No start after changing IAC Valve?

I cleaned the valve and the port opening. It started up with a slight hesitation on its own. After a minute or so I shut it off and tried to restart it. Wouldn’t but sounded like it wanted to but then backfired. Drained the battery extremely fast. I took throttle body off and cleaned it. Was clean thoroughly. No start. Went and bought a new valve. Still no start. It did backfire though.
I watched the video. You can hear the fuel pump when the key is turned to the on position. It’s less than a year old itself. Still won’t start even if pedal held down to the floor. Drains battery real fast.
I cleaned the ERG valve a few months ago. Could it be faulty now or could it be out of time with the new parts?
Thanks for your time in advance.

Hello. Since the last text I have done the following.
I wanted to check the timing and rotor position on the distributor first. So, after looking at the rotor itself, it had two burn marks down both sides of the metal pointer. I went and got both a new cap and rotor.
Prior to checking it I drained the power by first disconnecting the cables from the battery and then using one side of some jumper cables I connected the two cables together and wrapped a shop towel around each one. I left it like this till I was finished with replacing rotor and cap.
After this I reconnected the battery and did two cycles of turning the key to on position for 5 seconds then Off for 3 seconds. At the start of the third cycle, I just turned it on for 5 seconds and then cranked it. Started up. Idled rough at first but has settled down to 850-900 at the present time. I drove it 17 miles and after 3 hours it started right up. A few hours later I had to press the pedal down again for it to start. This morning it started but not like it should. I changed plugs and wires later last year when I noticed one had a burn mark on it.
Have not had the injection balance test done yet. I cleaned the ERG valve a few months ago. I’ll look at it again. On those is it advisable to replace it with a new one or does cleaning one suffice too?
Thanks for your time.

Hello. Got back from having a hair transplant. This is how I found my problem.
My buddy gave me a new ABS module, so I decided to put it on. Then I debated whether to bleed the brakes. I have a bleeder kit. After the third round of debate, I decided to do it because I changed the module.
I got under the front driver side front wheel to see if I could connect the tube without taking tires off. I noticed a 1/4” shiny band going around the front drive shaft near the linkage. Saw a sliver of the wiring harness hanging. Tugged a little and got both harnesses to come around the drive shaft and saw where both harnesses were rubbing on the shaft. Two wires in two (this is the fuel harness) and a large gauge wire from other harness rubbing on drive shaft.
Because of changing the module, I finally will be able to get a haircut. Your suggestion of it being an electrical issue was on point. Thank you for your time and input.