Neutral safety switch

First of all, what problem or symptom are you trying to solve? Have you read the diagnostic fault codes? If you did, list the code numbers.

Dandy. When you say "all the wires lit up", does that mean you were doing continuity tests with a test light, or the wires were burning up? If that was continuity testing, that is a valid test, but only part of it. You also have to check if any two wires are shorted together or if any of them is shorted to ground. Either condition can exist even though the wires are not broken.

This code can set for a defective switch, wires shorted together, or a problem in the Engine Computer. We can eliminate the switch for now since you replaced it already. My concern now is if it took over a month for the problem to act up again, it is going to be hard to know when it is solved. To make matters worse, the service manual lists a test you can do at the computer. That involves measuring the voltage on terminal number 14 in a 12-pin plug! That is a pretty good trick.

The engine computer is behind the glove box. The wire we're after is listed as black, in plug "E8" but as I said, it only has twelve wires. Look for a black wire in one of the other plugs. With the ignition switch on,
you should find between 0 to 3 volts when in "park" or "neutral", and from 9 to 14 volts when in any other gear. If any of those are wrong, suspect a problem with the wiring.

That is actually better than having to wait and wonder if it is solved. I hope you can find a problem with the wires. That is better than having to replace the computer. Wish the diagram was better so I could help you find that black wire.