Air suspension problems and reset?

I would not worry about it until it becomes an issue. If the bags start to sag and compressor does not come on then diagnose it. Compressor is only going to come on when the bags start to go down.

This worked on older Town Cars so it is work trying on your vehicle as I don't think anything changed. Locate the air suspension control module behind the glove box and unplug the lower connector. This connector contains the circuity for the dash communication and it should turn the light off if it is not communicating. Clearly you do not need the control module if you don't have air suspension.

After this, we are going to need to perform some surgery on the cluster and that is not desirable. Also, I have not researched it but there may be companies out there that can trick the module and not turn the light on by reprogramming it. Clearly we can get into that if this does not work. Thanks

Sounds great. Please keep us updated because that would be great to know if it works on this model year as well. If not, we can figure something else out. Thanks

You have to remove the air cleaner, then there is a cover that you have to remove, then you can get to the compressor.

No problem. Good luck!

I would highly doubt them removing the air springs and shocks could cause the axle seals to leak. They are unrelated parts and wouldn't have been touched to change the shocks out. However axle seal leaks wouldn't cause rusting, they would be leaking oil. It generally makes a mess and collects brake dust. Your vehicle uses a small drum brake inside the rear disc as the parking brake, that would be where the problem was. That design loves to rust and the springs break and they bind up. Especially on a vehicle where you don't use them much if at all. What may have happened is that when they were working on it one of the parking brake cables moved a bit and stuck when they lifted the car up to get the old parts out. Then the rusted parts in the brakes started hitting and made noise. Not really something that was the shops fault, just age and rust causing a problem.

As I said it would be real hard to damage that seal with anything they did. There is a labyrinth of parts around it and none of those would have been removed. They would have pulled the tires off. However the brake disk and the Pbrake drum would have been on. Under it are the shoes and springs like the last pic. The seal is where the arrow is. The third pic is where the seal goes at the outer edge of the tube. However if you look at the 2nd picture you can see the tone wheel that is on the axle. That sits down over the axle tube like a hat.

They wouldn't have touched any of that to remove the suspension parts. Just removed the tires for better access. Then for the air ride they would have shut off the suspension, released the air from the springs and replaced the shocks and added the metal springs. I have done a few myself on various makes with air ride when the parts are made of gold and a conversion is a under 300 to eliminate a host of problems.

I could see it if the leak was a rusted steel brake line as it would be easy to hit those and break a rusted one, but that would be noticed real quick and repaired.

I really cannot think of a way they could damage an axle seal without going into the housing and to do that they would have needed to remove the rear brake caliper, then the rotor, then drain the rear axle and remove the cover to remove the axle clips, then pull the axle out far enough that something could get into it, then put it all back together and refill the axle lube and put the brakes back together.
I could see if the tone ring and brake were all rusted that it might stick if the parking brake was applied. Then if the tone wheel was rusted internally a piece of rust could have broke free and fell just right to cut the seal, but I would think the seal is either worn out or cracked from age. I suppose the rear spring that tensions the lip on the seal could have broke and let it leak but without taking it apart myself to verify what caused the seal to fail, I doubt it was anything the shop did.

I have had more than a few similar situations, as have most shops. You put brakes on the rear of the car, the drivers door latch fails. Or you replace the parts that were causing the engine to run rich and as soon as the converter test runs it sets a code because the rich mix caused the converter to fail.

One thing I would do for the repair on that axle. Replace both seals and go through the parking brake with new parts so it works. Also check the axle bearings for wear, if they are worn it can cause the axle to move around and the seals can fail from the motion. The bearing uses the axle as the inner race and a damaged bearing can chew up the axle pretty quick and cause seal failure very fast.

Most common cause is dry cracked airbags, and failed compressor as a result. If you can hear the compressor running, get a spray bottle with soapy water and spray the bottom of the airbag. Usually will see bubbles instantly, which indicates a massive air leak that is keeping the bags from inflating. I've attached an illustrated picture of the fuses and relay associated with the air suspension so you can check them.

You're welcome!

Check inside your trunk to see if the switch is "OFF". There should be a label near it that explains when it needs to be "OFF".

If it is the air bag leaking. I am almost positive you need to replace both. I hope i'm wrong.
That alone is "unavoidable" BIG $$ repair.
$400.00! Each.

I hope it is just the switch in the "OFF" position.
Good Luck;
Rick