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Engine not cranking over?

Tiny
HAILEEGRACE12
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 GMC YUKON
  • 5.3L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 175,000 MILES
I was waiting for my wife to come out of the store and parked in the shade on a pretty steep incline facing downhill and accidentally fell asleep when she came out and woke me, I panicked and immediately shut the car off. Well, it would not start back and was starting to overheat so from where I tried to start it back, it just went further and further down this incline until I was stuck. Couldn't go anywhere. So, when I tried starting it again. It was only cranking would fire up. I checked the Shrader valve on the fuel rail and nothing was coming out. But I could hear my pump running. So I thought maybe it didn't have enough fuel. Went and got fuel, I thought maybe it was the ignition switch, but I replaced it and didn't fix it.
put it in, and now it's not even cranking. I tried to just bypass the starter solenoid just to get it home and I could get it to crank that way but will not start up. Oh, and the fuel is gushing out at the rails now so that problem is fixed. Why won't it start up? I've been stuck here for 5 days now. Maybe the neutral safety switch? I just don't have any experience with those. Please help.
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Tuesday, June 25th, 2024 AT 9:14 AM

43 Replies

Tiny
HAILEEGRACE12
  • MEMBER
  • 35 POSTS
Also, I cannot figure out where this wire goes under by steering column!
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Tuesday, June 25th, 2024 AT 9:33 AM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 46,850 POSTS
The first thing I would do is lift the hood and check the fuses in the PDC (key on). Here is a guide to help you. Also try cranking the engine over in neutral, this can help test the gear range sensor, (neutral safety switch):

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Also please go over this guide can well:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Here are the fuse locations which you should check fuses: IGN a, IGN b, IGN e, and the crank fuse. There is also a starter relay you can try swapping out. I have also included the starter motor wiring diagrams so you can see how the system works. Check out the images (below). Please upload pictures or videos in your response to any problems so we can see what to help you with.

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Tuesday, June 25th, 2024 AT 11:55 AM
Tiny
HAILEEGRACE12
  • MEMBER
  • 35 POSTS
Okay, sorry for the late reply but I am still stuck on this. I have tried everything I can possibly think of the only logical explanation I can come up with is the security system is keeping it from cranking. I can pull the relay to the starter and jump it with a wire, and it will crank all day but won't start up. But it will not crank at the ignition. It's getting fuel to the rail I've checked every fuse and relay, I've checked that everything is getting voltage it should I've changed the neutral safety switch the ignition switch, the ignition cylinder and key, I've tried to relearn the key with no success, and when I hook a code reader to it, any code reader, it just says error. Please help me here I'm going insane!
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Monday, July 8th, 2024 AT 5:57 AM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 46,850 POSTS
Lets try resetting the alarm system.

Alarm Reset: Try resetting the alarm system. This can often be done by locking and unlocking the doors with the key or the key fob.

Passlock Relearn Procedure:

Turn the key to the "ON" position (don't start the engine).
Leave the key in the "ON" position for about 10 minutes until the security light stops flashing.
Turn the key to the "OFF" position and wait for a few seconds.
Repeat this process two more times (for a total of three cycles).
After the third cycle, turn the key to the "OFF" position, wait a few seconds, and then try starting the engine.

Please let us know what happens.
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Monday, July 8th, 2024 AT 10:33 AM
Tiny
HAILEEGRACE12
  • MEMBER
  • 35 POSTS
I did it and it stopped flashing but now it's just on continuously without the flashing. Everything else is just the same. Resetting the alarm didn't do anything either. Whoever had the truck before me took out the entire center console and I remember when I first got it, it would stall out if I hit those wires wrong and wouldn't start back. I have checked every one of them already to make sure no bare wire showing, and all are getting the voltage there are supposed to get and they all check out. Don't know if that helps.
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Monday, July 8th, 2024 AT 2:59 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 46,850 POSTS
Okay, do you have power at the IGN A, IGN E, IGN B and the crank fuse when the key is in the crank position? This guide can help us test them for power. Also, let's try swapping the starter relay out as well to see if anything changes.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Please go over this guide and get back to us.

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Tuesday, July 9th, 2024 AT 9:33 AM
Tiny
HAILEEGRACE12
  • MEMBER
  • 35 POSTS
I have power at all the fuses you listed also swapped the starter relay, no changes.
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Tuesday, July 9th, 2024 AT 4:05 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 46,850 POSTS
When the key is in the crank position do you have power to the purple wire at the starter?
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Thursday, July 11th, 2024 AT 10:03 AM
Tiny
HAILEEGRACE12
  • MEMBER
  • 35 POSTS
It took me a min to be for sure but there is power but not very much. I hooked it up to a secondary power source to make sure and only getting about 2 volts to the purple wire at the starter when the key is in the crank position.
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Thursday, July 11th, 2024 AT 8:16 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
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What happens if you put 12 volts to the starter? Also, is the battery good? I would remove the battery and have it checked at the autoparts store. The starter relay is what powers the solenoid when the key is cranked over.
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Friday, July 12th, 2024 AT 9:14 AM
Tiny
HAILEEGRACE12
  • MEMBER
  • 35 POSTS
I already had the battery check and if I pull the relay and use a jump wire, I can make the starter crank, but it will not start. Cranks really strong but doesn't even try to start up. I even tried it with starter fluid and no change from when I tried without it.
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Friday, July 12th, 2024 AT 9:18 AM
Tiny
HAILEEGRACE12
  • MEMBER
  • 35 POSTS
I have not tried putting 12v to that purple wire, isn't that just a data line?
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Friday, July 12th, 2024 AT 9:19 AM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
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If you check the wiring diagrams above, you can see the purple wire goes to the starter solenoid which is the trigger wire.
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Friday, July 12th, 2024 AT 9:26 AM
Tiny
HAILEEGRACE12
  • MEMBER
  • 35 POSTS
So, is that different from me jumping where the relay goes to get it to crank? Should I just run a line strait from the battery?
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Friday, July 12th, 2024 AT 9:48 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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Nope if you can jump the relay and it cranks then we are good. Does the security light flash when you crank it over?
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Friday, July 12th, 2024 AT 9:55 AM
Tiny
HAILEEGRACE12
  • MEMBER
  • 35 POSTS
It flashes as I'm turning the key just once but when I let go the light just stays on continuously. I tried the relearn procedure and first time I tried it, it went from staying on like it is now, to blinking. Then I tried once more and it's back to staying on continuously.
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Friday, July 12th, 2024 AT 9:57 AM
Tiny
HAILEEGRACE12
  • MEMBER
  • 35 POSTS
So I had a mechanic ( friend of a friend) tell me that I needed a high end scanner then I could erase some codes or something about the passlock, then I'd have to relearn my key and he said that would fix it. Heave you ever heard of that? So since I can get it to crank at the relay, and I'm getting fuel coming out at the rail (shrader valve) to me that would mean it would have to be something either in the security system /anti theft, or in the computer somewhere. I just don't know what else it could be and I'm fairly knowledgeable about cars especially these vortec engines. Any thoughts or advice?
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Friday, July 12th, 2024 AT 1:34 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 46,850 POSTS
It does sound like a security issue, I would try a hard system reboot to see if the system clears and if so you may need to have the key reprogrammed.

Here is a guide to help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/step-by-step-guide-performing-a-hard-system-reboot-for-your-vehicles-electronics-systems

Here is a video for the scanner that you need to retrieve the codes for the security system. You can get a CAN scanner (Controller Area Network) which will work on most cars from Amazon.

Here is a video to show you how:

https://youtu.be/u-4syLc-ifQ

Please go over these guides and get back to us.

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Saturday, July 13th, 2024 AT 10:07 AM
Tiny
HAILEEGRACE12
  • MEMBER
  • 35 POSTS
Okay, so, I did the hard reboot with no changes then I finally found a high-end CAN scanner but now there's a different issue. The truck will not communicate with either of the 5 scanners I've tried, and I also noticed the little green bar under there gears that indicate which one you are in. Is not there anymore. Is this all linked together? Idk what to do now.
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Wednesday, July 17th, 2024 AT 7:16 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
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That is a good clue, the gear range sensor could be not working. can you turn the key on without cranking or starting the engine then put the car in reverse to see if the reverse lights come on? Also, with the key on the dark green wire should have power when the car is in park.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Here is the location of the gear range sensor and how to change it out if needed.
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Thursday, July 18th, 2024 AT 10:56 AM

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