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This is a pretty straight forward starting system and from the info you've provided, you're already half way there! I've attached two diagrams that pretty much cover the entire starting system. Since you were able to start the engine by inserting a jumper at the starter relay, we know the starter and all the high amperage wiring associated with it is in good shape. At this point we need to check Fuse 20 in the under-hood PDC. This fuse provides power from the ignition switch to the starter relay. Assuming the fuse isn't blown, you'll need to get a test light and some help from a friend. Have you helper hold the key in the start position and check for voltage at Fuse 20 with you test light. You should have power present at this fuse with the key turned to start. If not, you likely have a bad ignition switch.
If you had the expected voltage at Fuse 20, we'll need to take a closer look at the control side of the starter relay. Looking at the diagram, power comes in from the ignition switch (through fuse 20) to terminal D11 at the relay. Again using your test light, verify you have power at this terminal with the key turned to start. If power is present, we'll need to look at terminal D13. This terminal should be grounded anytime the transmission is in Park or Neutral. The easiest way to rule out a park/neutral switch issue is to attach a jumper wire from this terminal to the negative battery post. At this point, making sure your starter relay is properly installed, try starting the engine again. If it starts with the key, that means you have a bad park/neutral switch.
Let us know what you find!
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Monday, October 14th, 2019 AT 8:24 PM