Running rough, loss of power, shuts off while driving

Tiny
LYNDEL MOORE
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 NISSAN QUEST
  • 3.6L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 300 MILES
I am hoping someone can help. My van has very high miles, but can't afford a car right now. I need this van to last a couple more months.I noticed a few months ago it losing power, then felt almost as transmission was slipping, and it started shifting hard. Then nightmare really began. It acted like it was vapor locked, let it cool down put fresh gas in started up, drove a little rough was hard to start. Got it started ran very rough got it home. Next day changed plugs, wires, rotor, distributor cap. Start it up ran very rough step on gas it wouldn't move in reverse or drive, low one or two. Finally after warm up it would move started very slow. With accelerator smashed down we were going 20 then it kicked in and away we went. 32 miles into town about half way noticed it surging a bit, kind of cutting out but not if that makes sense. Further drove it worse it got pull up to stop light it wouldn't move a few minutes it would engage very slowly finally it quit wouldn't start. Cool down started ran extremely rough hauled it to shop four days later they have no idea. Put a fuel press regulator on no difference, take it from shop it started and I drove it after I got a push from behind with accelerator smashed we got up to 25 to 30. Put a new fuel pump on, fixed! Although power wasn't up to what it was six months ago, loss of power on incline and would shift hard and first drive in morning was again 20 mph for a few minutes then pick up and we were off for the day. Driving home one night it ran beautifully just like it had six months ago! Two days later it felt a little strange all day wanting to be stupid, but it never did until I am on my way home from work Friday night and it acts like it is running out of gas just like before, shuts off push it through intersection. Call a tow truck again, changed fuel pump again and made no difference. New mass air flow sensor on yesterday go to start it and it turns over and over and over finally starts, running really bad like before accelerate and it wants to shut off. Can someone help? I know it is old tired lots of miles, but I really need this thing to get me through summer.
Monday, June 24th, 2019 AT 9:22 AM

9 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,053 POSTS
Welcome to 2CarPros.

Is the check engine light staying on when the engine is running? If so, has it been scanned for diagnostic trouble codes? If the light is on, that needs done to point us in the right directions.

Now, your vehicle being a 1994 has an OBD1 computer diagnostic system. Here is a link that explains how to get codes from it. No scanner is needed. I recommend doing this so we have a direction.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/nissan-obd1-diagnostic-trouble-codes-and-retrieval-procedure-1984-to-1994

Based on your description, it could be many different things. However, if when it only goes 25 mph the engine is not revving high indicating the transmission is slipping, the first thing I would check would be for a plugged catalytic converter. If you hear any rattling from the exhaust, the internals of the converter can be loose and moving around. Thus, one time it runs good when it's positioned right, and the next it moves and plugs causing hard starting and loss of power.

Take a look through these links. The first describes what a catalytic converter symptoms, the second how to test one and, the third in general how one is replaced.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/bad-catalytic-converter-symptoms

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/catalytic-converter-replacement

__________________

Look through the symptoms one and let me know if you feel it mirrors what you are experiencing. I attached two pics. The first shows what is in the converter. These parts can melt down and cause a blockage or come loose and block air flow. the second picture shows the locations of the converters.

Let me know your thoughts and what you find.

Joe

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Monday, June 24th, 2019 AT 8:22 PM
Tiny
LYNDEL MOORE
  • MEMBER
  • 19 POSTS
I will try and get codes. I kind of thought that would help but everyone said it is too old to get a diagnostic. It will go at normal speed after driving it for a mile or two, and the weird thing it only does that when its not warmed up. Once you have driven it and like run into the store you can take off as normal. But first thing in morning it is smashed down and going 25. Then all at once picks up speed shifts and it is okay. Still not as much power as it had say like six months ago.I drove it for a week after first fuel pump before it quit again when it quit it was as though it was running out of gas.I will let you know after I look at the links you sent. Thank you very much.
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Tuesday, June 25th, 2019 AT 8:07 PM
Tiny
LYNDEL MOORE
  • MEMBER
  • 19 POSTS
Also when I start it while it is idling when you give it any gas at all it shuts off.
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Tuesday, June 25th, 2019 AT 8:26 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,053 POSTS
Welcome back.

Have you or anyone rechecked fuel pressure? And it's not too old for diagnostic codes. It just has the first system in it. It works similar, but the retrieval process is different.

You know, I have a feeling I may know what is wrong. Based on your description, something is telling me it is still a fuel related issue. Has the filter been replaced? There is even a screen type filter on the bottom of the fuel pump. Was the tank inspected when it was out to see if it was dirty inside? Since it ran good for awhile then started the same thing again, and what you are describing sounds like the engine is starved for fuel, I have a feeling the tank is dirty and has clogged something. Keep in mind, when you first start the vehicle, pressure has to build again. If there is a restriction and pressure is delayed, what you described makes sense.

I need you to check fuel pressure when the engine is cold. Here is a link that explains how in general it's done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Here are the specifics for your vehicle. You will need a fuel pressure gauge, but most parts stores will lend you one. Explain to them that you have to place a T in the fuel line so they give you what is needed.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

RELEASING FUEL PRESSURE WITHOUT CONSULT
WARNING: Before disconnecting fuel line, release fuel pressure from fuel line to eliminate danger.
See Pic 1
1. Remove fuel pump fuse.
2. Crank engine, If engine starts let it run until it stalls.
3. After engine stalls, crank it two or three times to release all fuel pressure.
4. Turn ignition switch "OFF".
5. Reinstall fuel pump fuse after servicing fuel system.

FUEL PRESSURE CHECK
CAUTION:
- When reconnecting fuel line, always use new clamps.
- Make sure that clamp screw does not contact adjacent parts.
- Use a torque driver to tighten clamps.
- Use Pressure Gauge to check fuel pressure.
- Do not perform fuel pressure check while fuel pressure regulator control system is operating; otherwise, fuel pressure gauge might indicate incorrect readings.

1. Release fuel pressure to zero.
2. Disconnect fuel hose between fuel filter and fuel tube (engine side).
3. Install pressure gauge between fuel filter and fuel tube.
4. Start engine and check for fuel leakage.

NOTE: If engine wont start and there is little or no fuel pressure do not proceed with the remaining steps. Check the fuel pump and fuel pump control circuit. See: Fuel Pump > Testing and Inspection See: Computers and Control Systems > Component Tests and General Diagnostics > Fuel Pump Control

Fuel Pressure Check Gauge Reading
See Pic 2

5. Read the indication of fuel pressure gauge.
At idling:
When fuel pressure regulator valve vacuum hose is connected.
Approximately 235 kPa (2.4 kg/cm2, 34 psi)
When fuel pressure regulator valve vacuum hose is disconnected.
Approximately 294 kPa (3.0 kg/cm2, 43 psi)

__________________________________________

I also attached a picture of the fuel filter (to help identify it) and the screen at the bottom of the pump. (pics 3 and 4) Pic 3 is the screen I referred to which could be getting blocked and pic 4 is the filter. If you compare pics 2 and 4, you will see where the fuel pressure gauge is attached to check pressure.
_________________________________________

Please let me know if you have questions or need help. Also, let me know if the filter was replaced along with the screen on the pump and your findings.

Take care,
Joe
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Tuesday, June 25th, 2019 AT 9:03 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,053 POSTS
Welcome back:

Have you or anyone rechecked fuel pressure? And it's not too old for diagnostic codes. It just has the first system in it. It works similar, but the retrieval process is different.

You know, I have a feeling I may know what is wrong. Based on your description, something is telling me it is still a fuel related issue. Has the filter been replaced? There is even a screen type filter on the bottom of the fuel pump. Was the tank inspected when it was out to see if it was dirty inside? Since it ran good for awhile then started the same thing again, and what you are describing sounds like the engine is starved for fuel, I have a feeling the tank is dirty and has clogged something. Keep in mind, when you first start the vehicle, pressure has to build again. If there is a restriction and pressure is delayed, what you described makes sense.

I need you to check fuel pressure when the engine is cold. Here is a link that explains how in general it's done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Here are the specifics for your vehicle. You will need a fuel pressure gauge, but most parts stores will lend you one. Explain to them that you have to place a T in the fuel line so they give you what is needed.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

RELEASING FUEL PRESSURE WITHOUT CONSULT
WARNING: Before disconnecting fuel line, release fuel pressure from fuel line to eliminate danger.
See Pic 1
1. Remove fuel pump fuse.
2. Crank engine, If engine starts let it run until it stalls.
3. After engine stalls, crank it two or three times to release all fuel pressure.
4. Turn ignition switch "OFF".
5. Reinstall fuel pump fuse after servicing fuel system.

FUEL PRESSURE CHECK
CAUTION:
- When reconnecting fuel line, always use new clamps.
- Make sure that clamp screw does not contact adjacent parts.
- Use a torque driver to tighten clamps.
- Use Pressure Gauge to check fuel pressure.
- Do not perform fuel pressure check while fuel pressure regulator control system is operating; otherwise, fuel pressure gauge might indicate incorrect readings.

1. Release fuel pressure to zero.
2. Disconnect fuel hose between fuel filter and fuel tube (engine side).
3. Install pressure gauge between fuel filter and fuel tube.
4. Start engine and check for fuel leakage.

NOTE: If engine wont start and there is little or no fuel pressure do not proceed with the remaining steps. Check the fuel pump and fuel pump control circuit. See: Fuel Pump > Testing and Inspection See: Computers and Control Systems > Component Tests and General Diagnostics > Fuel Pump Control

Fuel Pressure Check Gauge Reading
See Pic 2

5. Read the indication of fuel pressure gauge.
At idling:
When fuel pressure regulator valve vacuum hose is connected.
Approximately 235 kPa (2.4 kg/cm2, 34 psi)
When fuel pressure regulator valve vacuum hose is disconnected.
Approximately 294 kPa (3.0 kg/cm2, 43 psi)

__________________________________________

I also attached a picture of the fuel filter (to help identify it) and the screen at the bottom of the pump. (pics 3 and 4) Pic 3 is the screen I referred to which could be getting blocked and pic 4 is the filter. If you compare pics 2 and 4, you will see where the fuel pressure gauge is attached to check pressure.
_________________________________________

Please let me know if you have questions or need help. Also, let me know if the filter was replaced along with the screen on the pump and your findings.

Take care,
Joe
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Tuesday, June 25th, 2019 AT 9:05 PM
Tiny
LYNDEL MOORE
  • MEMBER
  • 19 POSTS
Hi hoe, I am back. I was going to get codes but I am not sure where the computer is located.I think that we may have found it but didn't see a toggle switch or the screw that some might have and I can't seem to find a diagram if where it could be. It can't be that difficult I am sure.
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Monday, July 1st, 2019 AT 7:33 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,053 POSTS
I just looked up info for the data link connector. For the consult scanner, the connector is at the bottom of the fuse panel in the vehicle. See picture 1 For the ECM OBD connector, it is near the starter. See pictures 2 and 3.

Joe
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Monday, July 1st, 2019 AT 8:59 PM
Tiny
LYNDEL MOORE
  • MEMBER
  • 19 POSTS
  • 2000 FORD EXPLORER
  • 4.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 204,000 MILES
I asked this last summer but can't seem to find it on my account so I will ask again. In the winter I have no problem with it but now that it is summer and it is already ridiculously hot in New Mexico and I didnt fix the problem last summer here it is again. If I run the air conditioner the vehicle will cut out like it is running out of gas while driving or start running very rough at a stop then shut off. It usually will start up after a few tries and usually get me to my destination possibly with a couple more times of shutting off at a stop depending on how far I have to drive. If I put gas in even ten dollars worth it seems to die less. It will do the stalling out thing at a stop even if air conditioner has been turned off. It will also do this on a hot day if driven a lot of miles say errands around town, but again if there is fresh cool gas in it it doesn't seem to do it.
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Sunday, June 6th, 2021 AT 1:38 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good morning,

I would start by checking the fuel pressure to see if the pump is working correctly.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

If the pressure is low, the boiling point will lower and this could happen. This is why you need to test the pressure. I attached the spec below. You can rent a tester at a parts store.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

I would also clean the throttle body of all carbon buildup. If the plate has carbon on it, it could stall.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

Roy

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Sunday, June 6th, 2021 AT 1:38 PM (Merged)

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