Injector Relay and PCM Driver Circuit

We just tried this. 106 has ground; so far we have checked everything. We have checked the crank sensor which we found at the top of the bell housing; the cam sensor, from what we understand, is in the distributor. We have switched out the distributor (with another used distributor). Is there a way to test the crank sensor?[/Quote:1e3e6bf40b]

Crank the engine over is the injectors clicking? Better comeback am fixing to go

BTW are you getting spark and correct fuel pressure.[/Quote:1e3e6bf40b]

The injectors are not clicking.

My son ran the car out of oil. The motor locked up. We had bought a used motor when we bought the car. We changed motors; plugged everything in; etc. The car would not start. Through toubleshooting and with your help, we determined that the injectors are not pulsing. The car will start, but as I stated before, only with carb cleaner or starter fluid, but will not stay started at all. We purchased another used computer; we have plugged, unplugged, and checked every ground wire there is. We have changed the distributor and located the crank sensor. We think that the crank sensor is good, but are not sure. Thank you very much for the help.[/Quote:1e3e6bf40b]

Do you have a reference voltage on the CPS, try cranking the engine and backprobe the signal wire are you gettin anything.

Checking CPS resistances:

Auto-166-204 ohms @ 77degs F
Manual-423-528 ohms @ " "

Check it and comeback

About the injectors maybe shot -never know. Are you getting fuel all the way to the rail or TBI unit.

Okay why don't you get a noid light and test the injector connectors.

The cam and crank sensors tells the computer the firing order position/the speed and position of the crankhaft-now the computer has to get an ignition signal in order for it to energize the injectors thru the quad driver. Could be when the ECM don't get the ignition signal equals to no injection for the purpose of the unburned fuel collecting in the exhaust to ruin the converter.[/Quote:1e3e6bf40b]

The CPS resistance, if we are testing it right, is at 531. It is a manual transmission. We are not sure what you are referring to when you say "backprobe the signal wire". We are getting fuel all the way to the rail. We have checked all of the fuel injectors. The power side is fine; but the pulse side nothing. Would it have something to do with the ignition relay? We don't know what the quad driver is. Is it something that we can check? Thanks again for all the help.[/Quote:1e3e6bf40b]

The quad driver is in the computer
How about the 5volts on the CPS wire do you have it?

At the CPS the black wire should have the 5volts when key is On. White is the signal back to the computer. To confrim it -disconnect the coolant temp. Sensor-check voltage at black wire on it do you have it.

Check injectors resistances should be 10-14ohms.

Now final approach on the wiring:

Turn ignition off-disconnect the ECM harness connector. Check continuity between ECM harness connector terminal No.102 Red/Black wire to injector harness wire, No.104 Green/Black wire to injector wire, No.107 yellow/blk, No.109 blue/Blk-

102/104/107/109 are all the pulsing wire going to the injector which is the grounding wire the ECM uses to pulse the Injs.

If no continuity repair or replace harness or connector- Continuity all there-we stop on the Injectors. The injectors okay were right back to ECM terminal/ harness/connectors for damage/corrosion.

Good Luck Gentlemen[/quote:1e3e6bf40b]

We do not have the 5 volts on the cps wire. There is also no voltage on the black wire on the coolant temp sensor.

We have continuity on the 102/104/107/109 wires.

Thanks again.[/Quote:1e3e6bf40b]

How about the white wire at CPS and brown/yellow at CTS?

At pin 50 check for continuity on the black to the black wire at CPS[/quote:1e3e6bf40b]

There is no voltage on the white wire at CPS; we are not sure what the CTS is; we do have continuity at pin 50 to the black wire.[/Quote:1e3e6bf40b] If the CTS is the Cam Timing Sensor, there is no brown/yellow wires; there is a six wire plug and a two wire plug going to the distributor.[/Quote:1e3e6bf40b]

Are you turning On the key when checking the black wire

CTS=Coolant temperature sensor has a black and the brown/yellow

The black wire also goes to TPS throttle position/Crank pos. /IAT=intake air temperature sensor/EGR temp. Sensor. Check cont. On all this sensors to pin out 50

Turn key On look for power at pin 50, do you have it?[/Quote:1e3e6bf40b]

We tested the CPS on DC Volts with key on nothing - white or black; tested the brown/yellow on CTS have 5 volts; tested pin 50 for continuity with test light - the light came on; tested pin 50 with volt meter on DC volts got nothing. The black wires going to TPS throttle/IAT/EGR/Crank Sensors have no continuity to pin 50.[/Quote:1e3e6bf40b]

Am getting twisted here-okay All these black wires are all tied in together with pin out 50 they should have continuity from that point that's where its terminated from the sensors involved here.

Going back to the CPS-531ohms is too much-Change it. And attempt to start it. No dice see below.

Okay do this disconnect negative batt. Cable and all the sensors involved now check black wire from TPS to black wire on each other sensors-you should have continuity. They all spliced in together somewhere and goes to pin 50.

Check out the black wire at pin out 50

www. .com

Okay, we have gone back over everything from step one. We replaced the CPS today. It now tests at 507; the CPS Black Wire is only showing 00.6 volts; the injector resistances are at 11.4 ohms; the continuity between ECM harness connector terminals 102, 104, 107, and 109 are all good. On the brown/yellow wire at CTS we had 00.6 volts; at pin 50 we have continuity on the black to the black wire at CPS; also checked contuity on TPS throttle position/crank pos./IAT to pin 50. The power at pin 50 is showing up at 00.6 volts; pin 106 has ground; the injectors do not click when we crank the engine; we have fuel all the way to the rail; finally, we disconnected the negative batt. Cable and all of the sensors involved. We have continuity on all. Again, thank you for any help that you are able to provide.[/Quote:72a789eeb4]

You got determination-

Okay leave all the wiring connectors at the computer connected-disconnect the harness on the Mas Airflow sensor-Turn key On check for power at MAF sensor white and red, also the the distributor connector white and red wire, also at computer connector find pin 4 white and green-do you have power. Do not disconnect any connector at the computer back probe the pin 4.

You need to comback asap
Good Luck

What we trying to do is nail the ECCS relay

I gave you 2 PM's in reference to the CMP sensor-did you check it?

Not sure what or where this is. Sorry, we are really not mechanics or electricians - just trying to fix the car on a slim to none budget; we greatly appreciate your help.[/Quote:ad8c2164f0]

What I gave you in the PM's is for the camshaft position sensor-do that and get back with me-you've already change the CPS. Something has to give between the CMP and CKP sensors-the ECU needs an ignition signal in order for it to energize the injectors.

BTW the ECU's do they match in no.S Old and New one.