No crank no start after overheating, OBD2 faulty or ECU faulty

Tiny
JOSH TORRES
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 MAZDA PROTEGE
  • 2.0L
  • 4 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 190,000 MILES
I've been having multiple issues with the car. The door actuators to all doors work when they want to, they just make a buzzing sound. Depending if the cars ignition is on the start or off position some will work. The A/C stopped working and appears to have a leak and when I had recharged it the car overheats. I'm assuming because the fans are not turning on either. The car belts squeal loud when I start the engine at times not all the time but then as I drive, I push on the gas, and it gets louder and then just stops squealing.
the car gives a rotten egg smell and a rattling sound at times The overheating happens randomly and sometimes the temperature gauge will read half way but when I turn off the car and get out I'll hear a bubbling sound which I found comes from the air bubble being pushed into the reservoir when I connect my scan tool to the ob2 port will connect and turn on but then when I move the scanner it turns off not all the time, but I do get it to read the codes by holding it still while it read but if I move it turns off but I'm not sure if it's giving me the right codes all the time. Because it sometimes goes away and then later comes back. Now it says it reads no codes but maybe because I think my kid erased the codes by mistake. The codes before were p0660 something about a turbine speed sensor and the other. I'm not sure but it said lean mixture on bank one or something like that. I want to say p0170 would have to double check but I know it was something about the fuel air mixture any. It started when I was driving one day and the car just began to overheat out of nowhere, I let it cool down topped off with water later bought coolant. While driving it began to overheat and then turn off on me I found that it was a tensioner that fell. Off and when I replaced. It everything began to function properly but later I started noticing coolant on the ground but couldn't find the leak it started leaking inside the passenger floor thinking it was the heater core but the heater was still giving hot air, I reverse flushed the core but only clean water came out the other side no broken up dirt nothing Soni but everything back but I'm afraid I may have clogged the core because it began to overheat and when I turned the heater on to help. The engine it was fresh not cold but a low temp air coming out later it started working again because it would not over heat confused about the water on the passenger floor, it had an also been raining a lot thinking maybe the drains are plugged I found what appeared to be the drain for when it rains and when I stick a pipe cleaner in there nothing either came out or any dirt or debris on the pipe it stopped leaking in the floor and it stopped leaking outside when I bought a coolant sealer. Still confused about what cause the water on the floor. I was told it could have been my A/C that leaked water to my floor and since my A/C stopped working I gave up on that everything was fine until I tried finding the leak on the A/C and the car overheated. I stopped left it alone let it cool down and continued to use the car normally. Several days later on my way to work the car starts making that rattling sound halfway to my job the car seems to lose power. I look at the gauges everything seems fine but I make my way to the shoulder because once I let off the gas and attempted to accelerate again it would lag big time and the rattle sound would get louder. I looked at the gauge and then the car temperature move up quickly, so I began to pull over and turn on the heater at the same time. I pulled over no hot air came out so I turned it off thinking that would make it work harder, I opened the hood to allow it to vent and I figured to turn on the heaters anyway so I did. It cooled down to about halfway when I attempted to start but it wouldn't it just made a sound that remind me of toy cars the ones. That you have to with your hand and arm rev up first for. A little then just out it down let go and watch it take off that's how it sounds when I start it. I was told maybe it's the head gasket. So, to check I removed the ignition coils struggled on C1 the rubber boot seemed a bit worm out but I found no water in the well on C2. I struggled to remove the coil pack and unfortunately pulled to hard I broke half in there but I was able to pull the rest out and the bottom was melted the ceramic or plastic part. I took off the spark plug found no water on the plug either but I stopped there because I didn't want to break the other coil pack on c4 which also I'm struggling to get out. I know it's a lot, but I'm hoping you help.
Friday, November 5th, 2021 AT 2:44 PM

24 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
Hi,

There are many different things I am questioning after reading your post. The idea that you saw air bubbles from the overflow, lost heat, and the sound you described sounds like a few different possibilities.

The idea you saw and heard the bubbles when the engine wasn't overheating leads me to believe you do in fact have a bad head gasket. It sounds as though compressed air was entering the cooling system. Next, the loss of heat could be low coolant or air in the system.

Next, the way you described the rattle and smell could indicate the catalytic converter internally is loose. That could result in partial plugging at times causing internal damage to the valves. Here is a link that explains common symptoms related to a faulty catalytic converter:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/bad-catalytic-converter-symptoms

What I really need you to do is record it cranking and running so I can hear it. Also, I do recommend testing for a head gasket issue. Here is a link showing how to check. Remember, a bad head gasket doesn't always cause coolant to enter the combustion chamber.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/head-gasket-blown-test

The idea that it sounds the way you described sounds like a compression issue, that's why I'm asking you to record it for me. If you want, here is a link that explains how to test compression:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Let me know. Also, the code P0170 doesn't exist for this vehicle. Interestingly, there is a P0171 and P0172, both of which deal with fuel mixture. If you could confirm which one it is, that may help.

The P660 isn't a turbine sensor. It's related to the Variable Inertia Charging System (VICS), a variant of the variable-length intake manifold. There is a shutter valve that controls the VICS via engine vacuum. See pic below.

I'm not 100% sure where you want to start. I feel hearing it may help me.

Let me know.

Joe

See pic below.
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Friday, November 5th, 2021 AT 9:34 PM
Tiny
JOSH TORRES
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Hello, thank you for helping me I really do appreciate any and all. Okay, so, I'm sorry for the late reply and I verified the codes they are p0660 and p0171 and I apologize beforehand for the quality and length of the video I was trying to get everything. I hope it helps.
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Monday, November 8th, 2021 AT 6:20 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

The 660 is specific to the VICS which I mentioned above. The 171 indicates a lean fuel mixture. The first thing to check is the vacuum supply to the VICS. If the hose is good and provides an engine vacuum when the engine is running, get a vacuum tester (most parts stores will lend you one) and place a vacuum on the VICS shutter valve as pictured above. It should hold a vacuum.

If you have a vacuum issue with that component, it will cause a lean fuel mixture and set both codes.

I attached the diagnostics for testing below.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

See pics below.
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Monday, November 8th, 2021 AT 5:37 PM
Tiny
JOSH TORRES
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
Were you able to see the video?
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Sunday, November 14th, 2021 AT 12:49 AM
Tiny
JOSH TORRES
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
I've been struggling to upload a video. I edited it for time hoping it will upload this time if it does. I hope it helps out. I haven't been able to try the vacuum test but I will today.
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Sunday, November 14th, 2021 AT 9:09 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

First of all, excellent job on the video. Very informative. I do see something in the cylinders. Have you checked the engine oil to see if there is any contamination?

Also, I suspect the cylinder head needs to be removed. However, I have a question. When you cranked the engine in the video, were the spark plugs removed?

Let me know.

Joe
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Sunday, November 14th, 2021 AT 8:23 PM
Tiny
JOSH TORRES
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
No sir. When the car first overheated, I pulled over to allow it to cool down after it did about halfway, I attempted to start the car and it made the exact same noise you hear in the video. As far at that exact of that exact sound meaning at the time of the video yes, the spark plugs were in but remember the one of the ignition coils is broken. Could it just be that it need new spark plugs and coils to turn over? When you say the cylinder head what exactly do you mean? The head gasket?
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Thursday, November 18th, 2021 AT 5:55 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

I listened to the video again. It sounds like the engine is either out of time or a timing belt broke. When it turns, it sounds like there is no compression. Coils or plugs won't cause that. Is it possible for you to record it cranking longer so I can confirm for you? Or perform a compression test and see if it's low. Here is a link showing how it's done:

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/occasionally-wont-start#last

Let me know. If I could just hear it cranking a little longer and louder, I should be able to tell.

Let me know.

Joe
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Thursday, November 18th, 2021 AT 6:44 PM
Tiny
JOSH TORRES
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
Hey Joe, I want to apologize. I haven't been able to post anything yet I'm still trying to fix the car still. I stopped to take care of some things. Any way I hope your still up for helping me out I'll post that video of the car cranking longer and the results of the compression test later to Tonight.
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Sunday, February 20th, 2022 AT 4:44 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

Absolutely I am here. Let me know what you find, and a video tells me a lot.

Take care,

Joe
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Sunday, February 20th, 2022 AT 8:50 PM
Tiny
JOSH TORRES
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
So, I did the compression test and I'm not sure if I did it right, but all cylinders were zero pressure. Below is the video of the car cranking.
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Monday, February 21st, 2022 AT 6:50 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
Josh,

The video didn't upload. However, if you are getting 0 psi, timing is likely off when the compression stroke is happening with a valve open. The good news is the 2.0L isn't an interference engine.

If you can, upload the video so I can reconfirm. Also, if I'm correct, you will need to check the timing belt to see if it has broken or has jumped time.

I attached a pic below showing where all the timing marks should be. Also, here is a link I need you to look through. Let me know if this is what you did.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Let me know.

Joe
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Monday, February 21st, 2022 AT 8:05 PM
Tiny
JOSH TORRES
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
Hey Joe, once again I apologize for the lateness. I'm still working on the car. Hope you can still help here's the video.
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Saturday, April 16th, 2022 AT 9:22 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Josh,

Yep, still here. Still no video. I'm not sure what is happening.

Let me know.

Joe
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Saturday, April 16th, 2022 AT 10:33 PM
Tiny
JOSH TORRES
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
Good morning. I've been struggling with posting the videos but hopefully it goes through this time.
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Tuesday, April 19th, 2022 AT 5:19 AM
Tiny
JOSH TORRES
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
Here's the compression test results. They uploaded. Finally! Thank you again for your help. I appreciate it and I apologize for the late and missing video replies. I hopes this helps and have a great day.
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Tuesday, April 19th, 2022 AT 5:23 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
Josh,

I never had anyone put so much effort into a video. Nice job! I just have one problem. It doesn't tell me the compression that was found. Also, can you record it cranking with the plugs installed and upload it for me to hear?

Let me know.

Joe
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Tuesday, April 19th, 2022 AT 5:10 PM
Tiny
JOSH TORRES
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
Good evening, Joe. The first video of just the car cranking does have the plugs installed. In fact, everything is installed as if it were ready to go for a drive. The results using the compression tool all came out with zero compression. I thought maybe it would be the tool So I tested the tool with an air compressor and it read right away. So, it's not the tool.
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Friday, May 6th, 2022 AT 10:19 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
Hi,

If you have 0 psi compression, it sounds like the timing is off and possibly bent valves. Did you upload a video of it cranking? It's not here.

If I recall, the 2.0 DOHC on this isn't an interference engine, so that is a good thing. What I suggest is to remove the valve cover so you can inspect the belt and if there are any issues with the cams.

Let me know. Pic 1 shows what I'm referring to and pic 2 shows the tightening sequence.

Let me know.

Joe

See pics below.
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+1
Saturday, May 7th, 2022 AT 8:52 PM
Tiny
JOSH TORRES
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
Hi Joe, happy 4th of July, long time no speak. I hope you're still with me. Lol anyways since the last time I have worked on my car I do have some questions but first let me fill you in I took the spark plugs off and all that good stuff took the valve cover off I'm not sure what I'm supposed to be looking for on the cams to see if they are in good shape. I'll send a picture. I am confused maybe you can clarify on both cams there is a letter I and e on them both cams have both I and E on them is that suppose to be there. Sorry, I'm not too sure about that also I noticed a lot of oil sludge around the alternator and back of the oil pan and I noticed that the alternator bolt is half on half off. Can that also play a part and why it wasn't starting? I'll send pictures of that too. I tried doing the bump start method to loosen the crank bolt however, it doesn't work. I'll send a video of that. I did notice the motor mount is broken, maybe that is the reason why the bump start method isn't working. Hopefully you can give me some pointers. Lastly, I did notice that the I and the e on the cams are very close so I try to move the crank a little to see if the I and the E would flush up together but before I did that, I noticed a lot of slack on top of the timing belt, is that a sign of something or is that normal? Maybe you can elaborate on that. Anyway, I hope you're enjoying your 4th of July. I appreciate your help I really do thank you for your patience and your time and I hope to hear from you soon.
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Monday, July 4th, 2022 AT 8:17 AM

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