Will not start when hot

Hi Sunshine52377. Welcome. To relate it to high temperature and sitting with a hot engine for a short time suggests the engine cranks but does not start up and run. A heat-sensitive, (failing), crankshaft position sensor is a common suspect but they will usually cause a diagnostic fault code to be memorized in the Engine Computer which will turn on the Check Engine light. If no code is present I would replace the engine coolant temperature sensor. because it can cause these problems as well.

Here is a guide:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/coolant-temperature-sensor-cts-replacement

Here is the location on your car I gave both engines.

Check out the diagrams (below)

Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Caradiodoc

Check battery terminals.
Charge and or replace battery.

If you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over do you hear the pump prime in the tank for five seconds?

Cheers, Ken

Have it checked for a parasitic draw may be wearing battery down causing it.

Yes, it could be the ignition switch. But you need to follow a logical order for diagnosis of a no start.

1) Ignition system.
2) Fuel system.
3) Compression.
4) Computer/sensors/switches.

Has the battery was recently disconnected or run drained? This is a common problem, and the clue is the engine runs fine as long as you hold the accelerator pedal down 1/4". Idle speed is too low because the Engine Computer has not relearned "minimum throttle". Until that occurs, the engine will be hard to start unless you hold the pedal down 1/4", you will not get the nice idle flare-up to 1,500 rpm at start-up, and it will tend to stall stop signs.

To meet the conditions for the relearn to take place, drive at highway speed with the engine warmed up, then coast for at least seven seconds without touching the pedals.

The easiest observation is the engine should run up to around 1,500 rpm for a few seconds after starting, then come right down to around 800 rpm. Mechanics can tell if minimum throttle has been learned by observing the automatic idle speed motor "steps" the Engine Computer has commanded it to. A scanner is needed for that. Typical for a well-running engine is step 32, (out of 256 steps). If you find it on step "0", minimum throttle has not been learned. Try doing the relearn procedure while holding the brake pedal up with your toes. If the brake light switch flickers on due to road vibrations, during the seven-second coast, that will abort the relearn event.

If you find the AIS motor is on a higher step, like 50 or more, the computer is trying to increase engine speed, but without success. That involves a different set of diagnostic procedures related to low engine performance.

Are you not getting power to anything?

Doubtful. There is a means of detecting leaks in the fuel vapor recovery system which would increase emissions. Chrysler does that by pumping the tank and vapor recovery lines up to two pounds of pressure, then they watch to see how long it takes to bleed down. Gas tank filler hoses usually fit pretty tightly, even without a hose clamp, so while there might have been some seepage, I suspect it was not bad enough to be detected as a leak. Had that happened, a diagnostic fault code would have been set, and the Check Engine light would have been turned on.

Even when there is a "gross leak detected", which most commonly is due to a loose gas cap, that has nothing to do with the pressurized fuel supply system for the engine. You can have the largest of leaks involving the tank, but pressure is still maintained in the supply line to the engine. It is that pressure that is needed for the injectors to work and for the engine to start and run.