Only blowing cold air through heater

Tiny
CL1180
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 MERCEDES BENZ 280
  • 2.3L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 164,000 MILES
I recently replaced the water pump in my car. I had no issues other than no A/C. Within a few months I had heat and everything was working fine. So I started troubleshooting. I replaced the Duo valve/Heater control valve, thermostat, temperature sensor on the block, blower motor. Just because, auxiliary water pump, checked fuses, replaced the clutch fan, cleared error codes, flushed entire system and am not hearing any problems with the flap motor. I am at a loss. I am not sure if there is a relay that could be bad or if it could be a SAM issue. Any help would be highly appreciated. Thank you. Craig O.
Sunday, November 10th, 2019 AT 7:47 PM

6 Replies

Tiny
MOTOR MASTER
  • MECHANIC
  • 279 POSTS
Hello my name is Dave.

If you are sure that the blend door is working properly there are a few other likely suspects, one of the most commonly overlooked culprits is the cabin air filter, if you aren't getting a lot of air blowing from the vents this is most likely the cause. Another thing I have encountered with your car is purging the system as they can be extremely stubborn about releasing trapped air in the system which could cause the issue you are having. The other thing I would make sure is that the control valve is functioning properly and if it is I would check for a clogged heater core by turning the heat on after the car has reached operating temperature and feeling the how hot each of the hoses are going to he the heater core. If one hose feels a lot cooler to the touch and your control valve is open then the core is clogged. If the hoses feel relatively close to the same temperature then you issue is most likely related to the blend door inside the duct work, provided that the air is blowing out strongly as I mentioned referring to the cabin filter. Please keep us up to date on your progress and thank you for using 2CarPros!
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Monday, November 11th, 2019 AT 4:14 AM
Tiny
CL1180
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Thank you for your input. I will keep you up to date. Much appreciated.
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Monday, November 11th, 2019 AT 12:21 PM
Tiny
CL1180
  • MEMBER
  • 25 POSTS
Hey Dave, just went through everything again and I didn't remove the cover for the firewall housing to feel the hoses, but the 1 heading in through the firewall on the driver side get hot to the touch and the hose from the auxiliary water pump and to and from the duo valve are cold to the touch. Also the radiator stays very cool like there is no heat at all being generated in it but the upper radiator hose to the thermostat gets hot. The temperature gauge is fluctuating to one extreme to the next also. It seems I am get a little lukewarm air if I set the climate control to just the up setting. Now I'm stuck on either heater core, radiator another bad auxiliary pump.
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Monday, November 11th, 2019 AT 5:11 PM
Tiny
CL1180
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  • 25 POSTS
Also, can a faulty vacuum distribution block (the one behind the glove box? Cause the issue? I can see the floor door opening but it looks like the others don't actuate at from the vision I have on the passenger side with the glove box out.
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Monday, November 11th, 2019 AT 9:43 PM
Tiny
MOTOR MASTER
  • MECHANIC
  • 279 POSTS
It is possible for there to be an issue with the vacuum system when it comes to any of HVAC controls, this is why I asked if you were sure the blend door was moving. Unfortunately that is quite an elaborate system and the first suspect has been eliminated if at least one door is functioning and that is the vacuum supply to the system. I have attached a diagram of the vacuum system for the HVAC in your car, and if you can get to the switch over valve block then you can test for vacuum to the blend door when you switch it from hot to cold. From the diagram it looks like it shouldn't be that difficult to get to. The other thing you could do is supply vacuum to the hose and see if you can tell if the door is moving. What I would do if I didn't have a vacuum pump is get a piece of hose, attach it to the hose going to the blend door and suck on it and see if it moves, I would also put my tongue over the hose to see if the actuator hold vacuum. If alternately if you have a vacuum pump or can get one (around $25.00 at Harbor Freight) and use that o supply the vacuum and see if the gauge stays steady after you supply vacuum. If the actuator doesn't hold vacuum then it will need to be replaced. The other issue that concerns me more is that you are having what sounds like inconsistent temperatures in your cooling system. If the coolant going to the core isn't hot you won't get heat. That being said I again lean toward trapped air in the cooling system which could definitely cause the temperature fluctuation you are describing. I have quite a bit of experience with Mercedes and they can be extremely stubborn about releasing trapped air. The best way to purge the system is to use a anti spill coolant funnel. I have seen them on Amazon for around $20.00.

https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-87009-No-Spill-Coolant-Filling/dp/B01A2CQSU6/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=coolant+funnel&qid=1573560466&sr=8-5

Starting with a cold engine attach the funnel and fill it approximately 3/4 full with coolant and start the car with the heat on high and let it run until it reaches operating temperature, maintaining the coolant level. Once it reaches operating temperature allow it to cool completely again maintaining the coolant level in the funnel. On these cars I usually go through these steps 3 times as I have thought I had all the air out of the system and then they suddenly start having symptoms like you are describing. I feel that will get to the heart of your problem. Please keep us updated on your progress.
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Tuesday, November 12th, 2019 AT 4:20 AM
Tiny
CL1180
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  • 25 POSTS
Thanks for all your input Dave I finally got everything fixed. It took for ever and few times and comoressed air but the heater core clogged up. Now I have to go back and ask another question about my CCU. Thanks Craig.
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Monday, December 2nd, 2019 AT 4:43 PM

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