It still wants to overheat?

Hello TRAVIS BUTLER2,

Were you working on something just before that started happening?

Thank you,
Brendon

Hello TRAVIS BUTLER2,

Sorry to hear that. There are several things that could cause this. So, I would start by checking a few simple things.

How is the air filter? A clogged air filter won't let the engine breathe. If it can breathe it can run.

I would open the air filter box and take a look and make sure the filter is clean if not replace it. Sometime animals will make nests in the air box as well, so check for like acorns or straw or anything and if it is there vacuum it out and change the filter.

If you are using something like a cold air intake. It is possible to damage the Mass Air Flow or MAF sensor because those filters usually use oil. If too much is applied after cleaning it can be sucked into the MAF coating it with oil and this will give the PCM the wrong amount of air entering the engine. So, it won't add the fuel necessary to run the vehicle.

Now, I haven't been fishing for about 20 years except for commercial fishing. But I know the best time to fish is usually when it rains. Was it raining there last night in your area? If so, it is possible water, got into something a shorted it out. If this is the case usually letting it dry completely will help.

It seems for now that you have sufficient spark from what I can tell but it may be getting starved of fuel.

When was the last time the fuel filter was changed? If you are not sure, they are pretty cheap so it may be worth switching out with a new one.

I have added an image of its location for you along with instructions on how to remove/replace it.

To do this, you will need to relieve fuel system pressure. This is pretty easy. There is a Schrader valve on the fuel rail. Looks like a tire valve mostly. And just like a tire valve, it will have a pin in it when you remove the cap. What I normally do is take a pic or something else pointy and wrap a rag around it. Then using that push on the valve and this will release the pressure in the system.

I would wear safety glasses because getting gas in your eye is not a pleasant experience.

Now there might be a correlation between the fan issue and the running issue as sometimes a bad PCM can cause both. However, the PCM is putting out that 5 volts we saw earlier when working on the ECT. Sometimes if a PCM is going you won't have that reference voltage. But we do so for right now I am hoping it is not that.

Has anything improved since last night? Can you get it to start and stay running?

If you feather the gas, can you keep it running?

Anything else you noticed or have tried?

Did you get gas before this started happening maybe earlier in the day or something?

Also, if my responses are too long, please let me know and I will send less more often. Sometimes I start typing and they get really long. But I am only trying to give as much information and help as I can, but if it is too long and not helping, please let me know.

Thank you,
Brendon

Hey TRAVIS BUTLER2,

With the key on the fuel pump will run about 3 seconds and turn off. It should be between 50-60 PSI my information is telling me.

So, install the gauge and turn the key on and see what you get. Then just leave it and see if it holds the same pressure. You might have a variation of about 5 PSI when pump turns off, but it should stay constant after that.

Thank you,
Brendon

Hey TRAVIS BUTLER2,

If by hitting you mean pushing the valve in, not it will not continue to pump fuel through the valve. Also, just because there is fuel at that valve doesn't mean the fuel pressure is sufficient enough to run the engine.

Thank you,
Brendon

Hey TRAVIS BUTLER2,

Do you have a fuel pressure tester? If not, you can rent one from an auto parts store if someone could give you a ride. If not, you can get them on Amazon.

I found this one for you. It seems decent and comes as a kit, but it also has a bleed valve on it that some cheaper ones don't.

Here is the link:
https://www.amazon.com/BETOOLL-0-140PSI-Injector-Injection-Pressure/dp/B00VV29NHM/ref=asc_df_B00VV29NHM?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80470559180558&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584070137775968&th=1

I have never bought from this seller, but it looks like a good product and it's inexpensive. Definitely a good tool to have.

Also, I am adding a flow chart for Fuel System Diagnosis for you from my information. Let me know if you have any questions about it. It is designed for use with a scan tool and GM specialty tools, so some of the information is irrelevant.

I apologize it is in pieces. It is the only way I can send it unfortunately.

Also, that Salmon fishing sounds fun. I live in NY, so we don't have that here. Plenty of other fish but I wouldn't eat them. The water around here is just nasty looking unfortunately. Salmon is delicious though.

Hope this helps.

Let me know what you get for readings.

Thank you,
Brendon

Hello TRAVIS BUTLER2,

Okay. Good to hear. Glad it was something simple.

Have a good day.

Thank you,
Brendon

Hello TRAVIS BUTLER2,

Okay. Has the engine light been on at all?

The whine is probably the alternator. But don't go and replace it. It could be caused because there is a difference in "potential" or voltage between two points which being a 2005 might be a ground.

Did you hook up that stereo you and I spoke about in the other thread? If so, this may be causing an issue also. Was an adaptor used for the wiring?

What about an amp or anything else like that? Do you have anything else installed?

Also, the way you have the fans hooked up might be causing an issue too. Power might be going somewhere it shouldn't. I would unhook it from the battery for now and see if anything changes.

Thank you,
Brendon

Hello TRAVIS BUTLER2,

Okay. You said when you start it, it wants to do nothing but whine. Do you mean it doesn't actually start it is just making a whining noise when you turn the key to the start position?

Thank you,
Brendon

Hello TRAVIS BUTLER2,

Okay. Thank you for clearing that up. You may be right, but it may not be receiving enough power to engage it fully, not that it is necessarily bad.

Let's test and see what we can find out.

Using your multimeter on volts dc, put red lead on purple wire on the solenoid and put black to the engine block in a clean spot near the starter for ground. Then have a friend turn the key to the start position and see if you are getting a full 12 volts on the thin purple wire.

Let me know what you get.

If it is binding you can tap the starter with a hammer. Try doing this while a friend is turning the key. If the solenoid is bad, then the hammer should work.

Thank you,
Brendon