In extreme cold temperatures the engine will shut off and start in less then a second

Do you still have the cylinder 2 misfire? If so we need to chase that down first.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

If that is gone then we need to look at a fuel issue and spark plugs. You said you replaced the coils but did you replace the plugs as well? If not, we may want to do that.

Also, here is a guide on how to check fuel pressure when this is happening:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Let's run through this material and let us know what you find. Thanks

That wouldn't be the injectors. What it sounds like is a bad connection or a failing component on the PCM board that is temperature sensitive. Not a fun item to find. You can buy a spray called component cooler or just flip a can of the "canned air" you can get in stores upside down. Both then spray out a refrigerant that can freeze things when you spray them. With the engine running you start using the spray to cool down the various components until you find the one that is the issue. It won't be an easy item to find because it doesn't stay bad like a bad fuse or blown bulb.
A few things to look over first to try to narrow it down a bit.
Do you lose all power in the car or is it just the engine? When it happens does it just shut off for a second but then comes right back, or does the engine shut off and you have to turn the key to restart it? Anything else that happens, like the lights flicker or radio goes out or anything else?

Codes are only set if the fault is in a monitored system. There are many things on vehicles that are not monitored and won't set a code. That is what makes things like this hard to trace, they don't act up all the time. That is when you start looking for what it does and any common things that trigger it, something like, it only does it when it's cold and you are turning left and hit a bump, or it normally does it within 20 minutes of a cold start and after I go downhill. Things like that can help point the way. It might be possible to catch the glitch with a scan tool but as it sounds very random you would need to drive with it running all the time and then hope that the scan tools update rate is fast enough to capture it.
The problem is that unless you can find a common thread just finding the problem may take a long time as it could be just about anything. However there are things that are not likely to cause it because of the way the vehicle operates and is wired, Injectors fall into this category because of how they operate, it would take a control signal problem to cause them to drop out, not the injectors themselves. Same with the ignition coils.
What I might suggest would be to go and try the wiggle test on every wiring harness and connector under the hood and see if anything there cause a stumble. Then think about when you remember this issue starting, was it after an oil change, or there was a tune up or anything like that.