No start condition

Tiny
RCA195203
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 GMC SONOMA
  • 4.3L
  • V6
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 200,000 MILES
The truck was running just fine then I got code for a cam sensor. I did a check on the 12v positive and ground and they were fine, but my meter couldn't scope for a square wave on the single wire. So I bought another sensor and changed it out. Now all it does is turnover but it will not start. Any suggestions?
Friday, October 4th, 2019 AT 11:26 AM

7 Replies

Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Hi,

Are you getting any codes? If so, what are they? What was the code you got before? I know you said that was all you did but is there any other history with this issue?
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Saturday, October 5th, 2019 AT 5:46 PM
Tiny
RCA195203
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The only code was for the cam sensor, I forget the number. Do I have to reprogram it like I did for the crank sensor? It was running just fine until I changed out the cam sensor. It would start right up with no cranking time at all before starting. Do you know if I have to reprogram the cam sensor to the PCM? I had to go through all of that when I put in my crank sensor last year. It would not start then either just turn over. And I know that the cam and crank needs to talk with each other.
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Sunday, October 6th, 2019 AT 12:11 PM
Tiny
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Hi,

According to the procedure you only need to plug in the new CMP and do not have to program it. Plus you did not have to program the PCM to the new CKP sensor, you had to perform a CKP System Variation Learn Procedure. Basically this teaches the PCM the different windows of the new CKP because they are not all cut perfectly and if there are a little off it could cause running issues.

Also, take a look at the attachment, it says that the CMP sensor is only used for determining misfires and will not effect driveability.

I attached the procedure in case you have access to a scan tool you can try this but unfortunately it requires you to start the engine which is why I don't think it is your issue.

Let's just pull a spark plug and hold it against the block and crank the engine to check for spark. Then if you have spark let's spray some starter fluid in the intake just to see if we are dealing with a spark or fuel issue.
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Sunday, October 6th, 2019 AT 6:35 PM
Tiny
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Thanks, I'll look at what you sent. As far as what I said about reprogramming the CKP, that was wrong now that I thought about it and you said what you just told me, I remember doing that variation learn because of trying to disconnect the chime bell for the ignition and I pulled off the wire for the GM security system. I locked myself out of starting the unit once I turned it over to start. I had to learn all about that and learned how to relearn the system. It worked on the second try.
I read a couple of days ago about the cam sensor and how it will allow you to run but run rough. And how it's used for a misfire. Last year I had a misfire on the #6 and #4 and could not figure out why. I replaced the heads because I blew a gasket and when I put it back together I bent over two pins in the plenum for the injectors and didn't know it until this year when I went looking at different things for misfires. I've been learning how to be a better mechanic as I go on. I'm retired and have all the time in the world. So far I have changed out the whole top of the engine. I should of done the cam but maybe next year I know it's under specs on the lobs. I have a INNOVA 3130c scanner and it does not show any codes for now. And as far as having fire to the plugs goes, I checked out every plug and wire for fire with a spark tester and all have spark. So unless I'm missing something here, I would think that plug, wire, coil, ICM, cap and rotor should be good, right? It acts like it wants to start but just can't jump over the start line. Today I sprayed starter fluid in the intake but it acted like it wanted to go but only backfired and did nothing.
Here another question for ya: Last year when I talked to you or some one at 2CarPros about a problem I was having with low fuel pressure showing only 48 psi. And you said to change out the fuel pump, but I told that person that it was a new pump but was told that it didn't matter if it's new or not to change it out. So now I put in a another new fuel pump and it shows 45 psi. This is a bit upsetting being another new pump. What could be doing this? And I did a voltage drop test on the fuel pump to only find out that it's off by 2.4 v off on the positive side. The negative side was alright. I figure that all of this is somehow linked up somewhere. Thank you for all the help!

Jerry
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Sunday, October 6th, 2019 AT 9:00 PM
Tiny
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Short answer is yes to most all what you stated. Your ignition system should be just fine if you are getting spark as you stated. The fact that you got a back fire when spraying starter fluid could be just because there was fuel still in the intake but is there a chance the timing is off? If the intake valve is not closing properly or at the right time then the spark will get into the intake and cause the back fire. This will also cause the engine to act like it wants to start but not fully start.

As for the pressure, you are correct that this is too low. It should be around 55-60 PSI and a little higher when the throttle is open.

If you have a voltage drop 2.5 volts low across the pump then you have resistance in the circuit. This can cause the pump to run on low voltage producing low PSI. It could all be related so lets just make sure there is no way timing is off and we can go from there. Thanks
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Monday, October 7th, 2019 AT 7:22 PM
Tiny
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Thank you for the reply and the time that you spend talking with me on this problem. The timing might be off but like I said earlier, it started up pretty quick with out any problems before so not starting now has me really shaking my head. As far as the timing goes, I use the balloon method that was on YouTube and it works pretty good. Once I get a brake in the weather, I'll make sure it's on the mark. But there was a problem when I put the harmonic balancer back on because I had to fix a oil leak on the front seal and it was this, when I was using my install tool and the balancer was going on pretty easy, it seemed to bottom out yet I'm still an inch away from the top of the timing cover. I found that to be odd and put my leg into a couple of turns more but although it seemed like it was going on further, it really didn't move any more at all! After watching a video on that issue I noticed the guy using a large socket to make sure that the sprocket on the crank was on all of the way and I didn't do that, so many that is the reason. I did however check the fuel pump relay and it's making contact sound when I turn on the key. But there is no way to hear if the fuel pump is making a turn on sound. With my hearing being as bad as it is and the fact that I'm by my self, it makes it hard. Thanks.
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Monday, October 7th, 2019 AT 9:04 PM
Tiny
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Okay. Sounds good. I don't know if that is the issue but clearly we need to eliminate it so let me know what you find. Thanks
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Tuesday, October 8th, 2019 AT 5:00 PM

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