Intermittent no start issue

Hi,

It really sounds like you have a loose or corroded connection at the battery. What can happen is this; if there is a loose/corroded cable when you turn the key to start, the connection is lost because of the heavy draw on the battery. A few seconds later, things turn back on.

I would like to start at that point. Do me a favor. Take a look through this link and perform what it is recommending.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

Let me know if that helps. I'm interested in knowing.

Take care and I hope you had a great Christmas.

Joe

Hi,

Because of the model year, you can't bypass the ignition switch. I did get the wiring schematic for the starting system for you. See pics below.

Now, if the battery was charged and this happened, it has nothing to do with the alternator. Either we have a loose connection, or the starter motor is going bad. When you hear the one-click, does it sound like it's under the hood and could be coming from the starter?

Please recheck battery cables and follow the ground wire from the battery to the engine block and confirm it is clean, tight, and undamaged.

Next, the wiring schematic below for the starting system was one page in length. I had to cut it in half to make it readable for you. I did overlap the two so you can follow from one to the next.

If you are trying to bypass the ignition just to confirm the starter is good, see pic 3 below. That is the starter relay. When you turn the key to the start position, power is sent through pin 86 to 85's ground. When that happens, the relay is actuated allowing power that is constant at pin 30 (Fuse 9) to be transferred through pin 87. That goes to the S terminal on the starter engaging it. So, if you use a jumper wire between 30 and 87, you bypass the relay and ignition and power the starter. It should crank.

I'm here if you have questions or need help, so let me know. Also, the clunk you hear when hitting bumps is likely the strut plates (mounts) at the top of the assembly. It is a very common issue and not expensive to fix.

Let me know what I can do to help.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

I suspect the solenoid on the starter is bad or going bad. Do this. Have a helper turn the key to the start position while you check for power at the starter's yellow wire with a gray tracer. That is the trigger wire. It should only receive 12v when the key is in the start position. If you get 12v and the starter clicks, replace the starter motor.

Let me know what you find. Also, if you have questions, let me know. I'll be here for a while tonight.

Take care,

Joe

Hi,

No problem whatsoever. You are correct. At the starter, there will be a larger wire direct from the battery which has 12v all the time. It will be a much heavier gauge wire and should be red in color. Avoid shorting that wire. In addition to that wire will be the yellow wire with a gray tracer. It will be smaller in size and will have 0v at all times other than when the key is fully in the start position.

If you find it does get 12v when the key is in the start position, the starter is the most likely problem and will need to be replaced.

Please let me know what you find or if there is anything I can help with. Don't feel sorry if you have questions. That's why I'm here. Also, if the starter needs to be replaced, I'll get you through that process as well.

Take care and I'll watch for your reply.

Joe

If it starts, you should be fine. It's the restarting that is a concern. I certainly don't want you to break down with your child, so we need to get this figured out.

Let me know when it happens. If I was there, it would be much easier, but that isn't possible.

Take care and let me know.

Be careful,

Joe

Hi,

I understand. Please know that I'm here if something happens. At least I can try my best to help this way.

Take care and I wish you a Happy New Year!

Joe