Where is the Circuit Opening relay located?

Hello Sean M,
Thanks for responding with your answer. I did hear the fuel pump working for a couple seconds after putting in a new pump. The car would start but cut off right away. When starter fluid was used the car ran about 5 seconds longer. Next, I loosened the bolt at the top of the filter to see if fuel would come out with the key switched on. Fuel only came out when I cranked it. I'm going to look for the relay where you said - passenger side kick panel. The last time I looked, there was a mass of wires hanging out there. Thanks for the diagrams and relay testing info. I'll let you know what I come up with.

Hey Sean M, how are you doing? To follow-up from the last time, I found a 5-pin relay believed to be the opening circuit relay where you said it was. Based on the tests that I learned to perform it's working properly. I think your suggestion about there being internal resistance has merit. I measured the voltage at the battery and then measured the voltage across the pump connector. There was 0.66 drop in voltage between the two. This measurement was taken with the switch on and the connector unattached. To the pump. There was a 0.10 drop on the negative side and a 0.56 drop on the positive side. It was recommended to test pump voltage under load, but the pump connector is not easily back probed. I don't see how to take this reading with the connector attached to the pump. Do you think I have enough information to conclude that I have to test each circuit element to find this resistance? I don't know how to trace the whole pump circuit. Would I use a continuity tester and a test light or multimeter. I'm afraid of shorting out the PCM or computer. What do you think?

Hey Sean M,

I'm realizing that I've been taking readings across the wrong terminals to the pump connector. This led me to believe the pump was getting proper voltage when it was not. I'm actually getting zero voltage across pin 4 and 5. So, this should explain no activity with the key on. As before, the car starts but cuts off immediately. How would you proceed from here? The fuses and relays check out. Since there is no voltage to the pump through the car, how would you apply voltage directly to check that the new pump does work? Would you tap into the connector wires or jump from the battery to the male contacts at the pump?

Hey Sean M,

Just a quick summary, the car starts every time and cuts off immediately. Starter fluid helps it run longer. There is zero voltage across terminals 4 and 5 of the pump connector. I haven't found any problems with ground. But when I probed the connector to the open circuit relay one of the contacts was dead. The test light did not indicate red or green as with the others. My interpretation is open circuit in one of the wires supplying the 5-pin relay. I believe this could be the culprit. I haven't been able to get a clear diagram in enough detail to identify color and purpose of the wires going to the relay. One of the wires is always red for hot. Another wire turns from ground to hot when the switch is turned on. Could the dead wire be supplied by the ECU. How can it be checked. In which direction should I go.

Regards,
Patrick

Hey Sean M,

I'm reading the battery voltage at the constant power connection to the relay. For the one controlled by the on-switch, I read 11.75 voltage when battery reads 12.23 volts. The other three contacts read 0.0 to less than 2volts. When I applied direct power to the fuel pump, it did start running, but there was no pressure coming out from the filter to the fuel rail. The car did not start when jumping the pump and cranking the engine together.