SPONSORED LINKS

Lightning Bolt display blinks and will not go away

Tiny
JC-842
  • MEMBER
  • 2007 DODGE CALIBER
  • 2.0L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 144,000 MILES
I've been going around in circles trying to diagnose my horrible running car (listed above) SE. $400.00 later and still no answers as to what's causing my problems. A brief rundown:
Of problems and what has happened up until today. 18th. Two week's ago car ran great. Upon starting the engine one morning there was a backfire thru the throttle body. And then a loud hissing noise like air leaking from somewhere. Too many codes upon scan to list. Repairs done.
Intake manifold and runner control valve replacement. New throttle body.
Replaced all coils. New plugs. Stopped the hissing noise but still runs ruff.
Now the lightning bolt display is flashing and will not go away. Reset throttle body multiple times. Yesterday I replaced the PCM/ECM.
Things smoothed out a little bit. Today I unplugged the runner control valve to do a volt test. Reading was 0.0.8 forgot to plug it back in started engine and to my surprise it runs a lot smoother. I also damaged the MAS or MAF sensor whichever one it is. At the bottom of the intake manifold. I unplugged it as well and now I can actually drive the car short distance.
The lightning bolt display still blinks and will not go away. As crazy as this sounds. It's actually running better but needs these sensors replaced and plugged back in. Can anyone please shed some light on my situation?
Thanks. JC
SPONSORED LINKS
Thursday, August 19th, 2021 AT 12:26 PM

11 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,755 POSTS
Hi,

Since you have the light related to the throttle system, are there any codes related? If possible, let me know what codes are still on. If you haven't already, clean all codes and start the engine and see which ones return.

We really need to do it this way, otherwise, it becomes a guessing game.

I attached a pic below of the MAP sensor. This vehicle doesn't have a MAF. Is this the sensor that has broken? Also, do you have a live data scan tool?

If you do have the scan tool, let me know what the short-term fuel trims are and what the engine coolant temp sensor is signaling when the engine is cold and before starting.

Let me know.

Joe
Image (Click to make bigger)
Thumb
SPONSORED LINKS
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, August 19th, 2021 AT 2:38 PM
Tiny
JC-842
  • MEMBER
  • 181 POSTS
No, I don't have access to live data. It's throwing the same codes as before. Coil number 3 yes the MAP sensor is not even plugged in. I think I'm giving up on this one it seems to be wiring related that same coil c or number 3 has been giving me trouble since I bought the car. I dropped my meter in a dog's water bowl now it's not working right. I think this is a job for the pros I'm tired of the guessing game it's getting more expensive every day. I'm just going to take it in if they can fix it for $500.00 if not I'll junk it. Never buy a Caliber Joe. Thanks for all your help. JC
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, August 19th, 2021 AT 5:02 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,755 POSTS
JC,

Hang in there. This all started with a backfire. Also, when you disconnect the MAP sensor, it causes the computer to go into a preprogrammed setting. So, there could be a problem with the MAP itself.

Often times a backfire is caused by excessive fuel. It could have bent the throttle plate. Read through this link and let me know your thoughts:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-backfires-while-running

Now, the number 3 coil is new to me. That is the likely reason the light is flashing. When there is a misfire, that causes it to flash.

Here is what I want you to try. Remove the coil from cylinder 3 and switch it with cylinder 1. See if the misfire moves to cylinder 1. Also, when you have the cylinder 3 coil off, remove the spark plug just to make sure it is still okay.

If possible, give me the exact codes you have.

Joe

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, August 19th, 2021 AT 7:20 PM
Tiny
JC-842
  • MEMBER
  • 181 POSTS
Okay, that's encouraging. The MAP sensor was broken taking off the manifold. But I do see an improvement in the overall engine performance with the map and manifold runner valve unplugged. That sounds crazy but it's true. Tomorrow I will send you a list of the codes in order. What type of scan tool do you recommend from Harbor Freight? Also how do you feel about a circuit detection tool? It will alert you to the area where there is open wire/broken/etc. Harbor Freight sells them as well. And I will buy another volt meter. Talk to you soon. Thanks Joe.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, August 19th, 2021 AT 8:19 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,755 POSTS
Hi,

If there is a problem with a sensor and you disconnect it, the engine could run better. If the sensor is bad and sending poor information, with it unplugged, the computer will compensate.

As far as scanners, although I love harbor freight, I never looked at their scan tools. Here is what I suggest: If you are going to purchase one, try to find one that can scan the entire CAN. CAN stands for controller area network. Basically, all the different modules/computers are tied together via a few wires. A basic scanner will only read basic codes. A CAN scanner can read all codes regardless of the module it's stored in.

I've seen them on Amazon as low as 50 dollars. I'm sure Harbor Freight will have something similar.

I'm suggesting that type because the newer the vehicle, the more it is needed. When you purchase a scanner, chances are you plan to keep it for some time, so if you get newer and newer vehicles, it will benefit you.

As far as the circuit detection tool, yes. I think that can be very useful. Just keep both the detection tool and scanner away from the dog's water dish. LOL

I am a dog lover, so nothing they can do is wrong. LOL I don't know what I would do without my own dog.

You take care of yourself and let me know what you find.

Take care,

Joe
SPONSORED LINKS
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Thursday, August 19th, 2021 AT 8:36 PM
Tiny
JC-842
  • MEMBER
  • 181 POSTS
I read the link on backfiring. Really interesting. Joe there are a couple new codes since replacing the PCM yesterday. The one that caught my attention that I remember was a large evap leak. Then there was one more new one I'll retrieve it tomorrow for you. Also today I noticed the smell of raw gas coming from the cars exhaust. That's all I can think of that's new. Until I can erase and rescan. Please think about a good diagnostics tool for me to buy. Harbor freight has several different ones. Thanks. JC
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, August 19th, 2021 AT 8:46 PM
Tiny
JC-842
  • MEMBER
  • 181 POSTS
I will for sure. I use to breed The Boston terrier Joe they are so smart.
I have four of them. They are my world.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, August 19th, 2021 AT 8:53 PM
Tiny
JC-842
  • MEMBER
  • 181 POSTS
This is Gracee, Joe.
Image (Click to make bigger)
Thumb
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, August 19th, 2021 AT 8:56 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,755 POSTS
Hi,

Beautiful dog! I am stuck on Shelties. I had one for years and lost him 4 years ago. I now have a tri-color one. He never leaves my side when I'm home.

As far s the car, the large evap leak shouldn't be hard to narrow down. Don't laugh, but make sure the fuel cap is on.

The idea that you smell fuel is likely because the EVAP system is open at some point. The EVAP is responsible for preventing gas fumes from entering the atmosphere. There are a few points that can lead to a large leak, but if you are smelling gas, that's likely the cause. Hopefully, there will be a code related to it.

As far as scanners, just look for one that reads all codes from the CAN-BUS.

I attached a pic below of a scan tool on Amazon and highlighted the things to look for when you are at Harbor Freight. Again, I'm suggesting this type simply because it will last with the changes in newer vehicles.

Take care,

Joe

See pic below.
Image (Click to make bigger)
Thumb
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Thursday, August 19th, 2021 AT 9:16 PM
Tiny
JC-842
  • MEMBER
  • 181 POSTS
Joe, Shelties are beautiful also very intelligent. Like Lassie but she was a a regular Collie. I just lost my Yellow Lab he was 18 years old. Hardest thing I ever had to do. Still cry when I see a Yellow Lab on TV. But back to car I should be explained myself a little better. The gas I'm smelling is unburned coming from the exhaust when it's running. I think it's running too rich. I'll pull the plugs tomorrow.
I'll also update you on the codes.
Have a great evening. JC
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, August 19th, 2021 AT 9:39 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,755 POSTS
Correct, the large evap leak will open the fuel tank to the atmosphere. It will smell like raw fuel. Check around the exhaust with the engine off to see if you can still smell it.

The charcoal canister is in the rear of the vehicle. The canister mounts to a left rear frame rail in the rear of the vehicle. That is the area where I suspect the large leak is located. I attached some pics below for you and circled the things to check.

I will watch for your reply tomorrow.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.
Images (Click to make bigger)
Thumb
Thumb
Thumb
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Thursday, August 19th, 2021 AT 10:12 PM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Related Throttle Body Replace/Remove Content

VIEW MORE

Sponsored links