No start

P0016 - Cam and Crank correlation out of specification. This code is a PIA at times. It basically says that the camshaft and crank are out of time with each other but that difference can be very small. It usually is not a bad sensor as the computer uses those to determine if the code should be set.

In this case check the camshaft adjustment valve. (adjuster for the cam timing) Be sure it has power first, battery voltage key on. Then unplug it and check the resistance across the terminals (5-9 ohms) if not in spec replace valve. If you have proper voltage at valve, proper resistance across terminals and good ground. Test the signal wire from the ECM to the control valve, 1 ohm or less resistance in that wire. If that all checks out the ECM has a fault.

A good scan tool to actually look at what the computer sees and even better a scope and known good waveform would tell you a lot.

Would this valve issue cause a no start and do you have a location for that?

Right on the front of the engine and it could shut down the engine if the difference is high enough.

i guess i am missing it. are you talking about the camshaft adjuster magnet?

basically i am getting a no start and not sure where else to turn. I have placed TDC again and about to remove the upper cover again to check the location on the timing marks on the camshafts. I am unsure what else to do. I will check the adjuster. I just need to figure out the no start and the code that came back was the corralation code but the chain is still intact and I can spin the engine and watch it and no slack can be seen.

I was told the car would still start if the timing is out a little just run terriable or make noise I have changed them before on other european cars and they all started. That is why i am baffled at times.

might be out of time how do I check for that? Where are the camshaft marks when TDC and how to ensure you are TDC

The camshaft timing valve is a solenoid that controls the cam timing. If it goes out of whack the cam timing will be way off. The engine doesn't run because the cam and crank are way out of time. Some will run if they are bad others won't.
Run the tests on it and see if it's bad.

the problem is I have the timing cover off the top part now and i think i am tdc and the lines are not equal on both cams. The lines for the back of the sprocket line up though. do u have insight on what I need to do to verify timing is spot on?

I also do not see the valve onlything I see remotely like that is the magnetic plate on the outside of the cover and that controls the oil.

The solenoid that controls the oil is the part that changes the cam timing and the phasing with the crank. If it is bad it will throw the cam timing off, which is why the marks don't seem to be correct. It is the part that you test to be sure it is actually changing the cam timing. The ECM looks at the cam position relative to the crank. If the cam is supposed to be fully advanced at a certain point relative to the crankshaft but that valve isn't working, you get the P0016 code.

There is a TSB on that code as well - Basically says to test the control part first, then if it is OK to check the cam timing because of timing tensioner failure.

TSB 15-12-01

Thanks will check today also how do u check for cam timing which will tell me if timing jumped correct

At tdc left cam marks are around 12 o'clock lines up right cam about 16 links away but marks around the 3 o'clock

When I test resistance also it drops to lik 3 ohms and then climbs up to line 19 and then going to 1 not sure if I'm testing correctly

Can I jump it to see if the valve pin pushes in or out if I turn it the pin goes in and out. And the part on the cam I can press in and out freely so that's not stuck

To test ohms - Set meter to ohms. Touch the probes to the contacts on the valve. Read what the meter says in ohms. 5-9 ohms is good. Lower or higher is bad.

Timing marks are not line up marks. They line up with colored links on the chain. Like the attached image. Find the colored links and line them up with the marks on the cams and crank.

Above should read "Timing marks are not line up with block markings".

the colored chain marks do not line up with the cam marks not even close like at all but was told by a vw tech that its only like that once installed and then they move once the engine is ran. and i conducted the test many times and the ohms start higher drop to really low and sometimes climb up really high. so thats why i asked if i was doing sometihng wrong

The marks will line up but it may take a few turns of the crank to bring them back in line. There is a way to check by measuring the marks.
Rotate the crank in running direction until the mark on the dampener lines up with the mark on the lower timing chain cover. Then measure the dimensions in the drawings. Each tooth "off" from correct = 6mm difference.

Sounds like the control solenoid is bad. The readings shouldn't bounce around, it's only a long coil of wire inside.

So your saying my timing is probably good but the reason it is not starting and giving me the code is from the adjuster valve

Also I have the metal silver one

the colored links do not line up I HAVE spun it over and over and they never line up

Not a good thing. Sounds like it has slipped time as well as having a bad controller. The question now is, how far did it slip and did it do a lot of damage?


This might be helpful.
https://redlinespeedworx.com/2-0t-tsi-timing-chain-failure/

The cam marks line up on both sides meaning the front mark and the back of the cam it just the dark chain marks haven't got them to line up yet and when they are at the 12 o'clock position the cam marks are way off but could that cobtoller cause a no start the reason saying is it never had issue Drive a while and then boom wouldn't start like going to the store and came out no start

And everything turns smoothly so just hard to justify the timing is bad and slipped a lot then with nothing happening just shut off car went to get back in and nothing

OK let's ignore the cams and go back to a "good" engine and start from scratch. I approached it as you had tested other items and had gotten to the code/timing as being the problem.

Run a compression test. It will tell you quick if the timing is off. If the compression is good then, Are you hearing the fuel pump prime? Run a pressure test and see what pressure the pump is putting out. Stick a spark tester on it and be sure it has spark.

I have spark tested that and can hear the pump prime I got that code from the shop who looked at it first that's why I asked. I ordered the valve adjuster that was bad

OK, I'd probably wait until you get the adjuster. Install it, and see if it will start. If it doesn't then run a compression and leak down test. If you wanted you could get the timing procedure and reset it using the parts you have now. That would probably give you the best shot. Be sure if you do that, check the tensioner first. They do fail a lot. Not sure what you have for information but these would get you the same info that shops use. I prefer Mitchell but don't let that sway your decision.

http://www.eautorepair.net/app/YearsMakes.asp (Mitchell1)
http://alldatadiy.com/
https://www.chiltondiymanuals.com/

So basically that will walk me through how to set timing and even replace chain step by step. And I am going to install and see before I move further

Yep. It has the complete procedure. It tells you a couple "special" tools are needed. Those are basically items to hold the chains in place as you work around them. You can use wire, tie wraps, string to do the same thing.

You mean the oil chains and other ones not the cam ones because don't they have to come off to reset timing

The tools just hold the chains as you work so you can get them into place without needing three hands. You'll see what I mean when you look at the book procedure.
It's like the special tool they have to hold the tensioner compressed for installation. The "correct" tool is nothing but a hardened pin with a rubber cap. Great if you're going to do hundreds of cars and don't want to have tool wear, but a common nail will do the job for a LOT less money.

Now when I spin the engine it will not let me go any further than a certain point about TDC also cant find the step by step process to replace timing chains on Mitchell

So you put the chains in time but the engine won't turn over? Sounds like it is now either out of time or it did bend some valves.

Mitchell buries camshafts under Engine Mechanical -> Mechanical -> Cylinder Head _> removal. Then the engine code.

Which book exactly did you get, I'll see if the ones we access is different.
I know it's a 2012 VW Turbo 2.0 which I believe is engine code CCTA or CBFA. Which code are you using?

not sure will check. No havent put the chain on getting ready to replace and retime. I need to know the steps to do so. The engine was rotating fine by hand for the time I had it. I rotated a few more now and saw the chain skip teeth and now hits a dead spot and cant rotate anymore is it becuase of the timing is way off causing the valve to hit how do I correct this?

also how do I line the cams back up so they are both around the 12 oclock area so I can put the chain on again dont really understand the steps on mitchell I found them

and will nails work on the oil chain as well?

how do I get the cam sprockets to line up do I do it with the chain on or off also how do I fix only being able to spin the engine so far with the timing the way it is now to reset it?

guess im asking what if I CANT spin to tdc also what if marks dont line up at the top when tdc? how do I reset the cam sprockets then to set timing

I think the timing is so off causing the valve to hit how do i correct that and can I move the cam to realign with the chain off or on?

OK, the cams are out of time so the valves are hitting. What you need to do is look at the lobes on each cam, which ones are pushing valves down? Find those, then determine which piston is up and hitting the valves. Gently rotate the crank backwards to allow you to move the cam(s) until the timing marks are correct on the crank and cams. It may take moving each a few times to prevent issues OR you could unbolt the cam saddles and lift the cams, rotate the crank to the proper position, install the cams in the proper positions. Then deal with installing the chains. Which is the way I would do it. Faster, easier and less chance of damage.

I've used wire to hold the chains up, nail(s) for the tensioners, Zip ties and other items to hold parts when I run out of hands.