1999 Mazda Protege engine missfires

Tiny
DAVID COSSEY
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 MAZDA PROTEGE
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 116,000 MILES
I changed timing the timing belt on my 1999 mazda protege 1.6 and after that the engine cuts out at 4500rpm and then cuts back in under 4500 rpm. I double checked timing marls and everything is correct. I did notice that the timing sprocket for the sensor to fire ignition can be put on without any indication of its right position in reference to crankshaft. This sprocket is designed with one tooth missing and can be mounted in any of four positions on the four mounting bolts. Does anyone know the right position as I can not find any reference to this in any of the car books I have read and also if this is what could be causing the cut out problem?
Sunday, October 19th, 2008 AT 6:11 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
JNOVACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 723 POSTS
Make sure #1 cylinder is locate #1 position on cap position with electric plug up turn rotor to #1 position were cap would be put back in
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Sunday, October 19th, 2008 AT 9:47 PM
Tiny
DAVID COSSEY
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
There is no distributor on this car it is a sprocket and a hall effect sensor senses the teeth.
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Sunday, October 19th, 2008 AT 11:48 PM
Tiny
JNOVACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 723 POSTS
The basics of setting the camshaft synchroniser are as follows:

1) Set the engine #1 cylinder to TDC on the firing stroke, after setting the transmission in Neutral.

2) Position the synchroniser alignment tool onto the head of the synchroniser body (the camshaft sensor needs to be removed). The worm gear will need to be rotated to allow the tool to be installed.

3) Engage the synchroniser body worm gear with the camshaft IN THE CORRECT orientation. This is most important otherwise the fuel injection timing could be compromised. (See Handbook for correct angle or see link below) NOTE: setting angle for 4L is different than 3L. If the angle of the synchroniser is not correct the check engine light (CEL) may become illuminated. The synchroniser will continue to rotate as you push it down into the engine block, it will then be at a different angle. The angle of engagment is what the diagram linked below is showing, i.E. The angle before the synchroniser is seated to the block.

4) Tighten the hold down clamp making sure the crank/camshaft does not move at any time. Recheck the alignment angle !

5) Remove alignment tool & refit camshaft sensor. Do not allow the engine to rotate until the alignment tool is removed!
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Thursday, October 23rd, 2008 AT 1:50 PM

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