OBD code P2185

Tiny
NAYFUL ISLAM
  • MEMBER
  • 2008 HONDA ACCORD
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 107 MILES
Hi, I have check engine light on few days ago and I went to AutoZone they check the code and they found p2185 engine coolant temperature sensor 2. I replaced it and after I replaced it I reset the check engine light and I drove the car about 15 miles then I turn off the car and I start it again the check engine light came on again. Then after 2 days I reset it again and when I turn the car on check engine light keep coming on. I’m 100% sure I replaced the correct ECT sensor under the radiator, but the problem isn’t solved. I want help want to know what is going on. Is there any serious problem? What can cause this issue?
Sunday, September 22nd, 2019 AT 12:58 AM

3 Replies

Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,465 POSTS
Welcome to 2CarPros. Many times it isn't the sensor that is bad, it is the wiring that is the problem. Either a bad connector or the wire itself gets damaged. The end result is a code saying the sensor is bad.
A P2185 is set when the ECM doesn't detect the sensor return voltage dropping as the coolant warms up. (this code would set if the sensor were unplugged as well)
To test the wiring you will need a simple meter.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

Unplug the sensor connector and with the key on measure for approximately 5 volts at the two terminals in the connector. This sensor uses one wire as ground (Black) and the other wire (Yellow with Red stripe) sends 5 volts to the sensor. If you don't find the 5 volts at the connector the next step will be to test which wire is bad. To do that use the meter with the ground lead attached to a good ground point. If you now find voltage on the yellow/red wire the feed side is okay. Now switch the meter to ohms or continuity and test the black wire. It should show almost zero ohms or beep if you have a good ground. Both of the wires enter the ECM in the same connector (A). The ground is in pin 10 while the voltage comes from pin 34. If you disconnect the battery and unplug the ECM connector you can test the two wires for continuity. The easy way is to put a jumper wire to a ground in each at the sensor end. Then test at the ECM end to see which one isn't grounded. Then you follow the harness to see if you find damage or a broken wire.
Any questions just ask.

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Sunday, September 22nd, 2019 AT 9:31 AM
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello,

In the diagrams down below I have included the factory diagnostic troubleshooting guide for Direct Trouble Code(DTC) P2135. You will need to use a Digital Multi-meter (DMM) to go through this guide, so here is a link down below for you to go to, if needed:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

Please go through this guide and get back to us with how everything turns out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Sunday, September 22nd, 2019 AT 9:36 AM
Tiny
MASTERWRENCH
  • MECHANIC
  • 258 POSTS
Welcome to 2CarPros!

If the sensor has been replaced, the most likely cause of the recurring trouble code is a wiring issue. I suggest following the diagnostic procedure below to figure out the source of the issue.

Before beginning this procedure, you'll need to familiarize yourself with the use of a DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter). See the link below for a quick tutorial. Also, you'll need to know the location of the PCM. See attachment 4 below for this information.

1. Turn the ignition switch to ON.
2. Unplug the ECT 2 connector.
3. Measure voltage between ECT sensor 2 connector terminal No. 1 and body ground
(see attachment 1).

Is there about 5 V?

YES - Go to step 4.

NO - This indicates an open circuit somewhere between the sensor connector and the
PCM. At this point you can either trace the entire circuit and look for the break or
you can run a new circuit from the PCM to the sensor. See attachment 3 for the
circuit location at the PCM connector.

4. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector A (49P).
5. Check for continuity between ECT sensor 2 2P connector terminal No. 2 and ECM/PCM connector terminal A10 (see attachment 2).

Is there continuity?

YES - This indicates the issue you're dealing with is intermittent. Try making the above
measurements again while having a helper wiggle the wire harness.

NO - This indicates there is an open circuit somewhere between the sensor connector
and the PCM. At this point you can either trace the entire circuit and look for the
break or you can run a new circuit from the PCM to the sensor.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

Let us know what you find!
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Sunday, September 22nd, 2019 AT 9:40 AM

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