Once you turn the car it will not start again

Begins totally zero dash light activity zero clicks, and about 4-5 boosts before clicks and turnover begin. Fifth jump cranks eh maybe. Recharge pocket boost box 20,000 Mah capacity. I let it run for an hour today bumping the gas from under the hood, sounded great like a v6 that sounds like a v8 ya know what we love about it. After running the lights and checked the blinker/hazards ABS and TRAC OFF appear on the dash with a 0 on odometer until a successful jump-start. Switch off and not even remotely thinking of removing the key back to zero clicks once it’s off it will not jump-start again per the day even with HD jumper cables. Made sure ground, neutral, and positive are tight at the points under the hood, almost got shocked by the socket so there is some juice but nothing. I would like to take it to the parts store but if I cut the switch off for the test it will not boost again for the day and there she sits. From what I can see in the tire well contacts to the battery look great. I am in the 2 years of one off JX aka Jxi 99 and 00 years are a nightmare. It’s exasperation in its finest. My dad said he would look at it tomorrow but it was amusing when he had the car as the alarm would go off and it would take 30 minutes to pull everything and I pulled the horn relay; effectively knocking the problem out in under 5 minutes. It’s back in and it gave me a honk when I closed the hood. Hmm with zero clicks and nothing on the dash but flickers. Chrysler is not really in his wheelhouse especially modern mechanical. Tomorrow voltage regulator and possibly removing the driver front tire to remove the battery for auto parts store testing.

I wish it was fuse 8 but no dice as per the 99 and 00 model convertibles everything varies “series 1”

Assembled in Mexico April of 2000 series 1. The other sticker says it was put on the door in USA.

Have not reached that point. I have 2 ground faults one under the hood and one under the dash, the car is on a charger and the battery is at app 12 volts, likely we will have to jump start it for starter testing but yesterday was all fuses being tested with negative cable removed to use the charger to test the fuses. At first it appeared to be the #13 fuse as a definitive answer which is the ABS fuse 40 amp, then it appeared to be rear defroster.

My mirror is disconnected from a power source, speakers new factory AMp has not worked.

The ground faults are causing an engaging click under the hood source unknown and another under the dash in the steering section which sounds more like the brake pedal clicks.

My dad is again at it, I just heard a whit-tar-tar click after a while 24 hours on the charger (grrr, no turn over) he’s using a voltage regulator. Understanding that the car has to be started to check the voltage on the starter and or alternator. Stalemate at the moment, the jump start due to ground faults is a downer on the jump start box 20000 Mah freshly charged is going to drain at a few attempts to jump the battery. He said it smelt like a burning wire around the steering area and wheel but nothing can be found to mark the reason or source of a solder smell/ arc draw. Horn relay alerted the horn when he put the charger on it not knowing I had stuck it back in place to which is not the drain after a year with it out it only alerted that he was indeed checking the car and put it on the charger. I feel like I set him up for it, he had to hit the horn hard to stop it. I then removed the relay again. A girl has to have some mark of a problem solving promise met honk. If he had told me what he was doing I would have told him to remove the relay from the fuse panel.

Chrysler;sorry

That would be great!

I have ordered a reader usb for iOS but it will be after I need the car running when I receive it and of course that takes a jump start.

Most people wouldn’t have a wit for such a username, most women know nothing about cars. The dashboard tear down will be interesting to say the least. I feel I will know every facet of the car before I kick it and sell.

Do you need the VIN because it’s within that gap? It should be on the picture of the door sticker; finicky and no user manual to see.

My brother is highest rated ASE and 2nd level technical long in the bones of cars, I believe the tilt of his head with raised brow he’s ready to kick it for me. He said he felt starter until these details of ground faults came about.