I have a "squeal" from the front passenger side tire area

If the noise was not happening when they looked at it then I suspect they just missed it. However, due to it going away when pressing the brakes and the type of noise you are hearing, I suspect the brakes are dragging on that side. In other words, I think the pads are pressing slightly too hard on the rotor and it is causing a noise. Due to it going away when they are pressed would be the biggest reason for this.

This could be caused by a couple different things. First is the caliper pins sticking not allowing the caliper to fully relax. Second is the caliper itself is not returning the piston. Lastly the brake line is swelling not allowing the fluid to return when the pedal is released.

Based on what you are seeing, I would think the first maybe the second cause of this as the last would be more consistent.

I would remove the calipers then clean and lubricate the pins so that we are sure that is not the issue.

I attached and circled the pins in each picture. Here is a guide to help you step by step with instructions in the diagrams below to show you how on your car.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/brake-caliper-replacement

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-front-brake-pads-and-rotors-fwd

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.

If the pad linings are still good with no excessive uneveness, it is aceptable. However it would be good to give it a little breaking-in periode for the pads to even out while driving during this period, avoid hard brakings.

Hi,

Replacing brakes isn't too hard to do. First, here is a link that explains in general how it's done. You can use these as a guide:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-front-brake-pads-and-rotors-fwd

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle. The attached pics correlate with the directions.

_______________________________________________________

2006 Ford Truck Explorer 4WD V6-4.0L VIN E
Front
Vehicle Brakes and Traction Control Disc Brake System Brake Pad Service and Repair Procedures Front
FRONT
Brake Pads

Material

pic 1

pic 2

pic 3

Removal

WARNING: Use of any other than approved DOT 3 motor vehicle brake fluid will cause permanent damage to brake components and will render the brakes inoperative. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury.

WARNING: Brake fluid contains polyglycol ethers and polyglycols. Avoid contact with eyes. Wash hands thoroughly after handling. If brake fluid contacts eyes, flush eyes with running water for 15 minutes. Get medical attention if irritation persists. If taken internally, drink water and induce vomiting. Get medical attention immediately. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury.

CAUTION: Brake fluid is harmful to painted and plastic surfaces. If brake fluid is spilled onto a painted or plastic surface, immediately wash it with water.

1. Check the brake fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir.
If required, remove brake fluid until the brake master cylinder reservoir is 1/2 full.

2. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist.

3. CAUTION: Do not pry in the brake caliper sight hole to retract the pistons as this can damage the pistons and boots.

CAUTION: Do not allow the brake caliper to hang from the brake hose or damage to the hose can occur.

Remove the 2 brake caliper bolts and position the brake caliper aside.
Support the caliper using mechanic's wire.

4. CAUTION: Install new brake pads if they are worn past the specified thickness above the metal backing plate or rivets. Install new brake pads in complete axle sets.

Inspect the brake pads for wear and contamination.
5. Inspect the brake disc, machine or install a new front brake disc as necessary.
6. Remove the brake pads and clips.
Discard the clips.

Installation

1. CAUTION: Do not allow grease, oil, brake fluid or other containments to contact the pad lining material. Do not install contaminated pads.

NOTE: One brake disc pad kit contains the pads and pad clips required for both sides.

Install the new brake pad clips and the brake pads.

pic 4

2. CAUTION: Protect the piston and boots when pushing the caliper piston into the caliper piston bores.

Using a suitable tool and a worn brake pad, compress the disc brake caliper pistons into the caliper.
3. Position the brake caliper and install the 2 bolts.
Tighten to 72 Nm (53 ft. lbs.).

4. Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with clean brake fluid.
5. Test the brakes for normal operation.

______________________

I hope this helps. Let me know if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

The rotors wear with the pads, and since they are made thinner, so they wiegh less, they are changed pretty much when the pads are, few places machine rotors or drums anymore.60,000 is actually higher than this stuff usually lasts.

What happens over time is the brake fluid is hydroscopic, meaning it will absorb moisture, it will do this even thru the piston seal! So eventually this produces a brown collection of crud, it builds up in the lowest part of the system, and that happens to be the calipers! Now when enough of this stuff builds up behind the piston, it causes a stuck or non retracting piston. This is where the uneven wear comes from. It is NOT unussal to replace calipers on a vehicle with 80,000 miles. Or sooner!

Hi:
For my own cars, I always get the cheapest I can find that have a life time warranty. However, ceramic pads will last you the longest and work the best. However, they are hard on brake rotors. You will most likely go through rotors everytime you replace pads.

I hope this helps. Let me know if you have other questions.

Joe

Hi jerroll;
Sorry to read about your brake problems.

All you need to do is bleed your brakes. What that means is , you will be getting rid of any "AIR" that is in your brake lines. After any air has been removed you will have brake lines filled with pure (DOT 3) brake fluid. Bleeding is just removing any air that are in the brake lines.- Easy to do.

Get some DOT 3 brake fluid.
Fill the master cylinder pictured below to the "MAX" line indicator on the side with DOT 3 brake fluid'
The master cylinder is located on the drivers side under the hood, right near the fire wall and fender. It looks like this:

You will need "someone" to push several times on the brake pedal and hold it to the floor. It is called "Pumping the Brakes".

Now "you" or someone needs to release any air that are in the brake lines. This is done by slightly and slowly loosening "BRAKE LINE BLEEDER" pictured in the image below.

https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/433905_Brake_bleeder_copy_1.jpg[/img]

You want to slightly loosen that "BRAKE BLEEDER" releasing all the air. Tighten the bleeder and have the brake pedal pumped again and held down completely as far as it will go. Loosen the bleeder again and release any air that is in the brake line. Have the brake pedal pumped again and held down as far as it will go loosen and then tighten the bleeder. Do the same as many times as you need until pure brake fluid and brake fluid "only" flows out of the small hole on top- you can see it in the image.
Once fluid and fluid only is flowing out tighten the "BRAKE BLEEDER". Do the same on the other side front. After any air is removed from your brake lines you will have solid brake fluid in the brake lines. The brake pedal should not travel very far for the brakes to start working properly. When you apply the brakes the pedal should be nice and solid.
That's it - you are all set.

Be safe working under your explorer.
Make sure it is being supported very securely.
"Do Not" take any chances, there is no room for any "instant rewind's" ...if something goes wrong under there you or someone else could get seriously injured.
Good Luck;
Any questions just get back to me.
Rick

Check the brake line the flexable one going to the front brakes they may be cloged or turned and couseing a clog and not letting the brake fluid go back to resivor to release the brakes all the way

My guess is that the side that you did replace is either warped or not setting on the hub flush. Somtimes you get a new warped rotor. Rare, but possible. Should replace both rotors.

There is somthing wrong here. That truck doesn't have an inner and outer wheel bearing. It has a wheel bearing that is part of the hub assy.

Whoever did the work should show you the old ones.

This is what you said: "the truck never vibrated before changing the brakes." Therefore the wheel bearings should have nothing to do with your vibration. I think somthing wasn't done right on the brake job the first time and someone's screw up was covered up afterwards.