No electric power in the dash

I understand you checked fuses but we need to double check fuse 26 and 29 in the smart junction box. These are what feed the cluster so if the fuses are fine, we need to check power on these two wires at the cluster.

You should have 12 volts when the key on. However, I am thinking the SJB is the issue with the key not coming out as well.

Let's start with this before you replace the SJB because we need a little more proof first.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

I am not sure I understand why you are checking power at the ignition. Is the ignition switch operating? I thought the issue was just all these other components were not operating. If they are not, then we need to go to something that is not working and check power. I suspect you will not have power and if not, then we need to trace it back to find where there is power or to the SJB.

I still think there is an issue with this as it is what supplies the power to these components. Let me know what you find with one of these things that is not working or let me know if I am not understanding the issue. Thanks.

Not if you have power to it. The SJB would be if all these items did not have power but if you checked power and it is there at the ignition switch then we need to do this testing. Please see the attached. Basically you are putting your test meter or test light in these pins and putting the key in each position. The light should light or have resistance (ohms) when the chart says closed circuit. All open circuit rows on the chart the light should be off or your meter should say OL.

Okay. Those are all pointing towards a loss of communication issue. However, that many codes may be due to unhooking some connectors for testing.

It appears this issue happens enough that I would suggest clearing all the codes and then getting it to act up again just to see which of these codes come back. The reason is, you have airbag codes in there as well and that is most likely a wiring issue but would make more sense as they set when you had some connectors unhooked.

Let us know and we can go from there. Thanks

Sounds great. Thanks for the update. We will wait to hear back. Thanks

This is a network issue as I suggested above. Here is a guide that talks about this:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/can-scan-controller-area-network-easy

These are very difficult to figure out but we need to start with checking voltage at the DLC on pin 6 and 11. This is the high speed network and it has two legs. When those voltages are added together they should be 5 volts. However, they are split and will be around 2.7 and 2.3 volts.

I attached the wiring diagram for this. Depending on the voltages we will need to remove each of these modules one at a time until the voltage returns to normal but let start with finding out what they are.

Thanks

You can but it is not going to give you these voltage readings. Here is a video on how to do that but again, once you start to get into diagnosing this, you are going to have to get the voltages:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=InIlnsjOVFA

So I would do this scan if he has a tool but either way I think we need to get the voltages and go from there. Thanks

Unfortunately it appears the CAN + is shorted to ground and that would explain most all your issues.

These voltages need to be 2.7 and 2.3 volts so in order to find the short we need to prove that out first.

These for continuity to ground. You do this by taking your meter and putting it on resistance (ohms) or if you have a continuity selection then that is what we need to test. This will tell us if this circuit has a path to ground. It should not have continuity or any resistance. Just let me know what this measurement is and we can try to narrow it down but it is not going to be easy.