Check engine light?

Lack of acceleration, chugging, hesitating, bogging etc. Could be caused by a weak fuel pump.

This guide will help us get the codes so we can fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down this guide and report back.

Check engine light on. Checked the gas cap.

Have the computer scanned for code/s-you have a problem within the engine management system that caused the CEL to turn on-This is your starting point of diagnosis,finding out what's going on.

The check engine light came on for no apparent reason. Engine fluids are all good. No overheating or other visible or audible mechanical problems. Drives fine. Had belts and timing chain/belt replaced about a month ago and the oil changed as well.

Hi there,

The ECU has logged a fault code form the input of an engine management sensor, you will have to get a scan retrieve the code, your tech will use this code to determine where the fault lies.

Mark (mhpautos)

I recently had the alternator belt replaced. Also, noticed the car would shake and feel like it wanted to die when stopped at light. Then would very slowly accelerate. Put fuel injection cleaner in at last fill up. Now the check engine light is on. My husband checked under the hood and all fluids are as they should be.

Now the check engine light is on.

Go to Autozone its a free public service and have the computer scanned for code/s-you have a problem within the engine management system that caused the CEL to turn on-This is your starting point of diagnosis,finding out what's going on

I’m hearing a rumbling sound coming from underneath my vehicle everytime I let go of the gas pedal. The wheels will start to shake and the check engine turned on and stays on.

Hello,

Do you think you could pull the Direct Trouble Code(s) (DTC)(s) off your vehicle for me? If you are unfamiliar with how to do this I have included a link for you to go to below.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

If you don't have a code reader you can go to your local parts house, like AutoZone, and they will pull the code for you free of charge. Please get the DTC(s) and get back to us with what it is. This will make diagnosing your vehicle a lot easier, and we can go from there.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

I did and it gave me a P0456 which is a evaporative emission. System leak but that doesn’t solve the rumbling problem underneath the car. Could it be the exhaust isn’t placed right like not screwed in well?

Hello again,

No, it would not. I would check the exhaust hangers and both the engine and transmission mounts. I have included a few guides for you to go to down below.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-motor-mount-works
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/vibration-noise
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/automatic-transmission-problems

Please go through these guides and get to us with what you find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

My wifes mazda check engine light sometimes comes on on occasion it will start blinking while blinking the car keeps running but stepping on the gas does not change engine speed of car speed when it stops blinking the car runs normal. the light comes on and goes off on its own sometimes the light does not come on for days at a time. I had it scanned and it came back with a 300 code, we took it to our toyota dealer and gave them the scan print out and had them do the 90,000 mile service this did not fix the issue and I took it back to them they went thru everything and could not find the cause, normally they are great about fixing any issues on the car and my ford truck also. I had a second scan done and got the same 300 code do you have any ideas

That is a misfiring code and it can be due to many possibilities. Fuel pressure, spark plugs and related components, PCM and bad ground circuits are some of the list.

When the car is idling, the car seems to choke quite a bit...it almost feels as though the car is going to stall. If I tap on the accelerator a bit, the problem seems to go away. The car seems to run fine otherwise unless it is at an idle. The check engine light also recently came on. What could be causing this issue?

I own the same car and i had the same problem. the catalytic converter was recalled in this model and when i took it to the dealership and had that replaced the problem went away. hope this helps.

Engine hesitates I pump gas and it goes. Ck engine light came on auto zone said actuator circuit malfuction,failed IMCC. So is safe to continue driving car ?

first, you need a real tech not a parts salesman.

imrc rarely go bad, it is the controls that fail associated with that system.

you need a real shop to check it for you to determine the actual issue

Roy

For the past 8 months my car has been in and out of the stop and my mechanic just can't seem to fix the problem. I have been randomly getting a check engine light for the past 6 months. It used to just appear and stay solid. It didn't really affect the performance of the car, but would just remain on until the mechanic would clear it. When they would run the diagnostics they would get a generic po300 code (which he says is just a random misfire in a cylinder). I have new spark plugs and wires, I have changed my EGR valve, and nothing seems to work.

Now, I still get the check engine line, but its blinking. It always occurs on this certain stretch of the highway when I am accelerating up a hill. The car feels like its losing power. I am pushing on the accelerator, but it can only go about 50 mph. I exit the freeway and when I'm stopped at the light my car starts shaking as if it was sputtering. Once I restart my car, the light normally changes to a solid light and the car runs fine. The only changes I notice are that my car feels a bit sluggish when I'm driving it.

I don't know if it matters, but it seems like this problem occurs when my gas tank has been recently filled.

Thank you in advance for any help. I really appreciate it!

A blinking check engine light means damage to the catalytic converter can be happening, Check the fuel pump and fuel type you ar using! May need higher octane.

I'm having the exact same issue with my Mazda. I own a 2001 Protege manual transmission. The problem started as yours did. Now, several months later, it has gotten worse. The problem is not consistant, but happens more frequently and to a higher degree. My mechanic has cleaned the tubing to the catalytic converter, replaced the coils, spark plugs and wires all with no results.

When I first described the problem to him, he thought it was the catalytic converter as well. He cleaned the tubing running into the converter, but it didn't help. Finally, he happened to be driving it when the problem occured, so he was able to determine that two of the cylinders are not firing. After replacing the wires and coils it's still happening.

Please post something if you figure out how to make this stop! I'll do the same.

Good Luck!

I have the same problem and it's cost me $1000 in repairs that haven't fixed it yet. Did anyone in this thread get to the bottom of this yet?

I have the same problem with my Mazda 2001 protege, I am not sure what else to do. This has been going on for about a few years now since I changed the timing belt, which did not really need changing. The same week the check engine light came up, and I took it back to the mechanic that mentioned I should change the plugs, the O2 sensors coils and all. Later changed the catalytic converter, this is the 5th change. I am really tired of working on the car now and just need some insight into this problem.
The engine still acts as if its trying to stall, and by pushing on the breaks I usually stop the car fro shacking soo much. This usually happens as I a stopping at a light or something.

Please please, if you have any ideas on how to resolve this let me know, and also I tried the higher octane for a few months and did not see any changes.

Best regards,

MIATA & PROTEGE 1.6L Loosen CKP sensor bolt. Using feeler gauge, adjust air gap between sensor and crankshaft sensor plate projections to .020-0.59" (0.5-1.5 mm). See Fig. 10 . Tighten CKP sensor bolt. If clearance is still not within specification, replace CKP sensor or sensor plate behind crankshaft pulley. Fig. 10: Identifying Crankshaft Position Sensor Air Gap Courtesy of MAZDA MOTORS CORP. IGNITION TIMING B2300, B2500, B3000, B4000 & TRIBUTE Engine is equipped with an electronic distributorless ignition system. Base (initial) timing is preset and is not adjustable. Inspection of timing is done through World Diagnostic System (WDS) scan tool or equivalent. Information is not available for this procedure from manufacturer. MIATA, MILLENIA, MPV & PROTEGE 1. Connect NGS scan tool to DLC-2 located under left side of instrument panel, right of steering column. See Fig. 12 . Connect a jumper wire between terminals TEN and GND at DLC-1 in engine compartment. See Fig. 13 . 2. Ensure idle speed is correct. See IDLE SPEED under IDLE SPEED & MIXTURE. On all models except Millenia 2.3L, connect timing light to high-tension lead No. 1. On Millenia 2.3L, connect Inductive Timing Light (49-T018-002) lead to ignition timing checking harness (Black/White wire) located next to engine compartment relay box. See Fig. 11 . Start engine and allow it to idle. Check timing. See IGNITION TIMING SPECIFICATIONS table. See Fig. 14 . Fig. 11: Identifying Ignition Timing Checking Harness NOTE: Before adjusting or inspecting ignition timing, warm engine to normal operating temperature. Turn off all accessories. Place transmission in Neutral (M/T) or Park (A/T). Wait for cooling fan to stop. Ensure idle speed is correct. See IDLE SPEED under IDLE SPEED & MIXTURE. NOTE: New Generation Star (NGS) scan tool is used to perform following procedures. NOTE: On Millenia 2.3L, ignition timing is not adjustable. NOTE: Standard inductive timing light may not work on ignition timing checking harness. Recommend using manufacturers Inductive Timing Light (49-T018-002) or equivalent. 3. On all models except Millenia 2.5L, if ignition timing is not within specification, check CMP sensor, CKP sensor, TP sensor, ECT sensor and transmission range switch. See appropriate SYSTEM & COMPONENT TESTING article. If all sensors and switches are okay, replace PCM. 4. On Millenia 2.5L, if ignition timing is not within specification, loosen distributor lock bolt. Rotate distributor until timing marks align. Tighten lock bolt. Recheck timing. 626 1. Connect NGS scan tool to DLC-2 located under left side of instrument panel, left of steering column. See Fig. 12 . Ensure idle speed is correct. See IDLE SPEED & MIXTURE . 2. Connect timing light to high-tension lead No. 1 and check timing. See Fig. 14 . See IGNITION TIMING SPECIFICATIONS table. If ignition timing is not within specification, check CMP sensor, CKP sensor, TP sensor, ECT sensor, neutral switch, clutch switch and transmission range switch. See SYSTEM & COMPONENT TESTING - MIATA, MILLENIA, MPV, PROTEGE & 626 article. If all sensors and switches are okay, replace PCM.

Did anyone try Merlin2021 diagnostic tess and fix this problem with their Mazda Proteges?

I had the exact same problem. No power, rough idle, blinking CEL. I changed the timing belt, tensioner and idler, pluggs, wires, and o2 sensors before I found this site and the info on the crank position sensor. I cleaned mine and started my car and it ran great. I'll replace it now that I know it's been causing my problems. I almost put a used engine in or a new head. Glad I did some research!

Hi,

I just had my Catayltic Converter replaced, and when I started my car, my check engine light was blinking, but everything seemed to run fine, so I disconnected the battery to reset the light, when I started my car the light was off, the next time I started my car about an hour later, the check engine light was back on, but not blinking this time, and I also noticed when I come to a stop the RPM's go pretty low, and then come back to normal, but it never feels like I am going to stall. Could this be the O2 Sensors, they have never been replaced. Or something else.

Thanks,
Sam

It could well be an O2 sensor, but you need to do is have the computer scanned. What ever tripped your check engine light should be logged in memory. Our knowing what code(s) are retrieved will really help us isolate your problem. Auto Zone will do a scan for free as well as most other major parts stores. Let us know what you find out.

Remove the catalytic converter from the exhaust. If you can, insert a temporary section of pipe and test drive the vehicle. If the problem goes away, you have a plugged catalytic converter. If not, perform Merlin's repair and test.

Thanks for the info the_firstman_84

The_firstman_84,
How did you clean your crank position sensor?

Check engine light comes on. Had diagnosed by mechanic, changed Map sensor and check for vacuum leaks. Mechanic said no vacuum leaks. Light still comes on, most of the time. What should I look for?

There's over a thousand potential diagnostic fault codes, and many that pertain to any one sensor circuit. Need to know the exact fault code number to know how to start diagnosing the problem. Be aware that fault codes never say to replace parts or that they're defective. They only indicate the circuit or system that needs further diagnosis. When a sensor is referenced in a code, that sensor is actually only bad about half of the time. It is just as likely there is a wiring problem related to that sensor.

Also, there's always a long list of conditions that must be met to set a fault code, and one of them is certain other codes can't already be set. The computers continually run a number of self-tests, and they compare various sensor readings and operating conditions to each other to determine when there's a problem. If there's a code related to a sensor that is used as a reference or for comparison to another sensor, the computer knows it can't rely on those readings so it suspends some of the tests it runs. Once the problem is solved and the fault codes are erased, the tests resume. THAT'S when a totally different problem may be detected for the first time and the Check Engine light may turn on again. You could have a completely different problem. That's why we need to know the code number. We also need to know the symptoms. There's a lot of things to check related to a fault code. Knowing the symptoms can shorten that list of suspects.

I recently got this car, and i do not really know much about cars. But the check engine light was on so i took it to Autozone and two codes popped up. The codes were p1250 and p1569. I am wondering what these two codes could potentially mean and what the price range to fix it would be?

P1250 Mazda - Fuel pressure regulator control valve circuit fault.

Possible causes:

Faulty Fuel Pressure Regulator Control Valve
Fuel Pressure Regulator Control Valve harness is open or shorted
Fuel Pressure Regulator Control Valve circuit poor electrical connection

P1569 MAZDA - VTCS Solenoid Valve Circuit Low Input

Possible causes:

Faulty Variable Tumble Control System (VTCS) Solenoid Valve
VTCS Solenoid Valve harness is open or shorted
VTCS Solenoid Valve circuit poor electrical connection

My experience has been wiring and connector terminal problems cause more electrical problems than the sensors and valves. These codes refer to detecting electrical circuit faults, not mechanical problems which are caused by valves. Also, when there are two codes referring to electrical problems, start by suspecting they have a common cause.

We do not get involved with costs here because there are way too many variables. We do not even know what is wrong yet, or how long it will take to find the causes of the problems or repair them.

Mazda- P1250 - Pressure regulator control solenoid circuit : Try a simple disconnect/reconnect to see if it is just corroded contacts. The solenoids do fail as well. Simple part to replace. Video showing the testing of a similar unit, but it is just as easy to just replace the valve.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ucOq-83Hv2Y


Mazda- P1569 - Intake manifold air control - circuit low - this can take a bit more work to test. But again the first thing would be to check the connections because it is an older vehicle.

Cost of repair depends a lot on what is found during testing.

I have an 01' Mazda Protege and my check engine light just came on yesterday. It's running fine, but when I'm stopped sometimes it feels like something drops. It's hard to explain, but it kind of feels like the whole engine is dropping. A few months ago it was overheating so my dad replaced the thermastat and timing belt so I know it couldn't be those. I'm just worried about driving in winter with this problem so if anybody has had this problem or knows what it could be please help!

If the check engine light is on, there is a trouble code stored in the computer that will identify where the problem is coming from. What you need to do is have the computer scanned. Most nationally recognized parts stores will do it for free.

Have that done and let me know what you find.
Joe

I have a 2001 Mazda Protege and the check engine came on, i just got it checked out and i got the codes p0445 and p0660. what do these means, is it a HAVE TO FIXED RIGHT NOW OR CAR WILL BREAKDOWN kind of thing or can i drive it for a bit and save money to get it fixed?

actually its p0455

try replacing the gas cap, have the code removed. this may have comeon after you got gas. the cap has to tighten 3 clicks at least inorder to seal properly. otherwis it's a big leak in the evap system.