Check engine light?

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,916 POSTS
You're looking at this the wrong way. Each fuse protects multiple parts of multiple circuits today since everything involves numerous computers, so there's no way they can list everything a fuse affects. In the shop, when you're paying us by the hour, we don't have time to fiddle with every fuse to inspect it visually, and we sure don't have time to sit down with a service manual and figure out which three to six fuses are involved with the dead circuit. We grab a test light and poke it into the two small test-point holes on each fuse. In this way, we can test up to two dozen fuses in a minute.

You need the ignition switch turned on, and the circuit with the problem turned on. Both test points on a fuse should have 12 volts. If you find a fuse with 0 volts on both sides, that circuit isn't turned on and a blown fuse would be irrelevant to the story. What you're looking for is a fuse that has 12 volts on one test point and 0 volts on the other.

Fuses often blow from the current surge when connecting the battery. All that's needed is to replace those. If a fuse blows again, either immediately, or intermittently, I have a trick for working with that.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 10:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
VANMAN3
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
I need to take this in today for emissions. Tomorrow, I'm leaving town.
Can I get this done?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 10:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
VANMAN3
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
Okay, well thanks anyway! Going to mechanic. No time to mess around.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 10:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,573 POSTS
The best thing would be to test the sensor on the line. However being you are in a rush I would replace it and see if it does the trick. Testing it isn't difficult but you may not have the tools to do that. Hopefully the shop you go to finds the problem. Sorry I didn't get back sooner.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 10:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
VANMAN3
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
I went to a mechanic and it was bad. It knocked out the engine light though still showed numerous codes. I drove it 100 miles and did not complete. So I found another way to get it done.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 10:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,573 POSTS
That was what I was afraid of, light being on hiding things. If you have time and want to give the others a shot just post when you get a chance. This time of year gets a bit hectic so no rush.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 10:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
VANMAN3
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
B1883
B1892
B1933
B1932
B1869
B2792
B1342
B1226

These are codes left after fuel sensor replacement.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 10:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,573 POSTS
Well that's an impressive list. Has this van been in an accident that set off the air bags? Pretty much all of those codes are air bag and seat belt pre-tensioner codes. However code B1342 may hold the answer to those as it comes up as a faulty Restraint Control Module and if it is faulty it could set those codes because it doesn't see the inputs from the various systems connected to it.
The Restraint Module is mounted under the drivers seat. They can get wet and crud can get into the housing rather easily. Replacing them isn't difficult. You disconnect the battery, wait about 10 minutes and then you can unplug the module. Plug in the replacement and re-connect the battery.

The odd one out isn't listed for your van B1226 but as you have the sensor it likely can throw the code. That shows as a brake warning switch for fluid level shorted on other Fords. That would be a switch under the brake reservoir that turns on the light if the brake fluid gets low. Looks like the image attached.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 10:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
VANMAN3
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
Yes, I got rear ended though airbags did not come out. Emergency brake light comes on and off all the time now since.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 10:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
VANMAN3
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
My van got a dent in the rear bumper, but his Chevrolet Cavalier's front was totaled.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 10:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
VANMAN3
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
My van got a dent in the rear bumper, but his chevy cavaliers front was totaled
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 10:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,573 POSTS
That would explain some of it as an impact may have triggered some of the parts. However there is no impact detected code. The brake light is likely that level sensor as it turns that light on to warn you of low fluid level, they have always been touchy simply by the design they used.

As for the others they could all be caused by a bad RCM under the seat. Especially as you have two codes showing for items your van doesn't have. I would check that both of the fuses (14 and 20) are good and then check the ground for the module, it's under the seat near the module. If those are OK you would next need a dealer level scan tool that can talk to the RCM and let you unplug the air bags and test those circuits.

These are the definitions of the codes.

B1883 - Passenger seat belt pre-tensioner shorted to ground
B1892 - Air Bag Warning Indicator Lamp Circuit Short To Ground
B1933 - Air Bag Passenger Squib Circuit Open Fault
B1932 - Air Bag Driver Squib Circuit Open Fault
B1869 - Air Bag Warning Indicator Lamp Circuit open
B2792 - Short Circuit Between Tripping Loops
B1342 - Faulty Restraint Control Module
and
B1226 - Brake Warning Switch Fluid Level Shorted
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 10:32 AM (Merged)

Please login or register to post a reply.

Related Check Engine Light Content

Sponsored links