Starts but stalls out quickly. HELP!

Tiny
JRALVAREZ
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 NISSAN QUEST
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 204,072 MILES
My NEW problems. Help me or kill me. Lol. Ok the problems I had with it before is a lil different now. So far I've replace the water pump, distributor, distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs and wires, mass air flow sensor, map sensor, starter, battery, valve cover gaskets. Im running out of ideas what to fix or replace next. The van starts quickly and easy now but it sounds like its not getting enough air. I removed the air filter and its still the same. It starts but stall out within a minute. I wanna clean the butterfly valve with maybe a carberator cleaner cause it is dirty. But what else can I check? Hopefully its an easy fix so PLEASE HELP! I gotta go back to work and it sucks asking for rides to the store or doctors.
Saturday, June 11th, 2011 AT 11:41 PM

10 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
If the enigne can be restarted easily after it stalls, try applying a little accelerator pressure to keep the engine running between 2000 to 3000 rpm. If engine can run but is unstable, you have a problem with the idling system and possible causes are :

1. Vacuum leakages. Check for cracks between the air cliener (MAF) and throttle body. Any cracks on the air hose can cause that.

2. Dirty or faulty IAC ( Idle Air Control, Nissan calls it AACV, Auxiliary Air Control Valve). Have the throttle body and AACV cleaned, as you mentioned, with carb cleaner. When carb cleaner is used, you would have difficulty restarting so prolonged cranking and erratic running should be expected when restarting.

Is the Check Engine Light indicating and have you tried to retrieve for trouble codes?
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Sunday, June 12th, 2011 AT 3:22 AM
Tiny
  • MEMBER
  • 0 POST
  • 1999 NISSAN QUEST
At first it would drive fine and then all the sudden it started to cut out or stall when pushing gas pedal. If it would die we couldn't start it again for few hours, but wouldn't run long and do same thing again. Now it won't even start. Please help if can answer.
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Wednesday, May 31st, 2017 AT 9:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,052 POSTS
Check the fuel pump pressure. It sounds like you may have a bad fuel pump.
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Wednesday, May 31st, 2017 AT 9:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HAWAZ MEZMUR DESTA
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I would suggest you check the camshaft position sensors, including the Crankshaft position sensor. An OBD test would tell you the most. Thanks!
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Wednesday, May 31st, 2017 AT 9:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 50,003 POSTS
Hey,

Great addition to this thread! Please feel free to help out on the site whenever it can add information that will help.

Cheers, Ken
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Wednesday, May 31st, 2017 AT 9:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SELENA EVALA SANTOS-RODRIGUEZ
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1999 NISSAN QUEST
  • 3.3L
  • 6 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 230,000 MILES
The van had a faint buzz or whine every time at 1600-2500rpm. Then it would thrust into gear. One day it just cut off in the highway no power whatsoever. Wouldn't start afterwards. Checked spark its very faint. Engine seems to be turning, fuel pump can be heard. Please help
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Wednesday, May 31st, 2017 AT 9:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RENEE L
  • ADMIN
  • 1,260 POSTS
Its sound like a battery connection problem, please check out this article and go from there.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

Please let us know what you find so it will help others
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Wednesday, May 31st, 2017 AT 9:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JRALVAREZ
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 1999 NISSAN QUEST
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 204,072 MILES
My 1991 nissan quest gxe runs as good as new when first started and driven but when warmed up like 5 minutes later it starts to idle irratically and stalls out. I replaced the distributor cap and rotor plus spark plugs and wires. Ive checked the air filter and vacuum lines. What else can I check? I hope I dont have to replace the distributor
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Wednesday, May 31st, 2017 AT 9:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FIXITMR
  • MECHANIC
  • 9,990 POSTS
So you know about that huh? Usually sounds noisy when bad. Or optical sensor is dirty. What about IAC or maybe EGR or clean you MAF/MAP? ECT sensor try pulling plug to test. You can pull plug on MAF/MAP too. Sure you have no vacuum leaks?
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Wednesday, May 31st, 2017 AT 9:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JRALVAREZ
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Yes my distributor has a grinding noise coming from it. I thought that was the problem from the begining. Its too late right now but I'll check on the vacuum leaks in the morning. Thanks for all the help fixitmr.
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Wednesday, May 31st, 2017 AT 9:19 PM (Merged)

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