Leaking crankshaft seal?

Here's where it stands. I have the oil pump back in with a new O-ring, gasket and small rubber ring that I'm assuming fits over the round protrusion on the inside of the oil pump. There wasn't one when I removed it. The gasket was very brittle and burnt. The intake cam did move backwards a little, after the belt was off, for some reason while I was using a puller on the timing gear. It is what it is, and I don't see how this is any different than any other interference engine. Both cams spring on the CRV when the chain is off. Like you said the timing gear can only go on the crank one way. The balancer can only go one way. All the marks are lined up and I rolled it over several times by hand and there was no resistance other than compression. In the photos you'll see two red marks on the timing gear and the marks on both cams. With everything lined up #1 is nowhere near TDC. I'm afraid to fire it up. Normally timing is set with #1 at TDC.

That's exactly how it looks in the photos I sent. Were you able to see the red lines on the timing gear and in the other photo the cam marks lined up as they should with the notches in the top cover. Now my problem is trying to get the crank nut to 133 ftlbs and the 4 bolts on the balancer to 44 ftlbs. I'm afraid to go that high. It seems like they will snap. Those are the specs though according to Volvo.

I placed a maple block at an angle against the teeth to jam the cam gears. Necessity is the mother of invention.

It worked but then I was double checking it and it must have slipped but the belt broke. Lol. It was probably weak from oil saturation or age and needed to be replaced anyway. I had to remove the balancer again to put the new belt on and this time I used a bolt in one of the balancer mounting holes and a pry bar up against the control arm. I was able to hit torque spec and only bend the bolt a little. It was only grade 3. It's back together now and I'm waiting for a serpentine belt this afternoon. It turns over freely by hand and stays in time. Better yet the spark plugs are out and with the coils sitting on top I can see both valves in each cylinder working. Hopefully it will fire this evening or tomorrow morning. After all this there's a good chance the leak is from the VVT on the exhaust cam. Hope not. That one looks fun. Somehow have to lock the cam, I think. It's always something. Laying on the ground is the bad part but having to wear readers to see up close is worse.

The engine started right up and no leaks from the crank or oil pump but as suspected either the VVT hub or the exhaust cam seal are leaking. Any easier way to set the VVT hub back to the exact location if removed? I see they use a tool to lock the cams from the driver's side end. Unfortunately, the exhaust cam gear isn't splined or keyed so this one looks really fun. Thanks for all your help thus far.

It also seems like the tensioner sticks after it advances to tighten the belt when hot. Could the mounting bolt be too tight? Spec says 15 ftlbs

I have the dampener torqued to 133 ftlbs which is the spec. The issue is whether I'm going to replace the VVT hub on the exhaust cam. The car runs great, but it might be leaking oil out either the exhaust cam seal or the VVT hub. I'm not sure yet, it could just be residual oil spinning off the gear from the crank seal leak. Before I do anything, I have to determine if it's leaking at all.

After doing some research I found that the VVT hub commonly leaks. I ended up removing the outer ring, gear, off the exhaust cam VVT hub and replacing the o-ring on the post that pushes out on the gear. It's spring loaded. I didn't need to do anything to lock the cams because you don't disturb the hub in this procedure. I'm going to replace those Volvo socket only screws with cap screws. I have redone the timing at least 5 times and can set it up in my sleep, lol. I drove the car 100 miles and the hub is completely dry. The o-ring I used was 8.8mm ID with a 1.9mm cross section in case someone else has this issue.

I see previous posts of people with this problem and a shop will never do just this. They will replace the entire hub for around $2000.

Nice to know, on to my next project.