No heat, hoses look to be good?

Tiny
TRAVBARRETT73
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  • 1997 DODGE DAKOTA
  • 3.9L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 137,000 MILES
The vehicle listed above is V6 Magnum.

Coolant level is fine--just flushed and filled, once before changing the thermostat (and t-stat housing), and again after changing those two parts.

Heater hoses look to be in good shape. Upper radiator hose is hot, lower is lukewarm.

Heater core was replaced in 2013. Both hoses, to and from the heater core are hot.

Blower motor is powerful.

Once the engine has been running, air to defrost came out the warmest, though not nearly as warm as it should be. Next warmest was to the floor (again, unacceptable, as a norm). Dash vents blew flat-out cold air.

Trying to change things in order of cost/simplicity. It was overdue for flush/fill, so I did that first, hoping that anything clogging the system would get flushed. I replaced the thermostat/housing next. Still no dice. I was going to change the Blend Door Mechanism (Haynes Manual calls it the "Floor-Defrost Door Actuator), but I cannot find the part anywhere online: RockAuto, usual parts stores, Amazon, etc. I have not pulled the lower dash yet, to see if there is more than one actuator, but one online source said--given the year/make/model--there is typically only one. Again, finding that one has been a challenge.

I'm looking for other ideas, as my local shop wants about $150 to even look at it. I'm getting so frustrated that I might just pay that, but my fear is that the answer will be, "Well, it could be this or this or this. No knowing for sure, until we tear it apart and see, " which would likely end in a $1,500 bill instead.

Any ideas?
Monday, February 17th, 2025 AT 1:13 PM

23 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
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Yep, it sounds like there is an air bubble inside the heater core, I would start with the engine cold and remove the cooling system cap, then start the engine and jack up the front of the truck while having the heater on full blast. Watch for air bubbles to come out, then while the engine is still running raise the rear of the truck and do the same thing.

Here is a video and guide that may help as well:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SNRb6pSwYuU

Please go over this guide as well:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-heater-not-working

There is no temperature blend door actuator, there is a control cable what may have gotten loose or broken, here is the location so you can check it out. Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens.

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Tuesday, February 18th, 2025 AT 12:03 PM
Tiny
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Thank you, Ken, for your reply. I will try the heater core evacuation trick as soon as I am able! I've had long days, as of late, but I hope to give it a shot today after work.

In the meantime, here are some photos of my own. One is from my Haynes Manual; another is a screenshot of the part from Mopar; the rest are from the underside of my dash (note the silver metallic part that matches the manual and the Mopar part). Are you saying that this part is not an actuator?

From the looks of your images, the Temperature Control Cable might originate at the top of the part that I have pictured. I have no idea what the guts of the Floor-Defrost Door Actuator looks like, but I wonder if what is inside is mechanical and has somehow failed.
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Wednesday, February 19th, 2025 AT 6:33 AM
Tiny
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Also, when I checked yesterday, after driving the truck on the highway for 15 minutes, the lower radiator hose wasn't even lukewarm; it was cold. Is it possible that changing that lower hose would do some good? Even though the coolant was professionally flushed/filled twice recently, is it possible that there could still be a blockage in the lower radiator hose that would contribute to getting weak or no heat inside the cab?

Again, I will try the quick burp test later, but I'm just trying to give the fullest possible picture so that diagnosis is easier.
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Wednesday, February 19th, 2025 AT 6:47 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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Yes, that is the actuator for the mode operation, the temperature door is controlled by a cable. Does the engine overheat? The lower hose will be cooler than the top hose but not cold. You may have a water pump issue not circulating the coolant, but the engine should overheat if this was true, can I ask if both heater hoses are hot?
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Wednesday, February 19th, 2025 AT 10:42 AM
Tiny
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The engine does not overheat. In fact, I wonder if the engine gets warm enough, as a norm. The OE t-stat was rated to 195 or 200 degrees. The replacement is rated for 185, which is where the engine seems to run, anyway (based on the gauge). I was hoping the new t-stat would improve the heating, but there has been no difference, so far (at the moment). So, I guess the water pump is not the issue (fingers crossed).

The top hose gets hot, but the bottom hose does not. Both of the small hoses that insert into the firewall (for the core) are hot, as well. Not sure if it's worth noting, but none of the three hot hoses are so hot a person would burn themselves by touching the hoses.

As for the actuator, when I switch from defrost to vent to floor, the air successfully blows through the desired openings. It is curious to me, however, that the air coming out of those openings differs in temperature. The warmest setting is defrost, the second warmest is floor; the vent blows cold air. Odd.
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Wednesday, February 19th, 2025 AT 11:16 AM
Tiny
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Good morning, Ken. I tried the trick to burp the heater core. It didn't work. I watched the fluid carefully the whole time--no air bubbles when I turned on the heat, when I adjusted the blower fan, when I accelerated, when I raised the front of the truck, or when I raised the back--I mean, I watched as best I could from the rear position and in between pushes on the jack's lever. More notably, there is no difference in the vehicle's performance.

I guess I'll have to check that cable next. Could I ask you where you got those pictures? The one in which you drew the red arrow is exactly like a pic from my Haynes manual, but the other one I cannot find in my manual. From the looks of it, I'm going to have to take apart the whole stinkin' dashboard in order to get to that cable, so if there's another resource out there with some additional pics and information, I'd love to have access to it.
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Thursday, February 20th, 2025 AT 6:31 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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With the truck off, you should be able to work the temperature controls and hear the door working.
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Thursday, February 20th, 2025 AT 10:16 AM
Tiny
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Yes, I can hear movement when the truck is off. When it is on, the airflow goes through the proper path, according to the mode-selector.
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Friday, February 21st, 2025 AT 3:48 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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Are both heater hoses hot when the engine is hot? I would try re-flushing the heater hose by removing the hoses and blowing water through it using a garden hose. Can I ask if a head gasket sealer has been used on the truck?
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Friday, February 21st, 2025 AT 9:46 AM
Tiny
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Only the top hose gets hot; the bottom stays cold, even after the engine has been running.

I've been told in past visits to the mechanic that the head gasket is leaking, but the leakage is minimal. Would that explain why the engine does not get to its stated operating temperature? I've read in many sources that it's supposed to run at about 200 degrees. If the dashboard gauge is accurate and I do not have one of those infrared thermometers it gets to about 160-175.

It seems that still wouldn't explain inconsistent heating (more like it would always be lukewarm, regardless of the vent it comes from), but it's obvious I'm not a mechanic!
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Friday, February 21st, 2025 AT 11:14 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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The thermostat controls the engine temperature but you said you replaced that already, correct?
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Saturday, February 22nd, 2025 AT 11:29 AM
Tiny
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Correct: I replaced the thermostat. That was my second attempt at fixing the problem; the first was getting the flush/fill.
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Monday, February 24th, 2025 AT 11:25 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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So you replaced the thermostat, and the bottom hose is cold even after running for 30 minutes?
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Monday, February 24th, 2025 AT 11:48 AM
Tiny
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Well, my drive to work is only about 17 minutes, but it includes driving at highway speeds in excess of 70 MPH.
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Monday, February 24th, 2025 AT 12:01 PM
Tiny
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But yes, it's still cold after driving home from work.
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Monday, February 24th, 2025 AT 12:01 PM
Tiny
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Update: I had the truck up on ramps yesterday. After running it for only a short time, the lower radiator hose did, in fact, get warm, but I'd hardly call it hot. It would seem, then, that the lower rad hose is inconsistently warm, at best.
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Tuesday, February 25th, 2025 AT 8:19 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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It seems like the cooling system does not have a thermostat, to be clear this is what you replaced, correct? Check out the images (below).
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Tuesday, February 25th, 2025 AT 9:53 AM
Tiny
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The truck most definitely has a thermostat. Yes, I replaced both the thermostat itself, along with the housing (because doing the latter seemed easier than trying to scrape the old gasket off the existing one).
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Tuesday, February 25th, 2025 AT 12:09 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Can I ask what the outside temperature is? Do you live in sub 0 temperatures?
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Wednesday, February 26th, 2025 AT 8:39 AM
Tiny
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It can get that cold, but not as a rule or for very long.

When this all started, in early February, temperatures were pretty harsh--windchills in single digits or sub-zero--but today it is going to get near 60 degrees here in Columbus, Ohio. On 2/24, when I found the lower rad hose was warm, it was probably in the low-50s.
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Wednesday, February 26th, 2025 AT 8:48 AM

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