Infotainment screen stuck on bmw logo?

Hello. whats the engine size and model (ie, Convertible, Coupe, Sedan? They have different diagrams for the network depending on this. Ill look up the codes some more, but the Flexray is the newer very high speed Canbus. Did you happen to pick up an oscilloscope yet?

328i sedan 2.0l. No oscilloscopy no

ok let me do a little research on these codes, at first glance this looks like a communication issue, even though we arent getting any U codes. But give me a few minutes to see what the code setting criteria is for these codes.

that last one reads E114BE correct? its a bit blury

service info has a 328i Sedan (F30) 2.0l and also a 328i xDrive Sedan AWD (F30) I assume the difference here is just the 2 or 4WD, which I can see includes additional modules for that reason. These codes are not showing up on the manufacturer's DTC chart, was it the DME setting these codes? or which module were they set in?
*EDIT- note- whats the battery voltage with the vehicle off (static) and how far off does the battery voltage drop when loaded, so cranking. I know some of these vehicles have an aux battery as well. The reason Im asking is these are listed as Intermittent codes, do they come back right away with just the key On engine Off, or does it need to run awhile to set them?

Not under dme. Forgot whixh module it was. No this one does not have an aux battery abd the 12v i can tell its new and it starts immediately, everything else functions. I can ot find the codes under any module now. This does not have a nav. But it has all the options around the idrive compared to those that only have just a wheel

E114EB

Ok so the ZGM is the Central Gateway, Im sure you are aware of the newer vehicles and the Gateway module that can limit communications with other modules unless you have a registered scan tool in many cases. The ZGM does communicate with many other modules on the FlexRay network. They are still a 2 wire twisted pair like Canbus, just much faster speeds.
The last code (E114BE) is also showing a signal issue with the EME(Electrical Machine Electronics), and the other modules I am still trying to ID (EGS and DKG), but overall this looks like a network/module issue. Being that they are all setting Intermittent, and no hard faults yet. Ill post what I have so far, but in the wiring diagrams I am currently looking at, it shows the Electrical Machine Electronics module under the Left Front of the vehicle, so start looking for water intrusion into connectors or corroded grounds.
Look for any wet spots under carpets as well. I will keep looking into these codes.
Here is some info on the network, along with the FlexRay topology showing the modules on the network.
On a 2013 water intrusion and corrosion are the first things I would be looking for. Especially if this has one of those DME covers in the engine compartment that never get put back on correctly.

If the codes cleared out ok, I would just drive it and see what comes back, those codes could have set due to low voltage at any point.

Without a scope its just about impossible to see what the bus waveform looks like. A multimeter is just not fast enough, its only good for checking terminating resistors and shorts to ground/power.

The issue is just that the bmw is stuck and so radio and other options are not working with the idrive. Nothing else affected. Ill drive it and see. Thanks

Can you communicate with the radio or are there modules showing offline too? or it might be listed as the Head Unit. I would also check communications with the Cluster. Even if its working ok, see if theres any historic codes stored.
Because even a camera fault can cause those displays to fault and stay blank, due to a code being set, some control modules will shut down faulting circuits

so by the picture you posted of the shifter options, this is the xDrive model? AWD? There are quite a few differences between the two

these are the two units for the radio Im seeing. the 2nd one is a Head unit.
Service info is also giving two options for the 2.0l, either the N20 or N26, I assume this is some powertrain change.

NO THIS IS A 2WD. I WILL CHECK FOR ANY CODES

Which display do you have? And has the display been like this since you recieved the vehicle? If it was an auction vehicle and someone put a different display in it from another vehicle, it might not work at all.

this is a TSB on some update the manufacturer did. I wish I could see some of these cars you get. You always bring the best electronic faults, my favorite.

Im seeing that if you have tried the Hard Reset, along with the battery disconnect for 30-40min, it states to check the fuse for the xDrive(or iDrive) fuse to make sure there is no corrosion or voltage drop across the fuse. And that makes sense with intermittent codes. But to get the BMW logo, that means there is a lack of communication between either the cluster, gateway or idrive module. And I know BMWs are good for water intrusion. Pull the kick panels on both drives and pass front and check a wet carpet. The kick panels will be next to your left foot drivers side and opposite on pass side.

Did an all scan and got these
I deleted all and without starting the car got these codes under dme
123401
123432 both for turbo. Then this maybe an electrical fault not mechanical
Under CAS:
804193 for a lamp
804483 for rain sensor

The older bmws did have water intrusion issues in the trunk mainly, these f30 never seen one with water intrusion. But I already checked that at all corners including the trunk. Fuse area under the cowl also isn't like it used to be where water seeps in there, it's relocated to be a bit further. BMW did this since 2013. If this is like Benz where its all fiber optiocs then ya one module could affect it and bring it to have a stuck logo, but since the screen shows the logo am assuming there is power connection from the module. These are a bit complicated to diagnose I know. Could be the radio head unit, or the Idrive wheel. it's never a fuse with bmws lol

Attached

so with some searching and trying to understand how this system works, it looks like the Cluster and the Gateway are responsible for the display you are seeing reading BMW, due to what seems to be either part of the cluster or part of the Gateway are crashing at start up, because you need the cluster to send the data you would normally read on the display.
But now with a whole bunch of new codes that werent there before. Erase them, do an idle relearn and/or crank learn procedure and see how it goes. Obviously someone cleared alot of codes before you got to it. Sad. This many codes, that are so random is probably going to be so kind of low voltage/ground issue that is effecting a certain leg of one or maybe more networks.Im jumping ahead tho,
This car has a lot of modules, so clear the codes, check the charging system with some electrical loads and make sure its reading good. Voltage drop the positive and negative side of from the battery to alternator B+ and case,
(below) This is just an idea of how many modules are in this car, but we have some direction. We know the cluster and gateway need to agree to display any data. Lets clear the codes and if you are comfortable we can check some pins on the back of the display and cluster if its easy enough. Start with the live scan data first, go into the cluster and gateway modules. Look for any live data thats out of place.

most of the time with bmws, there are so many codes when the battery goes low, but once the battery is replaced the issues are gone but no one actually go in and delete these codes so they could be history, especially that they don't thro a check engine light. I already cleared all the codes and all that is left and didn't clear are the 4 codes, 2 for the turbo and 2 for the rain sensor and some other nonsense.

these are your latest codes, excuse the mess

I will take a look real quick at the rain sensor and see if it has shared circuits. I just dont trust aftermarket wiring diagrams when it comes to these makes. Anything else at all on the Cluster that doesnt work, or looks out of place, ie a full/empty fuel tank, temp gauge, anything you might notice.

Let me double check but I have not noticed anything

could a blown fuse cause the idrive not to work while the screen still have that logo?

Did you find a blown fuse anywhere? I finally found the service info for the iDrive, they have other components that sound like they would be part of that systen but are not, so this is taking some research here. I would say yes a blown fuse for the iDrive will most likely effect the display since it (iDrive unit), the Gateway and the cluster are required for the "handshake" (or confirmation signal) which allows for data to be displayed on the dash. If you find blown fuses we will need to track down any shorts.

I was able to find the operations of the iDrive, ill post what I have so far, theres more though. I dont know if this is Fiber optics or not, they are calling the comms line a "APIX data line (automotive pixel link)" in service info. But we need to know some more on how the system works and what might be preventing any data from being displayed.
The last diagram talks about a lack of communications with the Central Information Display, so try to pull codes from the module or try viewing live data.
And since we do not have a "No Signal message", but still do have the logo, I think we are missing the data from the Cluster, but I would need to see the messages from the cluster, if they are coming and going, or just coming in and not going out. I will have more testing info coming up.
I highly suggest getting at least a 2 channel hand held scope. You deal with a lot of high end vehicles with more than average amount of networks, this unit from Hantek is pretty good, this is their older model, which also includes a multimeter, scope, and signal generator. I actually have one of these from back in the day. But you need to get into using a scope, I can walk you through any testing with it as well.

I have always been kind of o the edge in getting an oscilloscope, afraid maybe I won't be able to use it as much or get the benefit of it since I don't completely understand how or what I should be looking at while using it. I am also not sure about the benefits of it, maybe this is why I have been ignoring it. Let me watch few YouTube videos on the hantek since it's not that expensive and see if it's something that I can grasp. I always invest in tools but I am always afraid it's gonna stay on the shelf more than being used.

do you have the model number? most of them are the big ones that are more complicated

Dont be worried that you wont understand it, its like anything else, there is a learning curve, but, for one you work on much more complicated vehicles than the average DIY, and you are doing this everyday. When it comes to a scope, start off slow, I will post some links to vidoes for you. You do have a couple options, Pico scopes are used with a laptops, so you will need to have a laptop with you when using it. The smaller scopes have also come a long way though. As an example, when I bought my 2 channel handheld, they didnt have any of these scopes out with 4 channels and bigger screens where you dont need a laptop anymore. I use a 4 channel automotive Pico scope that cost 2k, but that was an investment in my job. Id recommend getting one with a larger screen than the Hantek. 4 channel so you can scope cam, crank signals at once to check timing. the larger screen will help you when looking at network signals for faults.
do a search for "automotive oscilloscope reviews". Also look into Picotech com as well to see what I am referring to. You can actually download the Pico software for free and check it out. They sell a small 2 channel scope for about 150.
And as for testing, we can walk you through any of it. The guys on here are amazing techs. A scope will help you get a visual reference on whats happening on that circuit, with an amp clamp you can see a shorted solenoids, injectors, etc right away. I had to learn scopes myself too, we had very old machines back in school but nothing like today. So dive right in. Ill go through some reviews for you also. Sorry for the long message.

here, watch some of Jakes videos, hes a heavy scope user and deals with a lot of network issues.

https://www.youtube.com/@autodiagyt/videos

Hello, did you find anything yet?

I still cannot decide on which oscilloscope is more user friendly.
I sold the car like it is. Find someone who doesnt care about this issue and will be replacing the whole unit with an aftermarket one for $150z Car rides perfectly except for that. Thanks for all your help

I hoping those last codes didnt come back, and that was some odd low voltage issue. I see interior lamps, info display due to over temperature, etc. the Perm codes look to be the turbo but still electrical too.

oh Ok do you have a decent laptop?

or do you want to stick to a handheld unit? they have some that are tablet size. I use the laptop and 4 chan scope when Im looking for some intermittent issue or for watching cam/crank sensors.

I really rather go with a portable. I hate using laptops and have had bad luck. Anytime i get one i don't use it. I would be ok with a tablet size one

Ok I fully understand, using a laptop based scope is something more of what would be set up in a bay. But this is pico 6 (non automotive) in demo mode. This is their very basic software, which does more than you can imagine. The automotive software is also free, but you need an automotive scope to use it. Something in the 4000series range I think. But you can do long captures with this on a good laptop, catch things you would never see on a meter or test light. We can explain testing as well, Steve is amazing with scopes. He'll have two 8 channels scopes going at once to catch a glitch.
Anyways, you probably want to go with something like a Micsig scope. They are tablet size, and I see some techs using them, you will have to look for an automotive Micsig because there are a bunch of them. It looks like Hantek has come out with a larger screen version as well, I think you can plug theirs in and look at it on a PC if you want to.