Engine misses when hot

Hello. Are there any codes? If the engine light is on and you haven't received codes, get them. Otherwise, I would be inclined to think maybe a faulty Engine Coolant Temperature sensor. The computer uses the signal from that sensor to judge how to adjust the fuel/air ratio. A faulty sensor can really screw with how the car runs. If you have access to a scanner with love data mode, I'd want to see the readings from that sensor.

Aside from that, there could be an issue with the spark plugs and wires/coils. Sometimes, as they age, coils and plugs can work poorly when hot but decently when cold, or vice versa.

Here's our guide on checking the sparks:
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

I'm also attaching information on how to remove and install the engine coolant temperature sensor. Use it if necessary. Let me know what you find

Okay. Just let me know when you've got those codes pulled and we'll go from there.

Hello. Yes, loose head bolts could cause that type of issue. But that's would be unusual unless the bolts weren't properly torqued to spec by the last mechanic to dig that deep into the engine. So unless you've already had a head gasket done, I'd doubt that possibility.

It's also possible that a blown intake manifold gasket could be the issue here. That would be considerably cheaper and easier than a head gasket replacement. Here's a guide on how to diagnose a head gasket issue.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/head-gasket-blown-test

It's a bit of a pain, but well worth the trouble. Run the test. Run it twice if you can. Then we'll know where to go from here.

Coolant in the oil and/combustion chamber can be caused by blown intake manifold gaskets as well. That's why this test checks for exhaust gases in the coolant. It is a surefire indication of a blown head gasket and not a blown lower intake manifold gasket. That's why I suggested that test.

While I've not done the job on that car, what I generally always suggest is that once you have everything apart, take the head to a machine shop and have it resurfaced. This way, if it's slightly warped, that'll be addressed too. And it could've gotten warped enough to cause problems but not really be easily visible to the naked eye. It doesn't take much. If you don't know where to go, call your local Joe Schmoes mechanic shop and ask them where to take it. I'm sure one of them will tell you where to go. It'll cost $50.00 to $100.00 and could save you from having to do the whole job again. I'm attaching instructions on how to remove the head to this reply. The instructions are a little simplistic, so read through them and let me know what steps you may need clarified and I'll clarify. I'll attach reinstallation instructions in the next reply.

And the reinstallation instructions. Again, read them and let me know what to clarify.

Hi,

I noticed we haven't heard from you for a couple of days. Has any progress been made? We're interested in knowing.

Take care,

Joe

Sounds like you've probably got a handle on it.

Hi,

The timing marks on the chain likely would align in the correct place if you turned the engine over enough times. What you described really sounds normal.

If possible, send us a pic of what you see. Hopefully, one of us will be able to advise you.

Take care,

Joe

LOL, no problem whatsoever. Honestly, it could take several rotations until they match correctly. The gears are different sizes. Thus, they turn at different speeds.

Let me know.

Joe