Engine has been running completely normal and has normal power. Check engine comes while driving, it felt like I suddenly was pulling a trailer. Engine seemed suddenly sluggish; throttle became hesitant upon attempted acceleration. I continued to my destination and shut the engine off. Left the car about 5 minutes and returned. Engine started normal and the check engine light was off and did not come back, car was completely normal again. Car ran perfectly for the next 3 weeks. I had been driving for about 45 minutes and suddenly the check engine came on again with the same issues as before, sluggish, hesitation when acceleration. This time it began to idle funny at the red lights or stop signs but did not die. I pulled off the road to a safe spot and turned the key off. Waited about 10 seconds and restarted the engine. Just as before the light did not come back on. Two weeks later the check engine light returned. I again shut the engine down and restarted it. This time about 20 seconds after starting the light return and has remained on to this day. I found a OBD1 manel and tester online and bought it. Code 43 is revealed.
My booklet says Code 43 is: EST circuit - low voltage detected OR ESC circuit problems. I have continued driving and new problems have surfaced, it will now stall or surge up and down on RPM or both. Driving is still sluggish. Now when driven a short distance when you shut it off it may not start again. It will start and die repeatedly. If you wait about 10 to 15 minutes, it will start right up and run sluggishly down the road. I've heard it pop and backfire under the hood like the timing is way off, only when it won't restart. Once it starts it won't do that popping and backfiring. I don't think coils are bad, not likely to lose all three coils at once, I have changed the plugs because I didn't know how long they had been in there. 4 of the six plugs looked normal like you would expect them to be. The 2 plugs on the passenger side of the engine were snow white, like they were put a couple days ago. I have driven 7,000 miles since I got it. I've never seen plugs that white before, I mean like straight out of the box white. Now I can't depend on the car to take me to and from any destination. So, I have tinkered with it. I changed the knock sensor and the water temperature sensor since they were cheap to replace. I did not expect that to change anything, and it didn't. Knock sensor detects a misfire or knock it should not be able completely shut the car down, should it? I have also noted that when first started the engine runs perfectly until that check engine light comes, once the light comes on the problems began. No light, no problems. So, I don't think the normal calls to change plugs and plug wires, knock sensor and knock sensor wire harness, replace the coils, ect. If they were bad, how did they all go bad at the same time and moment that that light comes on? I found out how to trick the light to turn off. With the car running, the light can be turned off for 3 to 4 seconds at a time. When turned off the engine instantly returns to normal running, you can hear it, motor speeds up and the rough running stops, as soon as the light comes back on the engine returns to the poor running status. Let me know what you think!!!
My booklet says Code 43 is: EST circuit - low voltage detected OR ESC circuit problems. I have continued driving and new problems have surfaced, it will now stall or surge up and down on RPM or both. Driving is still sluggish. Now when driven a short distance when you shut it off it may not start again. It will start and die repeatedly. If you wait about 10 to 15 minutes, it will start right up and run sluggishly down the road. I've heard it pop and backfire under the hood like the timing is way off, only when it won't restart. Once it starts it won't do that popping and backfiring. I don't think coils are bad, not likely to lose all three coils at once, I have changed the plugs because I didn't know how long they had been in there. 4 of the six plugs looked normal like you would expect them to be. The 2 plugs on the passenger side of the engine were snow white, like they were put a couple days ago. I have driven 7,000 miles since I got it. I've never seen plugs that white before, I mean like straight out of the box white. Now I can't depend on the car to take me to and from any destination. So, I have tinkered with it. I changed the knock sensor and the water temperature sensor since they were cheap to replace. I did not expect that to change anything, and it didn't. Knock sensor detects a misfire or knock it should not be able completely shut the car down, should it? I have also noted that when first started the engine runs perfectly until that check engine light comes, once the light comes on the problems began. No light, no problems. So, I don't think the normal calls to change plugs and plug wires, knock sensor and knock sensor wire harness, replace the coils, ect. If they were bad, how did they all go bad at the same time and moment that that light comes on? I found out how to trick the light to turn off. With the car running, the light can be turned off for 3 to 4 seconds at a time. When turned off the engine instantly returns to normal running, you can hear it, motor speeds up and the rough running stops, as soon as the light comes back on the engine returns to the poor running status. Let me know what you think!!!
Jul 26, 2023 at 12:14 PM
