Sputtering and bogging down when accelerating

Tiny
JFREE2107
  • MEMBER
  • 1991 FORD LTD
  • 5.0L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 120,000 MILES
This is a Crown Victoria LTD with a 302 engine.
Sometimes it accelerates decently, but not as strong as it used to, other times it sputters and slowly starts to accelerate, then occasionally it nearly stalls out barely a crawl sputtering and backfiring. I release the gas and press until it finally catches. It also cranks a bit slow. New starter, distributor, cap, rotor button, wires, plugs, water pump, and cold air intake. Redid the exhaust system and put a new fuel filter on a few months back. Bought this as my first car eleven years ago with 60,000 miles on it. Odometer stopped at 64,130 around a year later, so it has over 100,000 miles on it. Did not drive it for maybe two years between being stationed in the northern states and deployed to Kuwait and have not driven it but occasionally on the weekends the last few years. I have also replaced the EGR, IAC, and MAF sensor. I have been noticing skipping and stuttering when slowing down to around twenty then attempting to accelerate. It is hit or miss when coming to a complete stop. No issue when going downhill, but definitely still there when going uphill or not coming to a complete stop.
Monday, April 2nd, 2018 AT 12:07 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,443 POSTS
Was it acting this way before the work was done recently? Especially the "cold air intake" was added? I have seen those mess up the air entry into the MAF and cause strange problems like missing and loss of power. Plus they cause issues as the engine bay heats up and the intake air temperature goes higher due to pulling in the hot engine air.

The plugs/points/wires and the rest were done trying to repair it?

Because it has sat for so long I would start with flushing the fuel system out and trying new good gas, then check fuel pressure and flow rate. That car has a steel tank and setting could have let the tank rust and the fuel would turn to varnish, new gas with ethanol in it would break that all down and plug the in tank sock and the dissolved varnish could cause injector clogging.
Check all the vacuum lines for cracks/splits as well.

Letting a vehicle set for long periods is actually worse in many cases than driving them.

On a different note. Thank you for your service.
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Tuesday, April 3rd, 2018 AT 12:37 PM
Tiny
JFREE2107
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Yes, it was acting this way before the work, after the work was complete it ran good for a few hours. Using 93 gas and fuel treatment. Now it is getting just as bad as it was before I did all the work to it. Drove down a full tank of 93 and fuel treatment, now on second tank of the same, and I am back to square one. I think I am going to have to swallow my pride and let a licensed mechanic take a crack at it. But this problem was the initial issue. I took the shotgun method and started repairing everything that I could think of partially because most of it has never been replaced since I have had it, and in hopes that one of them would correct the issue. Even replaced some of my hard vacuum lines with the more durable rubber lines.
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Tuesday, April 3rd, 2018 AT 1:11 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,443 POSTS
From that description, and that it did run better after the work, I would test the fuel pressure and do a pressure drop test on the injectors as well. It sounds like a lack of fuel.

You might try replacing the fuel filter and cutting open the old one to see if it collected a bunch of crud. That would let you connect a pressure gauge as well. You can get the gauge from many parts stores as a loaner tool.

Oh, is the CEL on?
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Tuesday, April 3rd, 2018 AT 9:05 PM
Tiny
JFREE2107
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
It only comes on briefly when cranking along with the other lights on the dash. My OBD1 pulled no error codes key on engine off, or engine on. Pulled a spark plug there was oil on it. Thinking my valve seal/s are bad and/or going bad, which is not good because I just had that engine broken down and stopped at the heads. I did not want to go any further as I have never removed heads before. I could be wrong, and I am hoping that I am. Do you think I should move forward with the fuel system?
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Tuesday, April 3rd, 2018 AT 11:09 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,443 POSTS
I would. Oil could be from rings, valve stem seals or PCV issues. I would get it running, then see what it does once you get it warmed up. If it turns out to be stem seals, those can be changed without pulling the heads.
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Tuesday, April 3rd, 2018 AT 11:46 PM

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