No electric power in the dash

Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
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Yes. Same pins but I just want to be sure, you touch one lead to the pin and the other to a known good ground. If you have continuity or resistance then you have a short to ground. Then do the same to the other pin.
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Monday, May 3rd, 2021 AT 8:05 PM
Tiny
KULJIT SINGH MANN
  • MEMBER
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Hello Kenny,

I have checked the DLC at pin 6 and 11 for continuity below are the results.

Key off
Pin 6
13.6 than 6.7k keeps changing between these numbers
Pin 11
23.4, 23.5

Keys on
Pin6
Starts from 57k keeps changing upto 103

Pin 11
26.O k but changes sometimes between 22k to 28 k
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Friday, May 14th, 2021 AT 8:31 AM
Tiny
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I am sorry. I was not clear. I want you to check each pin, 6 and 11, for continuity to ground.

Meaning touch one lead to pin 6 and the other lead to a known good ground.

Then touch the lead to pin 11 and the other to a known good ground. You should not have continuity. It should read OL on your meter. If you have resistance then you have a short to ground on that circuit.

Hopefully that makes sense. Thanks
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Saturday, May 15th, 2021 AT 5:11 PM
Tiny
KULJIT SINGH MANN
  • MEMBER
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Hi,

I have checked both pins 6 and 11 for continuity and both have resistance in them and the show the values of 6.0k on pin 6 and 28.6 k on pin 11.
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Monday, May 24th, 2021 AT 8:16 AM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
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Okay. It looks fine. That is the ground through the modules so it is not shorted to ground.

Can you recap where you are currently? Do you still have the U codes that you had prior?

I suspect there is an issue with the BCM at this point but we need to run through this testing to confirm it. It looks like you are going to need to run a network test but take a look at this info and let me know what you think.

Thanks
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Tuesday, May 25th, 2021 AT 6:27 PM
Tiny
KULJIT SINGH MANN
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I did a scan again and I am going to attach the results. The attachments you sent does make a sense about BCM. Let me know about the network tests you want me to do. Seems interesting something new to learn.
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Thursday, May 27th, 2021 AT 3:42 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
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Okay. That is good that it is the same codes. So the network test is not something that we can do. It is a scan tool function but it is not something that the generic scan tools will do. This is an OEM or equivalent tool.

Take a look at the attachment below and it is M2 that talks about it. What I would do is just check around for a shop that has a tool that can do it and just have them run through this testing and pay the diag charge rather then buying the tool. Unless you are going to be doing this type of diagnostic work more frequently it really is not worth buying. They are normally a few hundred dollars at a minimum and you will pay less to have a shop do it as you will likely not need to do it again.

If you want to purchase one, then just make sure it is capable of running CAN network testing. You may want to call the company and ask just to make sure.

Let me know if you have questions on this.
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+1
Friday, May 28th, 2021 AT 7:13 PM
Tiny
KULJIT SINGH MANN
  • MEMBER
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Do you have any brand or model that you can reccomend? I will compare the cost between buying and getting it diagnosed. I am factoring in tow costs as well.
Thanks
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Saturday, May 29th, 2021 AT 2:55 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
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We actually have a video on this. Here is a link:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=InIlnsjOVFA

However, based on your codes, I am not sure you need it. Basically what the U0140 in the ABS is saying is that it is not getting the proper message from the BCM.

This could be due to the communication network, the BCM, or the ABS module.

If you read through the test and make the assumption that the BCM will pass the network test which means it is not a wiring issue or other network issue then it leads you to replacing the BCM after you answer the remaining questions.

So you can get this tool as it does a lot but replacing the BCM may be the solution to these codes. Depending on the price of the BCM, I may just go with that rather than a scan tool that you may not sure all the time.

Run through the testing and confirm you are seeing the same thing.
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Sunday, May 30th, 2021 AT 7:16 PM
Tiny
KULJIT SINGH MANN
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Hi,

I am thinking of just changing the BCM. I have called dealership they are about $250.00 plus taxes and couple of hundred bucks for tow. Any thoughts where should I source BCM from and getting it programmed? Thank you for your help.
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Sunday, June 13th, 2021 AT 1:37 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
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Unfortunately there is no one source so what I would do is just do an internet search because I suspect you will find a company that can send it to you already programmed. This is pretty common for these BCMs and PCMs as they are pretty commonly replaced.

Please let me know if you can't find anything and we can take another course of action.
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Monday, June 14th, 2021 AT 8:11 PM
Tiny
KAYMANN1
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Hello,

I did a search on car-part. Com for a used BCM and it doesn't specifically point to BCM. Under computer for non engine there's so many options. Could you please let me what to look under or what will be the part number? I called lincoln and they gave me a part# BL1Z15604B. Please let me know is the part number we are looking for? Also please let me know the location of BCM in the car. There are 2 computers on the driver side and 1 in the passenger side kick box. Please let me know which one I should be looking for. I asked one local company who program the BCM and they said they need 2 keys to program is that true. I called Lincoln they said its not actually programming they take information from the old BCM and put it into new one. Little confused.

Thank you
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Thursday, June 17th, 2021 AT 1:59 PM
Tiny
KULJIT SINGH MANN
  • MEMBER
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I called one wrecker and provided with the part no# Lincoln gave me and they said it is a Theft-locking, remote keyless entry&alarm computer
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Thursday, June 17th, 2021 AT 2:37 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
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I think the issue you are having is the body control module is a pretty generic term. On your vehicle it is called the smart junction box.

Take a look at the info attached that gives more detail on this.
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Friday, June 18th, 2021 AT 7:18 PM
Tiny
KAYMANN1
  • MEMBER
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Hi,
I went to dealer with my VIN and the VIN of the vehicle the wrecker gave to ask if the parts are interchangeable between these 2 VINs and told that I am planning to buy SJB for my vehicle and they gave me a part number BL1Z 15604-B and told me parts are interchangeable between them and the part number is same on both. When I took out the kick panel fuse box which I assume is called SJB the part number is different on it which is BL1T 15604 AA. I will take the fuse box to the dealer to show them the part number on it. Just wanted to confirm with you that the kick panel fuse box is the SJB unless I am missing something. Please advise me.
Thank you.
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Thursday, June 24th, 2021 AT 1:30 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
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Those are not identical part numbers but more than likely there was change made to the part and when that happens they change the part number slightly.

I suspect they are correct that they are interchangable. However, they should be able to confirm that by checking that part number.

Take a look at the diagram for the location of this. Thanks
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Thursday, June 24th, 2021 AT 8:05 PM
Tiny
KAYMANN1
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Hi,

I just bought brand new SJB. Is it complicated to copy data from old SJB and transfer to new SJB? What kind of equipment do I need to do it?
Thank you
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Tuesday, July 6th, 2021 AT 5:58 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
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There is a process. You need to upload the current SJB info and then put it into the new one. You can do it when without uploading the info but either way it requires a scan tool that is capable of performing this function.

Attached is the process that you will need to follow. If you don't have a scan tool then we will need to find a shop that can perform this for you.
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Wednesday, July 7th, 2021 AT 5:39 PM

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