Idle too high when transmission is not in gear?

Hello Ken and thank you for your help. My boot is fine and I have no codes, but the air long plastic tube (to left of item #3 in your pic) is cracked really bad. I cleaned the IAC control valve but noticed a roll pin is missing from it in the bottom. So thus, the barrel can turn on the motor raising or lowering the idle as this roll pin most likely fell out somehow. However, I cant lower the idle any further when I turn it to match the hole in the TAC valve with the hole where the roll pin was the idle air control motor is brand new. Also why is my idle set screw not causing the idle to change? I have it all the way screwed out.

Well, thank you for all the info. I am going to clean the mass air flow sensor. The air filter is good, and intake manifold gasket was replaced a few years ago. I just had the timing belt replaced and the 2 mechanics couldn't fix the high idle either. Please advise. Thanks
As I said, the long plastic air intake (to left of item #3 in your pic) is all busted. Would this cause the problem? Gail

Hi Ken, you mean to replace the long air tube up front above radiator? That part is right to the left on your picture of item #3 (resonance chamber)? It's a long plastic air duct hard to find, it's really broken.

I didn't think that part would affect idle speed, and my set screw increases the idle speed if turn it in (clockwise) its always worked that way. I will try and get that air intake plastic grey tube. Thank you

Hello Ken,

I replaced the idle air control part and also the throttle position sensor. I also cleaned the whole throttle body and removed and cleaned if. Still same issue idles too high and runs rough no check engine light on. I had a broken wire to the throttle sensor but sliced in a new connector. When it was broken it was throwing codes but no codes now. What else could it be? Some say MAF air sensor?
1998 kia sportage 2.0 liter automatic 2wheel drive

Hello Ken, I have tried 3 different idle motors they all buzz (make a buzzing noise) when car is running or key is on position. I had a mechanic come out and when removes the connector on the idle air control valve, the buzzing noise stops. I wouldn't think I had three new bad idle motors?

Also he said on his expensive scanner that I had low voltage p102 or 103 something like that on my MAF air flow sensor. He said to clean it which I did with MAF cleaner but the car still idles a bit high 1,000 RPMs now and the new idle motor still buzzes. Its definitlely the idle motor buzzing. When I unplug the connector to it, it stops buzzing?

I don't want to spend alot of money on computer and all as the car is listed above. Why is this motor buzzing?

Thank you for your help. I hurt my arm so must wait until it gets better. Do I need to replace the MAF sensor? The guy had gotten a PO102 code from my car, he said to clean the MAF but it runs really rough and no change in the idle. He also said where the idle motor connects to car there is a gasket leak from the idle motor gasket is an air leak he said to use sealant around the new idle motor as it leaks around Idle Air Motor Gasket.

What do you think is making it idle so rough? Do you think it skipped time? I had them put a new timing kit on, but the car had all these symptoms before.
The guy who got the MAF low voltage code. Well, it showed on his computer but not my dash or computer.

Hi Ken, sorry to bother you but this car is running rough, and I wish to check each sensor (MAF, IAC, and throttle) but can I do that if I turn can on and disconnect a sensor or two? I'm trying to disconnect the buzzing one but if I do will I be able to test the others for voltage and ground and all? Or do they all have to be plugged in. Also, you said I might need a new ECU. How do I remove the metal clip and remove it from the car? It's on passenger (above floor). Thanks, GAIL