Starter not working the engine is not cranking over?

This sounds like the battery is getting weak but to confirm the issue let's follow this guide.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

And if the battery fails follow this guide.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-car-battery

Please run down these guides and report back.

Cheers, Ken

Did you do the load test? I have seen new battery go bad. Can you make a video of what the car is doing and upload it here in your response?

Cheers, Ken

Start by checking the ignition switch also this guide will help is fix it

This guide can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Please run down this guide and report back.

Hi Have you tried your spare key? Does alarm go off?
The FOB or key turned to on will disarm. Have you checked battery? Can you get a jump start? Any fault in anti-theft will require a scan tool to diagnosis.
Let me know
Thanks for donate

The problem isn't the battery or the neutral safety switch. Neutral safety switches are used with automatic transmissions. You will have a clutch pedal switch, and it's unlikely it failed from replacing the battery.

Most likely it is in anti-theft mode. Most mechanics use some type of memory saver when they disconnect the battery to prevent loss of memories in the many computer modules. First try locking, then unlocking the doors with the key fob. If that isn't working, unlock a front door with the key.

There is a different cause if you hear a single rather loud clunk from the starter each time you turn the ignition switch to "crank".

I'm going on the assumption all newer vehicles have an anti-theft system, but that may not be the case with yours. As I recall, the anti-theft system was part of a package that included power locks. Regardless, there are a lot of things built in now that will prevent the engine from starting if programming is lost in a computer or if the Body Computer can't communicate with all the other computers to turn them on when you turn on the ignition switch. Usually if that happens you will see a message "no buss" in the odometer display.

The first thing is to check the fuses under the hood and inside. It is common for one or two to blow from the surge when a battery is reconnected.

By the way, you mentioned installing a battery with a different CCA rating. This is one time when "bigger is better", but smaller is often still better than what came as original equipment. A higher CCA rating just means that battery can deliver a higher amount of current if it is needed. It will not deliver any more current than what is needed. You need about 350 CCA, (cold cranking amps), to start the engine on a cold day. Most original batteries are in the area of 650 CCA. You can buy one with as much as 1000 CCA or even more, but you're paying a lot more for power you will never need or use.

DID YOU GET 'ER DONE?

IF NOT, MAYBE SOMETHING IN HERE MIGHT HELP?

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1996-chevrolet-tahoe-wont-start-sounds-dead-battery-jumpbox-get-same-reults

I HAVE SOME PICS AT THE END OF THE LINK

THE MEDIC

WELL OVER 7000 ANSWERS PROVIDED

I would want to see the battery readings myself, as far as voltage, when the problem is ongoing. Use a digital multimeter across battery posts, everything off, around 12.6 volts is generic spec for a full charge, leave meter leads hooked up to battery, have helper turn key to crank, watch the voltage drop on meter, how far? If it drops to zero, usually the battery or cables, can't rule out starter at the moment. Intermittent issues are a pain, you have to test when problem is ongoing.

Hi Alan Forster, Welcome to 2carpros and TY for the donation.

Double check battery condition and connections to include the starter side

Do this: Find the clutch switch on the clutch pedal bracket disconnect it and jumper it and also the starter relay in the power distribution center swap it with a like one and see what happens-Also view the Starting system EWD