1982 Nissan 280Z 82 280zx

Tiny
ZZ_BRAMANISHERE
  • MEMBER
  • 1982 NISSAN 280Z
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 122,000 MILES
I have replaced all plugs and wires, ignition coil. The car has fuel, battery is brand new. Heres the problem. The car will start up fine, but after a few mins of driving it will shut off an will not start back up untill it cools down. The engine is not overheating but something is causing it to shut off after it warms up. I did drive it home when I bought it (45 mins interstate) and it did just fine. I then drove it for about 2 hrs the next day, mostly non-stop, stayed the night, drove back the 2 hrs. But after arriving home I had to run back out and 3-4 mins from my house it shut off again, but started right bak up after it cooled down. Ive read many forums and im led to belive it could be a faulty sensor that tells the car to shut off at a certain temp, or it is something to do with the fuel system (filter, pump). PLEASE HELP!
Tuesday, September 7th, 2010 AT 4:00 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Check the fuel pressure if its specs fuel pump could be getting weak
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Wednesday, September 8th, 2010 AT 12:36 PM
Tiny
ZZ_BRAMANISHERE
  • MEMBER
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Ill check the fuel pressure tonight or tomorrow evening. Also this morning i started the car and let it idol for about 6 mins before it shut off again, but the car doesnt normally miss but towards the end of the 6 mins you could here the engine as well as in the exhuast that it started to miss a little and then a little more and then quite a bit every 10-15 seconds, then just completely shut off as if i had turned the key to the off position. The more i investigate, the more i have a feeling that your right about the fuel pump. Because not getting a consistant amount of fuel would cause it to miss as well as when the supply ran out it would shut off just as it did. If you have any more suggestions, please post!!! BUT again, TAHNK YOU FOR THE REPLY!!


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/570333_IMG_0076_1.jpg

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Wednesday, September 8th, 2010 AT 3:45 PM
Tiny
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The fuel pressure should be 30psi
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Wednesday, September 8th, 2010 AT 3:50 PM
Tiny
ZZ_BRAMANISHERE
  • MEMBER
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Today I was tempted to just replace the fuel pump. I tried starting the car several times but it didnt start like always. In order to relive the fuel pressure from the fuel system the car has to be on but my whole issue is the car nopt being able to start. Soooo I turned the key to the on position and disconnected the fuel pump relay as well as disconnecting the fuel pump connector located above the fuel tank hopeing that the fuel pressure would be relieved. I loosened the clamp on the "out" of the fuel filter and pulled the line off and just like that, the entire 30 psi came out as fast as it could. I let it drain into a container until it stoped and the connected the fuel guage an line and turned the key to the on position and sure enough, it went right to 30 psi. I then undid the clamp to the "in" on the fuel filter and let the filter drain all the way and used my air commpressor on the "in" side to make sure it wasnt blocked. Reconnected all of the fuel system and tryed to start the car and oddly enough it started right up and ran great idoling for about 15 mins an I shut it off. I then started it again and it started right up again. So I thought whatever the problem was had just fixed itself and began cleaning it. I pulled it out of the carport to the turnaround in my drive way and just as I went to turn the key off, it died on its own. By this time its pretty dark outside so just for shits and giggles since its dark, I took off each spark plug and while it was still connected, let it contact ground "arc" while I attempted to start it. NO ARC! So I think it could possibley be the coil or something with the distributor. The distributor cap and rotor are brand new. The coil was replaced with a used one a few weeks before I bought the car. So I think I might just need to buy a new one unless it could possibly be a sensor with the distributor or its internals. The battery reads fully charged and the starter seems to turn strong. Is there a way to check the coil to see if its working the way it should? Also, would a bad coil or distributor internals cause the car to miss occasionally? If not, when I get this problem solved Ill have to adjust the timeing. Thank you so much for helping!
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Thursday, September 9th, 2010 AT 10:19 PM
Tiny
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You can test the coil's primary and secondary winding resistances, the distributor pick-up coil, ICM/Ignitor and also the TDC crank sensor its in the repair manual-
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Friday, September 10th, 2010 AT 3:00 AM

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