Jingling sound when acceleration and deceleration

Tiny
ROBC1985
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 GMC SIERRA
  • 5.3L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 184,000 MILES
I have a jingling sound coming from somewhere in my truck. I only hear it when I pass a wall of any sort or road divider. Not getting louder and gets slower or faster depending on whether acceleration or deceleration. I replaced my front wheel bearings and all other components in the area. And I put a used rear on about 14 months ago. The noise started for the first time 2 weeks ago and doesn't seem to be getting worse. Seems to be on both sides far as I can tell and I'm not sure if it's the front or the back, but I've done so much up front I would expect it to be in the rear. I did install new rims but didn't have them balanced my self. They came off another truck that was wrecked but the tires receives no damage. What should I do?
Monday, May 25th, 2020 AT 12:59 PM

20 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

Does the sound speed up and slow down with vehicle speed? Also, are the wheels you installed factory wheels or are they aftermarket?

If they are aftermarket, inspect them to see if something is rubbing on the brake caliper or other component on the vehicle. Often times, the offset can be different and causes things to touch.

Next, is there anything you can do to stop the sound? For example, does it change if you apply the brakes? If so, confirm the brakes are in good condition and there isn't excessive rust on the rotors which can make this type of sound. Additionally, confirm the backing plates behind the brake rotors are not touching the rotor itself. Something may have been bent or rust can be an issue.

Let me know. Also, confirm if the vehicle has to be under load (acceleration) to make the noise or if it does it when you coast as well.

Let me know.

Joe
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Monday, May 25th, 2020 AT 7:43 PM
Tiny
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Sound is same at all speeds just gets faster or slower. Brake shields are new and not touching brake pads are a little low, but not bad. Factory Nissan wheels my truck is a GMC. My other wheels are aftermarket and when they was on I didn't hear anything like this, but they sounded like a semi to me. I'll change them back on tonight to see if that changes anything. Braking doesn't change the sound. One brake in the driver side rear was touching the drum so I pulled it out and clamped the line. I'll have to replace that now, but it didn't change the sound. Coasting braking or accelerating doesn't change the sound at all. The rear drums are rusty and I cleaned them down some, but not all the way. But in your professional opinion could something be going bad? Like maybe the axle or rear bearings?
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Tuesday, May 26th, 2020 AT 8:28 AM
Tiny
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Hi,

Anything is possible, but since it started with the new wheels, I have a feeling they are to blame. The wheels could have a different offset and something is touching. When you take them off, inspect them real closely for any evidence of something rubbing. Also, do the same with the brake caliper and anything that could touch. Under these circumstances, I suspect you will find one of the wheels is touching a caliper.

Let me know.

Joe
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Tuesday, May 26th, 2020 AT 10:56 AM
Tiny
ROBC1985
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Changing rims changed nothing. I tightened a few things, but no change at all in that either. I'm really not sure as to what else I could do to alleviate this sound/issue. Also if I didn't mention before, tnis truck is lifted 11 inches and has lots of extra parts under it.
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Saturday, May 30th, 2020 AT 11:01 AM
Tiny
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Also nothing is touching either set of wheels. No damage to anything on caliper or rims or anything else.
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Saturday, May 30th, 2020 AT 11:03 AM
Tiny
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Have you checked things such as heat shields? Also, the internal components in the catalytic converter can come loose and rattle. Take a rubber mallet and tap in the exhaust to see if you can recreate the sound.

Is it possible for you to record the sound and upload it for me to hear?

Joe
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Saturday, May 30th, 2020 AT 9:02 PM
Tiny
ROBC1985
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I am trying to send a couple videos I got this morning while driving. They are the best I can get you of the sound as too this is the only way I ever hear it myself.
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Monday, June 1st, 2020 AT 12:07 PM
Tiny
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Sounds good. I will watch for them.

Joe
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Monday, June 1st, 2020 AT 8:15 PM
Tiny
ROBC1985
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Here's 2.
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Tuesday, June 2nd, 2020 AT 10:43 AM
Tiny
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Another.
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Tuesday, June 2nd, 2020 AT 11:34 AM
Tiny
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I heard it in the second one. Have you checked u-joints and axle joints? It was hard to tell just because of the background noise, but that is where I would start.
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Tuesday, June 2nd, 2020 AT 7:52 PM
Tiny
ROBC1985
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I believe your right about u-joints, but due to the fact that they are factory originals the front shaft is stuck in the transfer case and I can't pull it out. Also the jingle sound has mostly loose bolts in my 6 stability bars under the truck. I tightened them and the jingle virtually disappeared. Also my skid plate was missing a bolt. I installed that too. Do you have any tips to get out the front drive shaft. I can't pull it with anything due to the lift being so high. Everything has a lift under it, including the transmission and transfer case.
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Sunday, June 14th, 2020 AT 1:00 PM
Tiny
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You have to remove the clamp on the rubber boot that attached the driveshaft to the output shaft on the transfer case. Here are the directions. The pics attached correlate with the directions.

____________________

2000 GMC Truck K 1500 Truck 4WD V8-5.3L VIN T
Propeller Shaft Replacement
Vehicle Transmission and Drivetrain Drive/Propeller Shafts, Bearings and Joints Drive/Propeller Shaft Service and Repair Procedures Propeller Shaft Replacement
PROPELLER SHAFT REPLACEMENT
Tools Required
- J 43218 Clamp Plier

Removal Procedure

pic 1

1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
2. Remove the transfer case shield. Refer to Shield Replacement.
3. Remove the clamp (4) at the transfer case (3) by prying up the exposed end of the clamp (4) with a flat bladed tool.

Important: Observe and accurately reference mark all driveline components relative to the propeller shaft and axles before disassembly. These components include the propeller shafts, the wheel drive shafts, the pinion flanges, the output shafts, etc, All components must be reassembled in the exact relationship to each other as they were when removed. In addition, published specifications and torque values, as well as any measurements made prior to disassembly must be followed.

4. Reference mark the relationship of the propeller shaft (5) to the front axle flange (1).

Pic 2

5. Remove the bolts (6) and the yoke retainers (7) from the front axle flange (1).

Important: Do not pound on the propeller shaft when trying to disconnect the propeller shaft.

6. Slide the propeller shaft rearward enough in order to disengage. Move the propeller shaft forward.

Important: Avoid dropping the bearing cap assemblies of the yoke end.

7. Remove the propeller shaft (5).
8. Inspect the propeller shaft (5) for any evidence of damage.

Installation Procedure

pic 3

1. Verify that the splines of the transfer case are coated with sufficient grease. If not, use special Teflon grease (GM P/N 9985830). Refer to Fluid and Lubricant Recommendations.
2. Place the new clamp in the groove of the propeller shaft boot.
3. Install the propeller shaft splines into the transfer case output shaft.
4. Install the boot onto the transfer case output shaft until the boot snaps into the groove on the OD of the output shaft.

Pic 4

5. Crimp the clamp using the J 43218 according to the crimping specifications.

Pic 5

6. Install the propeller shaft (5) to the front axle flange (1).
7. Line up the reference marks made previously.

Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.

8. Install the yoke retainers (7) and the bolts (6).
Tighten the yoke retainer bolts to 25 Nm (19 ft. Lbs.).
9. Install the transfer case shield. Refer to Shield Replacement.
10. Lower the vehicle.

___________________

Let me know if this helps.

Joe
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Sunday, June 14th, 2020 AT 5:50 PM
Tiny
ROBC1985
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I already tried that approach. It is stuck in the transfer case.
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Tuesday, June 23rd, 2020 AT 7:30 PM
Tiny
ROBC1985
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Here is a new question: Today my rear drive shaft broke. From what I could tell the Moog U-Joint seems to be the problem because it was snapped in 2. I got my truck home with the front wheels only. I have a slip yoke and looks like all my oil leaked out, since the yoke is out. Is there some way I can seal this off to stop the leak until I can fix this issue( buy new parts) or is my truck basically out of service until I install the new parts.
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Tuesday, June 23rd, 2020 AT 7:34 PM
Tiny
ROBC1985
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I only have the one vehicle and I work 40 miles away.
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Tuesday, June 23rd, 2020 AT 7:36 PM
Tiny
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Honestly, you need to have the driveshaft in for it to seal. There isn't a way to prevent the leaking otherwise.

Joe
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Tuesday, June 23rd, 2020 AT 8:28 PM
Tiny
ROBC1985
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I have an issue that issue and I don't know what to do to fix this issue. My truck will barely start sometimes but cranks fine. When it will start, it shuts off but then re-fires so long as I'm moving and will start again if I'm quick to hit the switch at a stoplight or stop sign. Sometimes it takes longer but that mostly works. I got to started after work today by swapping fuses around but I tried again and it wont start again. While still in Memphis I also checked the fuel pressure by pressing the valve on the fuel rail and nothing came out not one drop. But I pulled out my fuel pressure regulator and finely I found fuel, but not much. Still no pressure in the fuel rails or lines. I thought maybe my ignition coils were bad but 3 out of 8 I know fire. I checked with a screw driver inserted and held near something to jump the spark to. FYI; got to be careful I shocked the shit out of my self. I thought maybe injectors but without fuel pressure then no way they could work plus the probably would start or run crappy and this issue started 3 days ago, when I got stuck at the parts store. And the truck starts but I don't know what's starting it because I can't find one thing that gets it started. When it does run it shuts off a lot but re-fires if I'm quick to the key to turn or in motion of 20+. I restarted it 4 times at one light this morning. And I would say it turned off 20 times or more over the 60 mile trip home. Won't fire at all now, cranks fine. I will pull off the fuel filter and see if fuel runs the pump is 5-6 months old. Filter too.

Please tell me anything this could possibly be because I'm pretty well lost on this issue because it seems to me that my new fuel pump isn't working and the relay for the pump I got at the same time. I don't know that this is wiring because it was moving sometimes since this started but it's not for now. Please help me narrow down my possibilities.
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Monday, August 24th, 2020 AT 9:11 PM
Tiny
ROBC1985
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Also I do have a oil leak I can't find. It's been leaking since last year. Could that short out my fuse box?
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Monday, August 24th, 2020 AT 9:12 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

I have to ask if you would please repost the new questions on their own threads. We are trying to keep questions specific to one topic.

I hope you understand. Once you repost, someone will answer you. I will keep my eyes open for it.

Take care and thanks,
Joe
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 7:50 PM

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