AT 5:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GINALANGSTON1
  • MEMBER
  • 65 POSTS
Actually, A friend of mine sprayed starter fluid and carburetor cleaner all over everything looking for a vacuum leak and did not find one. Then I added about a quarter of a bottle of Severe Fuel Injector cleaner to a quarter tank of gas and replaced the gas cap. Then my IM Readiness codes changed from the above to
MS- ok
Fuel- ok
CCM- ok
CAT- INC
HCAT- N/A
EVAP- INC
AIR- N/A
O2s- INC
HTR- INC
EGR- INC
Then I put the old gas cap back on and then the EGR went back to OK. Then put more gas and system cleaner in it and drove a few miles and reset codes again and now the HTR and O2s are reading OK but the CAT is reading INC and EVAP is still INC. I then drove it a few more miles and now even though my O2s is reading OK again a. New code for the O2s just popped up again. So now I have the P0171 and P0133 codes. Why is it that these keep changing and what should I do now?
How do I perform a drive cycle? And even the my fuel is reading OK should I still perform a fuel pressure test?
Also, sometimes when my gas gauge reads low fuel and I put gas in it sometimes takes about a mile or two before that low fuel light goes out. I do not know if that has anything to do with anything.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 9th, 2019 AT 5:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Okay, first, you need to stop resetting codes. That clears all the monitors and they go to incomplete. I would be more concerned fixing the 171 code and the 133 then worrying about the monitors.

They will all clear after you repair the codes and then clear them and do a drive cycle.

As far as the fuel treatment, additives have little or no effect on cleaning injectors. The only real way is to disable the fuel system and inject directly into the fuel rail a cleaner that the engine runs with to break up the carbon deposits on the pindles.

Below are the possible reasons for the 133 codes.

You still need to check actual fuel pressure.

Roy

P0133
Item Description
Symptom/DTC P0133
Descriptor
Ho2S Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Ho2S-11)
Probable Causes
Exhaust Leaks
Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Contaminated
Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Deteriorating
Improper Fueling
Inlet Air Leaks
Mass Air flow (MAF) Sensor
Wiring Shorted or Open
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 9th, 2019 AT 5:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GINALANGSTON1
  • MEMBER
  • 65 POSTS
Okay, thank you. After I sent you that last message, I drove home (approximately ten miles) and read the codes again and they were all back to the original first reading with just the P0171 code. The P0133 code was gone and everything was back to reading OK, except EVAP. (INC)and the HCAT and AIR. Was still N/A.
And as for the drive cycle, The check engine light will not stay on long enough to run one. It comes back on within the first mile. What can I do? My emissions are due in five days.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 9th, 2019 AT 5:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
You need to repair the 171 code.

Again, did you check the fuel pressure?

Roy
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Friday, August 9th, 2019 AT 5:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GINALANGSTON1
  • MEMBER
  • 65 POSTS
No. I will do that today or Wednesday and get back to you on that. Besides needing a fuel pressure tester, of course am I going to need a vacuum pump as well while checking the fuel pressure? I read somewhere that it would call for using one while performing a fuel pressure check and I want to make sure to rent both at the same time from AutoZone. Please let me know. Thanks.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 9th, 2019 AT 5:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
No, just get the pressure tester. Not necessary.

Roy
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 9th, 2019 AT 5:46 PM (Merged)

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links