1997 Mazda Protege Mazda 97 chokes on take off

Tiny
JACKDOR
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 MAZDA PROTEGE
Engine Performance problem
1997 Mazda Protege 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 130k miles

i previously had ask a question, but now I will give you updates, ok;
the car as been to the dealer because it hesitate and stall when takes off, and when stop at lights,
they change the coil, o ring, distributor and cap, rotor, one bad fuel injector(?)Not sure it needed clean all the fuel injectors, replace the computer,
fuel filter, I change plugs, wires, air filter, hoses all of the top parts, from the egr to air chamber etc,
pcv valve, new battery, fuel regulator, one bottom oxygen sensor, change oil, filter new transmission fluid, new antifreeze, secure the air chamber so it not moves, check for leaks, new terminals for the mass air sensors both terminals, new mass airflow sensor, new egr valve, cleaned the chambers both of them, clean the air intake hose check for leaks, new clamps most of the hoses, also I had new battery clamps, prc solenoid valve, last thing that as been done is the maf and the terminals, and the car runs better, but when I am at a stop or light the car stalls and hesitate a little when I drive the car is great, the engine light is off, last time the engine light come in it was the maf sensor but now when I install new terminals the light is gone, I also check all the fuses everything seems good, after all of this it seems that the car as the same symptom as I first started when I took it to the dealer, I also I am aware that the next job is the time belt and the water pump, for service. Please give me some idea what it can be, everytime I take the car somewhere they find one thing or another but not what the real problem is, any help input is greatly appreciated. Thanks
jackdor
Tuesday, April 28th, 2009 AT 12:06 AM

7 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Hi jackdor,

Thank you for the donation and wow, what a list of things done and replaced.

Seems you have an idling problem.

What is the idling speed when engine is warm?
Does the stalling happens only when you try to take off or does it happen when you engages into gear?

Did you test the compression?
Were the valve clearances checked?
Is your engine 1.5 or 1.8 L?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, April 28th, 2009 AT 11:46 AM
Tiny
JACKDOR
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Hello thanks for reply,
the choking and idle problem is only when I take off and when I stop at lights in gear, does not choke when is in park or neutral, when the engine is cold at first is ok no problem, it starts after it warms up, after I have been driving for a while (30 minutes)
it is 1.5 engine. Today I will clean again the trottle entrance, and I will clean the idle control valve, I never did that, the idling speed when it is warm seem very normal, but then the coughing starts, less than before as I previuously mention.
For my understanding the compression test I know it as been done at the dealer when they did all the testand some work.
I appreciated any imputs and comments
thanks
jackdor
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, April 28th, 2009 AT 12:46 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
If the cleaning of the throttle does not improve, I would suggest checking the valve clearance if it has not been done yet.

Insufficient valve clearances would cause stalling intermittently. Compression test might show differences that might be within limits and non conclusive.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, April 28th, 2009 AT 1:33 PM
Tiny
JACKDOR
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Hello, and againg thank you very much to answer my questions, for the valve do you mean the idle control valve?
Update today:
i have taken the trottle apart and the valve and cleaned both soaked the valve and, after I started it seems that it was better, a little more idle, but after 20 minutes it start againg when I am sitting at light or when I stop completely and in gear, it hesitate and you can almost hear the alternator sound when it does,
the alternator it as been tested at autozone and it is good, the valve is clean but I did not change yet since it is an expence part it could be the eletrical module from the valve that is bad, or none of the above, where my next step should be?Change the valve?
Thanks again
jackdor
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, April 28th, 2009 AT 8:00 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Hi,

I meant the valve tappet, or lifters as it is commonly known, located under the valve cover and camshaft.
It is adjusted by replacement of shims.

Testing the compression can provide some insight into the problem.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, April 29th, 2009 AT 7:10 AM
Tiny
JACKDOR
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Thanks for the suggestions,
my car is finally repaired, I took me a while from 2 different mazda dealers, that they could not find the right problems, but instead they change different parts, it serve me and anyone as an experience to get different estimates before you take to any dealer, I finally find an honest meccanic and someone that understands cars, my all problem was not the idle egr valve, or maf sensor, or idle control valve, , altough I did replaced all of them, compression was good, and clean of trottle helped a lot,
it was the timing belt and water pump that was leaking, and causing a misfire, replace the timing belt, replace the water pump, seals, valve gasket, coil and rotor, plugs and wire for the second time, new hoose for the radiator, and the car is finally working like a charm, it took me more money to fix it, but half of the dealer estimate, and it was all done in one day.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Thursday, May 7th, 2009 AT 12:37 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Thank you for the input. This information is going to be of good use and it would benefit many others, myself included.

Thank you and have a nice day.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, May 7th, 2009 AT 12:22 PM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links