Why is my engine overheating?

The car sits idling after startup for thirty minutes with or without the AC on. It does not overheat. I drive for seven minutes and it then overheats.
The car has two thermostats top "water regulator stat" I believe may be upside down with the tiny hole might be on bottom. I saw tiny bubbles after drain and fill radiator. Consistent bubbles in the radiator.

Thank you all for your help.
Sold it and bought a 2015 Passat.

After running the engine or driving for at least 30 minutes it runs hot. I've noticed one of the cooling fans runs at a medium speed and the other won't start unless I give it a spin with a hand and then it moves but really slow. I'm suspecting the thermostat but it seems the fans could be an issue as well. I replaced one of the three fuses that are for the fans and before replacing it only one fan worked. I'm not sure in this case what the cause may be

Thanks, the fan was definitely the culprit. I've replaced it and now no more overheating.

My car about a month ago started to overheat. Funny part is the temp goes up and comes back down. We have replaced both thermostat, water pump, and my starter.

The car over heats when it wants to at any particular time. We have done flushes, oil change, pressure test and all and still the same thing. The service engine shows me the oh2. There is no leaks at the bottom of my car, the radiator seems to have coolant. The odd thing is that I did have to add antifreeze to it since it would run low every 3 to 4 days.

Is the head gasket the next step?

Engine Cooling problem 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 113500 miles

My automobile recently started overheating when I travel at 60 to 70 mph. When this happens the air conditioner stops working. I had the freon checked and the cooling system has no leaks and has coolant. As long as the temp guage is normal the air conditioner works fine, the problem starts when I'm on the freeway at a high speeds.
What could be causing the problem?

Engine Cooling problem
2005 Nissan Altima 4 cyl Manual 64000 miles

Dear Mr. Expert!
I drive a Nissan Altima 2005 and the engine has overheated twice in the last 6 months with no apparent reason (i.E. Normal temperature gauge reading), leading to oil/water contamination in both casesà  à   Â
The first was at 97,000Km mileage. The head gasket was blown and the cylinder head surface was affected. The overheating was due to the failed lower cooling thermostat/valve, and the temperature gauge didnà  à   à   t go up since there was almost no coolant in the radiator as the mechanic explained (due to internal leak). The repair job included replacing the gasket and straightening to the cylinder head surface. The 2 thermostats were replaced along with the water pump.
The second failure was at 102,000Km (5 months later). One week earlier I started to notice little coolant decrease which went large within a week (almost empty overnight). The temperature gauge didnà  à   à   t go up this time either and the engine didnà  à   à   t run on an empty radiator, since I was checking and adding coolant consistently. Upon engine disassembly, there was almost minimal to no damage to the cylinder head and its surface, but the engine block was affected and its surface needs to be straightenedà  à   Â
The concern is that there is no apparent reason for overheating, especially with the second failure. Could the temp gauge be broken, or ità  à   à   s all because the repair job wasnà  à   à   t done properly the first time? For the record, the engine block was NOT checked for straightness the first time.

Thanks for the swift reply. Really appreciated.

Do you mean there has been a subtle crack/damage in the head, which wasn't caught the 1st time and has led to the second failure?

My mechanic is contending that if this was true, then the engine would have failed immediately in less than 24 hours after repairing it the first time, not to mention that the car has made 5000km between the two failures.

Does he have a point here!

Just to confirm, with the 2nd engine disassembly and upon visual inspection, there's no apparent crack in the head (only surface was slightly affected), but the block surface is affected this time (slightly warped).

Hello

No, the cylinder head was NOT pressure tested the first time.

Something to notice is that the engine block for this car model is Aluminum too.

For the amount of warp occured in the block, I'm not exactly familiar with the measures here, but when the block's surface was tested for flatness, there was a clearance of about 0.5mm at the center, where you can move a piece of paper almost freely within it.

Buying a whole engine (used one) would cost the same as replacing the head and decking the block. This is where the case is actually going now

Actually what i'm really concerend about is the CAUSE of the SECOND FAILURE. Was it because:

1) A bad 1st repair job. OR
2) Overheating again

I attaching 2 photos of the cylinder head after the two failures. From the comparison you may notice the head was muh less damaged the 2nd time (the red circles only) whcih makes me more convinced it didn't overheat

the issue seems complicated to me. If u need more details and clarifications then I'm ready