Ignition lock cylinder

Tiny
MICHAEL MCCORMICK
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 FORD F-150
  • 4.6L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 140,000 MILES
I recently bought the truck listed above. I bought it with some problems now my problems. I replace the GEM module, I figured it's always good to replace the solenoid if you have to jump it to start the truck. I also replaced the lock cylinder in the steering column, herein lies my problem: I went to Advance Auto and bought one of their "Exact fit" ignition lock cylinders. It didn't exactly fit, halfway in the cylinder jammed up! With a lot of sweat and cursing I finally got it out. I went to another auto parts store and got the right fit. When I was examining the housing to see if any damage occurred I noticed that the two contacts inside the housing that make to the lock cylinder we're broken off! Obviously they're important what are they for and maybe you could you tell me what they are called where where they connect because I can't find that information anywhere. I might be wrong but I assume they go to the ignition switch they're so tiny and they just fit into the housing just perfectly I don't want to screw anything up how do I go about replacing them or do I have to replace the entire housing? This and many more questions can be yours before I push the truck off a cliff! Thanks for any help you can give me on this guy's. I really am stumped P.S the image below is not of my housing it was pulled off the net but those copper contacts appear to be the same position different style but same position.
Tuesday, April 23rd, 2019 AT 12:20 PM

12 Replies

Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello,

Your picture really didn't show much, but I'm thinking that the piece you are talking about is the retainer. In the diagrams down below I have included a detailed exploded diagram of the steering column. It should have the piece you are talking about on it. Please find it and get back to us with what it is and how things are progressing with this situation. If you have any other vehicle related questions, please, feel free to ask. That is what we are here for.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Wednesday, April 24th, 2019 AT 5:41 AM
Tiny
MICHAEL MCCORMICK
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
I attached the picture of the ignition with the new lock cylinder installed and the wires hanging free. My condition is I have a no crank no start. I replaced the gem module / PCM relay /starter relay and I have no joy. I got a multi-meter and a small tool set I'm having a whole lot of fun in the sun if you help me out I'd appreciate it.
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Wednesday, April 24th, 2019 AT 9:37 AM
Tiny
MICHAEL MCCORMICK
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Ignition pictures.
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Wednesday, April 24th, 2019 AT 9:47 AM
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello again,

Okay, so you have replaced the ignition cylinder lock and the Power-train Control Module (PCM). Did you have the ignition keys programmed to the PCM at either the Ford dealership or by a locksmith?

Thanks,
Alex
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Wednesday, April 24th, 2019 AT 6:43 PM
Tiny
MICHAEL MCCORMICK
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
I'm sorry, PCM relay was replaced. It didn't have transponder keys when I bought it so no to the programming. I ran a jumper to the "S" post on the starter solenoid and checked for a voltage drop when turning key to start, no drop, did the same at starter relay on firewall just to cover my bases. Same result. Due to the fact that the GEM was bad removing battery clamp precludes any codes being thrown. I can jump the relay and she will start with the key in run position. I believe I've narrowed it down to starter switch, neutral safety switch, starter solenoid. Are there any ways to test the NSS or starter switch? Lack of sleep is making me stupid.
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Thursday, April 25th, 2019 AT 6:51 AM
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
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Hello,

Do you have a key FOB with a painc button on it to lock and unlock your vehicle's doors?

Thanks,
Alex
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Thursday, April 25th, 2019 AT 10:34 AM
Tiny
MICHAEL MCCORMICK
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
No didn't come with one I believe in 1997 the 150s were optional. I think it's the chime.
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Thursday, April 25th, 2019 AT 11:49 AM
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello again,

Okay, do you have battery voltage (12-12.6 volts) at pin for the control side (electromagnetic coil) of the relay. I have included a wiring diagram of your vehicle's starting circuit as well as a description of what pin on the relay you need to look in the diagrams down below. Please get back to us with the answer, please.

Thanks,
Alex
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Thursday, April 25th, 2019 AT 3:03 PM
Tiny
MICHAEL MCCORMICK
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
I can start the vehicle if I jump the solenoid. While doing voltage drop tests I came upon a draw of 3.8 vDc at the "s" post wire without the key in run or start, and 0 volts when key is turned to start. If I directly power the starter relay "10 gauge jumper wire " I get clicking.I have removed and bench tested all the relays in both engine compartment and under dash for operation only and not ohms. The previous owner stated that the ignition switch "under dash " had recently been replaced, but I'm thinking about doing it again any guidance?
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Thursday, April 25th, 2019 AT 5:10 PM
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello again,

Okay, I understand. This can be very frustrating, and we will get this fixed with a little patience. We are here to help you get your vehicle fixed, so please, do you have battery voltage (12-12.6 volts) at pin for the control side (electromagnetic coil) of the relay. Please follow the directions that were previously included as to find the correct pin on the relay. I have also included instructions on how to do a voltage drop test in the diagrams down below. Please go through the guide and check for voltage and please get back to us with the answer.
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Thursday, April 25th, 2019 AT 7:59 PM
Tiny
MICHAEL MCCORMICK
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
0.2vDc at pin 85, with the in start, run, and out of the ignition.
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Friday, April 26th, 2019 AT 10:10 AM
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello again,

Okay, so working our way backwards, do you have battery voltage at fuse #21(15A) in the Junction Box Fuse/Relay Panel. I have included diagrams of the location and a diagram of the Junction Box Fuse/Relay Panel in the diagrams down below for you. Please get back to us with what you are able to find out. I have also included a link below on how to test a fuse if you are unfamiliar with how to test one.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-car-fuse-works

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Friday, April 26th, 2019 AT 9:30 PM

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